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Gspeed/TGH/Enduro build for class 3

This reminds me of Monster JAM trucks. They click a toggle switch left or right for the rear steer. Very cool.

So if you don't need the rear steer you don't touch the trim switch and the rear wheels stay straight?

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

That's right, it just stays straight until I click the switch one way or the other.
 
This sounds like fun! Any durability issues with the rear? Does the rear stay straight and centered when you're not using it?

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

No issues so far. You need to have a good servo back there or it could move with a load on the wheels but in my experience it seems like it certainly doesn't require any more servo than the front. I've yet to have the rear wheels steer when I didn't do it with the transmitter and the servo is always nice and cool.
 
Update: Finally got this one to a competition over the weekend. I'm very happy with how it worked out. The courses were pretty tough but the truck worked *really* well and I was able to win class 3 against some good competition. All the hours of testing, tuning, tweaking, and learning how to use the rear steer paid off!

I don't really have any great pics from the comp unfortunately, but here's the first gate on one of the courses...

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Update with current state pictured below...

I have discovered the usefulness of wheel speed, and the old motors I've tried in this truck just weren't enough. I had a Castle Slate 2280kv sitting around and threw it in to try it, and I'm pleasantly surprised how well it works in this truck. Low speed control is good, and it has just enough wheel speed to get up things that are slick and can't be crawled. Prior to the first comp with this one I swapped in some 370TBL servos and they are absolutely superb.

I had also previously moved some electronics around in an effort to get the CoG lower...its still just a bit too high but manageable. I'm thinking about reworking the body for next year and getting rid of the tube bed and roll bar to get the CoG down more. Also considering making some custom adapter plates for the front motor mount to get the motor lower to help with that CoG well.

Oh, and I have now replaced most of the links with 4mm titanium builders links from The Crawl Space. Very good stuff for the money, just hard to catch them in all the sizes in stock.

Went to my second comp the other day with this one, which netted a second place finish in class 3. Needs more driver tuning, LOL. I made a couple mistakes and it cost me, but still very happy with this truck's performance. And it's still my favorite crawler to drive by far, its just so fun.

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Aloha Honeyman here this build is equally amazing!!! the build im doing is also 4WS as is my next TRX4 project I might need some tips on the links but I think I understand the mechanics of it!!! its going to be a little harder on the trx4 but for the gspeed build I got all the parts to put front and Rear servos either on axle or on rail so ill be in touch about that!!!
my email is omhoney108@gmail.com I can send you pics on here of my build so I don't mess your thread with a bunch of parts and build pictures... BUZZZZZ.....
 
LOVE this build. All of the time you have spent testing, tuning and tweaking is evident in the pics, these posts and the awesome finishes at comps. This rig seems to defy form follows function, It seems to have both in equal measures. Awesome job!
 
Aloha Honeyman here this build is equally amazing!!! the build im doing is also 4WS as is my next TRX4 project I might need some tips on the links but I think I understand the mechanics of it!!! its going to be a little harder on the trx4 but for the gspeed build I got all the parts to put front and Rear servos either on axle or on rail so ill be in touch about that!!!
my email is omhoney108@gmail.com I can send you pics on here of my build so I don't mess your thread with a bunch of parts and build pictures... BUZZZZZ.....

Thanks! Regarding axle or chassis mounted servos, it depends on what you're going for. If scale competition with scale points (SORRCA) are in the plan, I'd definitely go chassis mounted up front as its worth 5 points. For the rear, going chassis mounted only gets 2 points and IMHO its not worth doing. I've played around with chassis mounted in the rear and it can act kinda funky, I prefer axle mounted for the rear axle for sure. Just keep in mind, you can't do a four link with chassis mounted servo (severe bumpsteer). You typically would do a three link with chassis mounted, four link for axle mounted.

You could make a thread and get input there as well, but message me if you want.
 
LOVE this build. All of the time you have spent testing, tuning and tweaking is evident in the pics, these posts and the awesome finishes at comps. This rig seems to defy form follows function, It seems to have both in equal measures. Awesome job!

Thank you!

Since I like to tinker I'm planning another class 3 build right now because I want to try some ideas I have, but I don't want to mess with this one...it's 'good enough' to leave alone for a while!
 
Thanks! Regarding axle or chassis mounted servos, it depends on what you're going for. If scale competition with scale points (SORRCA) are in the plan, I'd definitely go chassis mounted up front as its worth 5 points. For the rear, going chassis mounted only gets 2 points and IMHO its not worth doing. I've played around with chassis mounted in the rear and it can act kinda funky, I prefer axle mounted for the rear axle for sure. Just keep in mind, you can't do a four link with chassis mounted servo (severe bumpsteer). You typically would do a three link with chassis mounted, four link for axle mounted.

You could make a thread and get input there as well, but message me if you want.

I always heard you get severe bump steer, but i picked up a Carisma SCA-1e with 4 link and chassis mounted servo and not noticing any bump steer.
 
I'm using KNK body post mounts for the front, and a single mount at the rear of the cab that I made. Originally I designed and printed sliders that the cab could attach to with screws but I didn't like having to deal with the screws in order to remove the cab. I think gspeed might have some body mount sliders available for certain bodies now.

For my TF2 the trick is to use long grub screws this way you just pull the body apart a little and move them over the grub screws and then body stays on without having to mess taking screws out.
 
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