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Its a Berg THING, You wouldn't understand. By jcboof UPDATE!!!!!

Chris, I remember talking to you in Ohio about your tires and the butt joint method. I can't remember what yours looked like but I'm going to check out your build thread. I think I could likely reglue the tired if I wanted to but I'm not sure what direction I want to go yet.

I might try a memory foam setup up front too. I want to see if a softer yet larger foam will fill the tire better
 
It's getting closer......closer!!!!!! Good luck homie you better take this one. Wish I could be there to watch you win it"thumbsup" Oh and why don't you just try boss claws? I know they are a little short, but I think I'm gonna run em.

Later,
Farmer
 
my tires were made by c i and they have that bad bulge.i have some narrow khaos and they work great.i also would like to get rid of the bulge.

I think when Eddie first started building them he used an overlapping joint, then later started using the butt joint method. There is still a rounded sidewall transition but it does'nt seem to be as bad as the ones built with an overlapped joint. I am not saying for sure that this is the culprit, it just seems to me that it could be part of it.
 
Thanks Chris! It was good to finally meet you was well and you definitely did some great driving there!
 
Well decided to try something new out last week.

My Khaos tires were really beginning to get me down but I knew there had to be a way to make them a bit better.
I decided to narrow them about 3/8" and now all the problems have seemed to go away. I got them all mounted up on a new set of Mayhem Evos and they weigh about .3oz less than before.

The main problem I noticed with them is the fact that the sidewalks bulged out and seemed to grab everything. This would cause the truck to do some weird stuff. Now the weird stuff is gone and the tires seem to have just as much forward traction as before.
Going to take a little time to get used to the slower driving style needed for the pin tires but they should work well just about everywhere.

I also ditched the closed cell inner foams I was running. I really wish that Eddie hadn't done away with the old style inners because these new closed cells just aren't working like I had expected. They cause the tires to bounce way to much. I had another set of the old inners that I installed along with a medium tuning ring in the front and they work much better now.

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thats good to hear you got em to where ya like em. the new inner did the exact opposite for me. it took alot of the bounce out. i also put mine on 1in wheels to help crown it some. looking forward to seeing ya in a few weeks"thumbsup"
 
thats good to hear you got em to where ya like em. the new inner did the exact opposite for me. it took alot of the bounce out. i also put mine on 1in wheels to help crown it some. looking forward to seeing ya in a few weeks"thumbsup"

i had the same results that you did. it took most of the bounce out and gave much better tractions.
 
i had the same results that you did. it took most of the bounce out and gave much better tractions.

X3, but different strokes for different folks! Still digging all the tech in here. "thumbsup"

Looks like you did a great job narrowing the tires, I think wider wheels also help with what you were describing.
 
X3, but different strokes for different folks! Still digging all the tech in here. "thumbsup"

Looks like you did a great job narrowing the tires, I think wider wheels also help with what you were describing.


I know a lot of people were having great luck with the closed cell inners, but I guess I just didn't really feel a huge positive change with them.
I was just really used to the feel of my old Novas which were always very consistent for me, but then again, I've got a TON of time on Sedonas which are a totally different beast than the pin tires.

The narrowing job was a bit easier than I thought. I took out the center section of pins and used some MuchMore brand tire glue to tack the sections together in a few spots then used the IC2000 to fill the gaps and finish the joint. I then put a thin bead of glue on the inside of the carcass to seal up any imperfections and then sanded them down smooth. The glue joint is nice and flexible and holds very well.



I've got a set of Axial AX10 rear lockouts I'm getting ready to install on my rear axles, but first I have to send the tubes down to Kevin in Missouri to work his magic on them.

Currently my weight bias is pretty drastic. The balance point of the truck is about a 1/2" in front of the skid. That is with 6oz of bias in each front wheel. Lightening the rear with create even more bias which I'm not sure is needed. I've always built my trucks to balance at the front of the skid. I can try to drop some weight out of the front and see where my total weight falls.

My truck currently weighs in at 5lbs 12oz RTR and I can drop about 2oz in the rear which is easily done by getting rid of the stock C's, knuckles and lockout along with turning down the outer diameter. Then I can take another 2oz out of the front of the truck to get the same weight bias as before, but I might even go further and take most of the weight in my wheels and see where my weight bias sits. I did a little testing by adding weight to the rear and if I add 4oz to the rear, the truck balances out at the front link mounting point.

So.... In theory, I can lose a total of 8oz out of my truck and still maintain proper weight bias and balance point. That would put me at 5 1/4lbs. And this weight is with my heavy sedonas on it weighing in at 7.1oz for the rears. If I switch to boss claws, I would be down around 5.5oz per wheel/tire combo which could effectively cut down a total of 6oz MORE off the weight of the truck and I'd be just under 5lbs!

Hmmmmm........ With all the hype of running light, does it work???? Don't know...... Is it better??? Don't know...... Should I try it????? Don't know......

I should really try to focus on one thing at a time, but now that I have the truck figured out at this weight setup, it would be very easy for me to switch back if I decide that the lightweight thing is not for me.
There have been lots of guys lately that have for years driven heavier trucks, but lately have shaved a TON of weight off their trucks with great results. I've never seen a 4lb truck do really well at a comp, I've never seen a 5lb berg do well at a local comp. But I know there are light trucks out there kicking but all over.

Should I try it??;-)
 
Why not? Like you said... you can always load the weight back on.

My Berg has always been in the 5lbs 7oz area and it feels great there. When I changed wheels, tires, and a couple of other things, it brought the weight down to a surprising 4lbs 11oz.

There really is a noticable bifference for the better in some regaurds. Enough that I'm leaving it that way for a while. And you nailed it when you said that once you get it light, you can add weight where YOU need it. I added some weight to the knuckles and now the front bias is great.
 
Quick update:

Narrowed pin are REALLY working well!! Huge improvement IMO!!

Now. Just gotta figure out what I grenaded in my front gearcase a few weekends ago!! Lol!!
 
Tore the front axle down tonight and found a completely stripped out 3rd gear and a chunked out 4th.

The 3rd gear was a Mann gear and seemed to hold up well until the breakdown....

NEVER had a problem with my CKRC 3rds. Good thing I bought a few when they were selling out of them! :mrgreen:

Now, where can I find a new 4th gear??:???:
 
Hey Jesse, I just saw this. you still need a 4th gear?



:lmao:I also just saw whats under your name:mrgreen::flipoff::mrgreen:

I ordered two full sets if gears from JPH racing the other day. Lockers and all gears for 65 shipped! Can't beat that!

I have no clue what you are talking about on the other subject.:mrgreen:
 
Splendid, splendid indeed:mrgreen: I'm gonna hold you to it now F_CKER:flipoff: Plus I need that Folly pack!!! Can't wait to crawl with ya brother8)

Later,
Farmer
 
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