Inside a sleeper SCX10 Rubicon

[allanon1965]

well I only have one vp housing and that is cause I didnt read close enough when i was buying them for my wraith..so i can try two new plastic housings or buy another vp one...decisions decisions...i just like to be able to figure out what exactly is causing the noise...thats the retired auto technician coming out in me again lol

then again, I could run them until they blow and replace with new HD gears in the vp housings...

 

[6sharky9]

well I only have one vp housing and that is cause I didnt read close enough when i was buying them for my wraith..so i can try two new plastic housings or buy another vp one...decisions decisions...i just like to be able to figure out what exactly is causing the noise...thats the retired auto technician coming out in me again lol

then again, I could run them until they blow and replace with new HD gears in the vp housings...

Do a thread asking about it..im sure some have used what you are and maybe found a trick with something..I have no VP housing experience so I really cant say..But if the stock diff and gears work with it without any mods then it can only be a shim problem or bad gears or something.

I would imagine VP housing to be of good quality so im not sure really..But if you do go back to stock housing check out beef tubes..im sure someone makes them for the stock wraith housings..theirs a vendor on here that makes them.

 

[cm4x4nut]

In all honesty, I like this thread.

Most of the other threads on here (mine included don't worry) are all pretty much the same thing and they all read pretty much the same way.

This is difeerent, it may be different for no other reason than to be different, but it makes for something different to read about.....Sharky, I say go for it and thanks for something different to read

 

[6sharky9]

In all honesty, I like this thread.

Most of the other threads on here (mine included don't worry) are all pretty much the same thing and they all read pretty much the same way.

This is difeerent, it may be different for no other reason than to be different, but it makes for something different to read about.....Sharky, I say go for it and thanks for something different to read

Thanks man..appreciate it.

 

[mikesmyth11]

now what would really work is if you tried to make your scx10 look like a nylint from radio shack, or even make it look retro RC, REAL primitive, use an old MHZ radio with a huuuuge long wire tube, you would just rake in the dough at the illegal betting rings going on at the g6 events n such.

no anyway really cool idea. its always nice when you dont flaunt your stuff and end up impressing people anyway. the scx10 does that in RTR or custom form anyway!

 

[6sharky9]

now what would really work is if you tried to make your scx10 look like a nylint from radio shack, or even make it look retro RC, REAL primitive, use an old MHZ radio with a huuuuge long wire tube, you would just rake in the dough at the illegal betting rings going on at the g6 events n such.

no anyway really cool idea. its always nice when you dont flaunt your stuff and end up impressing people anyway. the scx10 does that in RTR or custom form anyway!

lol @ illegal betting at g6 events..I got 20 on the scx10 for the win..8)

 

[Johnnysplits]

Between this and the other threads, I'm inspired to start one called..."If you don't have at least $1000 in your rig, it ain't shit! " hahahaha

 

[6sharky9]

Between this and the other threads, I'm inspired to start one called..."If you don't have at least $1000 in your rig, it ain't shit! " hahahaha

lol..go for it."thumbsup"

 

[OH6HEMI]

Between this and the other threads, I'm inspired to start one called..."If you don't have at least $1000 in your rig, it ain't shit! " hahahaha

Lmao

 

[monkeyracer]

Even though the concept is moot, here are some real sleeper mods:

Front axle:
Beef Tubes, Overdrive gears, CVDs, Stronger steering link (the GPM above is fine), no slop locker

Rear axle:
HD gears, no slop locker

Suspension:
Pen spring inside the shock body under the piston to reduce ride height and control down travel.
Delrin or Aluminum upper links (again, no one cares that you got new links) if you can drill out the plastic links, you can already make your own delrin links.

Wheels:
Throw some weight in there, but no need to go crazy.

Tires:
Stock trepadors or ripsaws are fine and fit the sleeper look.

Transmission:
Metal gears/steel outputs
Play around with spur/pinion combo with the motor you get to find what you like
Flip/mirror trans to get the motor to point forward (can't do this on some bodies...)

Electronics:
Kit versions don't come with them, so there's nothing to hide. Get the good stuff. At least 250 oz-in servo, Sidewinder/Mamba/BRXL/FXR ESC, 35-55T Crawler motor, etc. No need to re-sticker a sealed can motor (you probably wouldn't be able to do it clean enough anyway, so no need trying to waste your time.)

Move the battery to the front (this is a stock option on the newer kits with instructions on what parts you will need), and go 3S LiPo (only if you go to a different ESC capable of 3S).

Everything above is pretty low-key, but actually adds performance. If all you want is to trick your friends, I refer back to the link I posted previously about the magic kit you can buy. There's gotta be like 100 tricks you can show them.

You don't need to drop a bunch of money to have fun. I've always been into budget-minded mods, and love to see the innovation that breeds. I think sharky's intention was in the right place (innovation maybe?), but maybe the message could have been delivered differently.
Less "hey you can fool everyone into thinking you have a stock rig that performs better than stock, making people think you are actually the cause of the increase, or that it is some magic rig" and more "simple unseen modifications to retain the stock look" would have been my suggested approach.

 

[gottorque]

Even though the concept is moot, here are some real sleeper mods:

Front axle:
Beef Tubes, Overdrive gears, CVDs, Stronger steering link (the GPM above is fine), no slop locker

Rear axle:
HD gears, no slop locker

Suspension:
Pen spring inside the shock body under the piston to reduce ride height and control down travel.
Delrin or Aluminum upper links (again, no one cares that you got new links) if you can drill out the plastic links, you can already make your own delrin links.

Wheels:
Throw some weight in there, but no need to go crazy.

Tires:
Stock trepadors or ripsaws are fine and fit the sleeper look.

Transmission:
Metal gears/steel outputs
Play around with spur/pinion combo with the motor you get to find what you like
Flip/mirror trans to get the motor to point forward (can't do this on some bodies...)

Electronics:
Kit versions don't come with them, so there's nothing to hide. Get the good stuff. At least 250 oz-in servo, Sidewinder/Mamba/BRXL/FXR ESC, 35-55T Crawler motor, etc. No need to re-sticker a sealed can motor (you probably wouldn't be able to do it clean enough anyway, so no need trying to waste your time.)

Move the battery to the front (this is a stock option on the newer kits with instructions on what parts you will need), and go 3S LiPo (only if you go to a different ESC capable of 3S).

Everything above is pretty low-key, but actually adds performance. If all you want is to trick your friends, I refer back to the link I posted previously about the magic kit you can buy. There's gotta be like 100 tricks you can show them.

You don't need to drop a bunch of money to have fun. I've always been into budget-minded mods, and love to see the innovation that breeds. I think sharky's intention was in the right place (innovation maybe?), but maybe the message could have been delivered differently.
Less "hey you can fool everyone into thinking you have a stock rig that performs better than stock, making people think you are actually the cause of the increase, or that it is some magic rig" and more "simple unseen modifications to retain the stock look" would have been my suggested approach.

All fine and dandy, but 6sharky9 believes a 3s lipo will utterly destroy a truck.



Sent from a rock

 

[pickled]

Hey 6sharky9 I just had this servo arrive in the post

its a Bluebird BMS 810MG+HS torque servo

 

[pigblanket]

All fine and dandy, but 6sharky9 believes a 3s lipo will utterly destroy a truck.



Sent from a rock

With great power there must also come — great responsibility! "thumbsup"

 

[6sharky9]

Even though the concept is moot, here are some real sleeper mods:

Front axle:
Beef Tubes, Overdrive gears, CVDs, Stronger steering link (the GPM above is fine), no slop locker

Rear axle:
HD gears, no slop locker

Suspension:
Pen spring inside the shock body under the piston to reduce ride height and control down travel.
Delrin or Aluminum upper links (again, no one cares that you got new links) if you can drill out the plastic links, you can already make your own delrin links.

Wheels:
Throw some weight in there, but no need to go crazy.

Tires:
Stock trepadors or ripsaws are fine and fit the sleeper look.

Transmission:
Metal gears/steel outputs
Play around with spur/pinion combo with the motor you get to find what you like
Flip/mirror trans to get the motor to point forward (can't do this on some bodies...)

Electronics:
Kit versions don't come with them, so there's nothing to hide. Get the good stuff. At least 250 oz-in servo, Sidewinder/Mamba/BRXL/FXR ESC, 35-55T Crawler motor, etc. No need to re-sticker a sealed can motor (you probably wouldn't be able to do it clean enough anyway, so no need trying to waste your time.)

Move the battery to the front (this is a stock option on the newer kits with instructions on what parts you will need), and go 3S LiPo (only if you go to a different ESC capable of 3S).

Everything above is pretty low-key, but actually adds performance. If all you want is to trick your friends, I refer back to the link I posted previously about the magic kit you can buy. There's gotta be like 100 tricks you can show them.

You don't need to drop a bunch of money to have fun. I've always been into budget-minded mods, and love to see the innovation that breeds. I think sharky's intention was in the right place (innovation maybe?), but maybe the message could have been delivered differently.
Less "hey you can fool everyone into thinking you have a stock rig that performs better than stock, making people think you are actually the cause of the increase, or that it is some magic rig" and more "simple unseen modifications to retain the stock look" would have been my suggested approach.

Appreciate your opinion again...You should start your own thread and build one."thumbsup"

you can call it..."my almost sleeper themed build thread"

 

[6sharky9]

All fine and dandy, but 6sharky9 believes a 3s lipo will utterly destroy a truck.



Sent from a rock

Not really..i do believe though more power makes things less reliable unless you upgrade..Appreciate your view though"thumbsup"

 

[6sharky9]

With great power there must also come — great responsibility! "thumbsup"

And more money"thumbsup"

 

[redsawacs]

Yaawwwwwnnnnnnn!!!

 

[pigblanket]

And more money"thumbsup"

$32 for upgraded drive shafts and common sense is all you really need. I think we all know what you are lacking.

 

[6sharky9]

$32 for upgraded drive shafts and common sense is all you really need. I think we all know what you are lacking.

Since when did it only become drive shafts?

What happen to metal trans gears and the HD axle gears and a 32P spur and pinion and beef tubes and all these other things to handle the added power reliably most suggest.????.

You can use stock driveshaft and your slipper clutch if all you need is common sense with using more power...I suppose you can install a 454 and only use half throttle so you don't break stuff in your truck that was designed to be sufficient with less power...Makes sense though...More so if you do upgrade to use it all but you get the point...I think.

I use every bit of my 2s power with a locked down slipper and going into 5 months now still with a stock un modded driveshaft...So yea..maybe I have no common sense to push its limits so I can spend more money when I don't need to to enjoy the truck...Maybe one day if I compete ill make you guys proud and use a 3s and buy all this fancy stuff I might need but for now I nor many people don't need it to enjoy our rigs.

If you can accept that then this forum will be a much better place."thumbsup"

Did I mention even with almost one pound of weight added to the rotating assembly; still hasnt broken the stock drive shafts.8)

Appreciate your insulting opinion though"thumbsup"

 

[hpiguy]

I've been running 3s and even 4s on stock (slugged with all thread and epoxy) plastic Axial shafts behind a HH 35T torquemaster pro on a comp rig for a couple months now with no issues. I kinda just want to know how long they last at this point. More power doesn't mean you have to run out and immediately upgrade. As mentioned above, it all comes down to the driver, and common sense.

When they do let go, then I'll go MIP.