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MAC FAB Bomber build, TAKE 2

Can't under/over that I'm aware of. Do the RTR tires really suck that bad??? Maybe I need to build a large scale go fast rig for them and run something else on the Bomber.
 
But is it a tire issue? Or is it my rig's design? Do solid axle rigs do the same thing?
 
MAC FAB said:
But is it a tire issue? Or is it my rig's design? Do solid axle rigs do the same thing?
Click to expand...

My RTR Bomber did when I first got it. Under driving the rear helped, more grip helped more. To answer your earlier question, the RTR tires are pretty crappy.
 
That scenario is not exclusive to ifs/irs, but there could be a number of contributing factors. I wouldn't be too quick to blame the tires. Yes, the locked rear diff does always want to go straight, and the weight transfer while pointed uphill means that the rear may have more say-so than the front when it comes to where the car goes. How much castor are you running? Too little will cause pushing through turns/understeer. How about rear toe? Rear toe in helps with forward bite, but also causes pushing of the front end. If your belly or arms touched in that video, all bets are off.
 
Somewhere between 10 and 15 degrees on the caster. Yes, a little toe in out back, I can adjust that to 0. I'm wondering if putting the servos to run every which way on locked to unlocked diffs is going to be the easy solution.
 
MAC FAB said:
Anyone need to talk me out of a Savox 1230? Servo time.
Click to expand...
Have you tried a ProModeler 470 yet? They're really good. If that's not enough torque they recently came out with the 630. They are super high quality and made in Florida. as an added plus they are the quietest servos I've ever heard, and very water resistant (o rings everywhere), unlike the savox 1230 (which is noisy and not waterproof).

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the input, but I'm waiting for the fleabay discount again, going to try the Savox. As I read the specs, no BEC needed, yet still having a good torque rating. It can't be any louder than what I have now. I don't do water, way too much raw steel to rust. I've spent too much time around pre runners and race rigs, so I like the raw steel look.
I took her for a crawl/bash session this evening, after a little rain yesterday. Same terrain as my last time out and wow, with traction, it is amazing, so I like my Bomber again. To enforce what everone has stated before, the RTR KR2 tires are good for go fast rigs only and maybe sand. They are also fun on concrete, I can burn rubber, laying down black marks and squealing to boot! Therefore, I'll be watching for a set from the kit, soft whatever compound. The axle gremlins seem to be solved as well. Happy day, drove it like I stole it, no broken plastic! A real body is coming soon as well. Debating on doing a how to thread for that, instead of progress pics. Anyone interested in seeing something like that?
 
V1 of a body with shape. Continue or discard?

20190124_194604 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

20190124_194732 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

20190124_194646 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

Sides have about 3/8" crown as opposed to flat panels, see the last pic. If these get kept, a wheel well would get welded into the front area, at about 60 degrees if that makes sense. Rear portion would go to the spare, wrap around it and tie into the passenger side. Personally, I'm not feeling it, not enough real estate to work with to make it pop.
 
I really like the front, not so much the rear. Personally, I think I'd cut the rear down to the tube behind it...maybe tapering to a point.
 
Impressive work, but I think you might want to stick with the overall bomber look a little, that being very angular

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 
elRayRay said:
I really like the front, not so much the rear. Personally, I think I'd cut the rear down to the tube behind it...maybe tapering to a point.
Click to expand...

I agree with this statement. IMHO I think the front, and roof look really good, and the sides do too up until they hit the rear part of the cage where the flow seems off.
 
Rear add on is just a temporary piece, for my benefit I guess. That piece would go back to the spare, follow the contour of the spare, going say 1-1/2" towards the front as well. Picture a "hood" on the rear if you will, with an arc cut out for the tire. One piece rear when done. Doing it that way so that if it gets damaged, its an easier repair/replacement. I like the front as well, wheel wells will complement that nicely.
 
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