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MAC FAB Bomber build, TAKE 2

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ps9HAGdeURg" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
https://youtu.be/ps9HAGdeURg

HD version now.
 
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I wish I had rocks like that where I live [emoji14] crawls pretty well eh?

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I have something like a "mini" Johnson Valley, where they run KOH. Slippery and soft. First time trying to go slow. It bulls through stuff if you keep it barely rolling along. I still need to to change out the hardware sticking through the bottom of the chassis from socket head fasteners to pan heads or something so it doesn't hang up. I can only imagine what it would be like to drive with drag brake.... need the Castle link. Anyone in the Riverside area of So Cal interested in hitting my secret spot???
 
I love this build!! FIS rigs are so awesome.

Wish I had a spot like that here in NC...


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I have something like a "mini" Johnson Valley, where they run KOH. Slippery and soft. First time trying to go slow. It bulls through stuff if you keep it barely rolling along. I still need to to change out the hardware sticking through the bottom of the chassis from socket head fasteners to pan heads or something so it doesn't hang up. I can only imagine what it would be like to drive with drag brake.... need the Castle link. Anyone in the Riverside area of So Cal interested in hitting my secret spot???


I was just going to ask where in Socal that was. Shoot me a PM with the info. I'd love to check out the spot and the custom build
 
I see some MIP shafts in your future.

I wish there were, but sadly they're not. 1) Not enough angle in them to accommodate my wheel travel, they are 32* and I need almost 45*. 2) 6mm input at the diff, 5mm at the hub for Slash 4x uprights and C blocks. 3) Custom length axles.
She's fixed now, and that axle has full overlap now. I only have about 1/16" of plunge anyways, thats because of the steering geometry on the Slash stuff.
 
Latest redo is the HR spool. The aluminum piece that spools the diff has had the loc-tited set screws come loose 2 times now, requiring open heart surgery on my rig to get the tranny out to fix it. No more, a steel piece with the proper profile is now welded to the shaft. Need to upgrade the lay shaft pin deal and the tranny will go back in, then install the taller gearing for some speed runs.
 
Now the U joints (Slash 4x) off the center trans are shredded. May be time for a RPM tranny case so I can run burly axles down the center. RTR sounds better by the minute.... :evil:
 
20181008_185205 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

20181008_185242 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

Center shaft joint carnage. Larger piece is a twisted up E-Maxx, the smaller is a Slash 4x. Both sides are twisted. Gonna try the E-Maxx again, just need to keep it off the concrete and they should last a little while longer. With the taller gearing, I'm guessing its close to 20 mph. Surprisingly, with fixed, locked diffs I have some torque twist. ??????? I have to pick my battle, because of the battery location up front. Speed demon or crawler, the front shock tune has to be one or the other with the battery, and its a little too soft for the go fast mode right now, and its more fun to crawl than go fast with this for now. So I'm going to gear it back to ~15 mph crawler mode and run it that way for now. Shooting for another crawl session Saturday.......


20181006_083643 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

Lay shaft upgrade over the roll pin. Easy as pie and bulletproof. "thumbsup"
 
Being as that it rained most of the day so I couldn't drive, I built a dash. Well, 2 of them. First one had a bubble on the drivers side making the face taller like 1:1s have. Welder jacked that one up, service time, so I did a simple one. And a battery box, that sits loose in the chassis but wedges in place with the hold down. I can't get the battery out if it is mounted. 3s soft pack barely fits. Now it needs a driver and co dawg. I guess its never too late to learn how to sew and make dolls.... I mean drivers.

20181013_171809 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

20181013_172133 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

20181013_172304 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

20181013_173256 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

20181013_173200 by MAC FAB, on Flickr
 
Drove this afternoon, a lot of footage to go thru. My next video, provided the footage is good will be called "Four, Three, Two, One". I started 4wd, drove hard. Snapped the drivers side rear axle at the U joint, looks like I cut it with a knife. Now 3wd, ok. Drove a bit, popped the U out of the drivers front joint. No worries, I brought tools. Fixed that, sheared the other rear axle like the first. Now I am 2wd, fwd. Drove level or down hill, popped the same front U joint apart. So the remainder of my drive time was 1wd, pass side front driving. E Revo will now go out back, T Maxx up front, E Revo requires a re-invent, not the end of the world. If those break, it starts from scratch as something else. Sooooo frustrating.

20181014_165733_5894 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

20181014_164708_13864 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

20181014_162617_9433 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

20181014_160654_9363 by MAC FAB, on Flickr
 
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E Revo doesn't hold up. Broke a brand new one, ripped the e clips right through the axle yoke. I'm at a loss. Do I possible have too much motor? Is a brushed system going to be easier on the drive line? Anyone have a source for small metal u joints, maybe 1/4" drive so I can make my own? Help!!!!! Here is where it left me after it failed a few seconds before. Stuck in a rut. Go figure.

20181016_180944 by MAC FAB, on Flickr






4
 
Pretty sure you could contact fabricators on this forum and have custom axles made from titanium or steel?

People like JEC Racing or Locked Up RC?

Who was the guy making insane axle shafts so big that you need drilled out housings to use them?

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Steel is fine, just needs to be a u joint format, cvd doesn't have enough angle, then custom lengths. I may hack up some MIPs or similar axles. Then a BIG servo, mine sucks.
 
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