Inside a sleeper SCX10 Rubicon

[6sharky9]

Just a brief step by step for some fun.

Consider an RTR Honcho or a rubicon or even a dingo you can do these things to..Ive searched around and haven't seen any builds or write ups on
this before so thought it would be fun as ive applied this to my Rubicon and you too can to your RTR

Just imagine you have what appears to be a box stock RTR but not really being the case,,Some of this are common upgrades that you cant normally see no matter how you build your rig but some of it may not have been considered before.

Links:
One of these are actually stock and the other quite a bit stronger but can you tell which one is which?...If you guessed the lower link you would've been correct.

Heres proof one is stronger than the other.

Ill say there is still weak points at the very end as I couldn't drill far end to end as the drill bit would go through the link...Not as good as aftermarket but all I could think off to make them stronger...The center to about the last 1/4 of each end is extremely solid.

Steering links:
GPM makes a steering kit that's an exact replica of the stock steering link.
I think they now offer them in black as well.

Im guessing you can paint it flat black and get away with the cover up for a bit until you start seeing shiny aluminum through the scratched up paint.

Some common un seen upgrades:
1.) motor Pinion (keeping the diff cover on to hide any change)
2.) Ring and Pinion gear change front and rear.
3.) The free driveshaft mod.
4.) Shock tuning using stock springs.(just go with a lighter weight oil and adjust preload for performance gains.
5.) Weights inside the RTR wheels/tires

Now for some fun electronics games.

Those who maybe have a Holmes Hobbies BR-XL can install the guts into a stock AE2 ESC as it uses the same exact case..The only difference will be the motor wire ends and you will not have an on off switch unless you chose to incorporate one on to for a greater degree of hiding the added performance.

SERVO:
Here is a hitec 645MG servo and a stock AE3 servo..They are as they appear in this first pic.

So my efforts brought me to wanting to use the stock AE3 front cover on a more powerful/reliable Servo and that's what I did...To do this will require a small amount of grinding to the AE3 cover inside but otherwise a direct fit.

You need to grind the little bosses inside the AE3 cover as they are thicker and will not allow the cover to fit flush..The cover on the top is the hitec and the bottom the AE3

Here you can see the 2 servos I used to make the swap..One on the right is the AE3.

Once you get the cover to fit properly just simply bolt it on using the stock hitec bolts and you now have a better servo appearing to be a stock one.

MOTOR:
A simple rc4wd or other brand 35T sealed can motor with an axial motor sticker installed on it to appear as a stock 27T.

Well this must be one of the fastest threads ive ever done but it was a fun one..:lmao:

Hope some enjoyed8)

Id show a pic of the rubicon now but not much to see anyway...We all know what a stock rubicon looks like8)

 

[gottorque]

why go through the trouble of hiding aftermarket parts? I dont understand..

 

[6sharky9]

why go through the trouble of hiding aftermarket parts? I dont understand..

It just fits into a sleeper theme..That would be a vehicle that gives no indications to its added performance and maintains a low profile looks wise.

Just thought it would be something fun to do for myself.

 

[Johnnysplits]

Good question. There's no point to it unless your trying to sucker people into doing a head to head comp for money..."stock" against a fully modded rig. And of course the guy with the modded rig will take the bet after he stops laughing.

 

[Johnnysplits]

Just thought it would be something fun to do for myself.

That's the best reason to do it

 

[KillerBlackbird]

Are you glueing the link back together with the metal rod in there or is it just "slid" back together?

I'm still trying to wrap my head around a sleeper crawler unless we're street racing these on Friday nights with no front driveshafts.

 

[6sharky9]

Are you glueing the link back together with the metal rod in there or is it just "slid" back together?

I'm still trying to wrap my head around a sleeper crawler unless we're street racing these on Friday nights with no front driveshafts.

Yes...I put a dab of JB weld on the ends of the rod...slid one end on then slid the other on and had some Loctite super glue on the ends of the cuts..scuffed up the glue after it dried so it didn't have a shiny gloss to it.

Turned out pretty good I think..you have to have somewhat of a clean cut for it to not be so noticeable..I had to press hard to lose any gaps on mine...or you could fill in gaps with jb weld or something and sand it down...maybe put a little flat black paint on the repair.

Not even close to aftermarket links but that was all I could come up with to make them stronger at least in the centers...The ends are still weak so it would still have some flex..Considering videos you can see with stock links not doing too bad, its maybe not a worthwhile mod but I did it just because I could..lol

If I had a smaller diameter rod I could've maybe gone end to end to strengthen it more...You need good straight links and a drill press to get it perfectly straight...I went through a few sets before I got it right drilling by hand.

 

[6sharky9]

I'm still trying to wrap my head around a sleeper crawler unless we're street racing these on Friday nights with no front driveshafts.

Its not I guess something I should expect most to understand..

Its more a deceiving type thing...Like comparing a hot rod Camaro to say a 4 door family car that surprisingly may have beaten that Camaro...Just unexpected.

I wouldn't go as far as saying if you built a truck like this its competition ready and can beat anything out there but it is more performance than what an actual stock truck would be and maybe one could have some fun with friends having them scratching their heads as to how it may have done better than one might expect from an actual stock truck.

Again it was just for fun for me and something I haven't personally seen done before for a trail truck.

A sleeper doesn't always have to be about straight line performance...If you can make a trail truck crawl better or perform better on a trail without showing the mods and making one think its stock then that can be considered a sleeper as well.

 

[realsickclown]

seems like a lot of extra work

 

[6sharky9]

seems like a lot of extra work

No doubt..but no one else was going to do it for me so if I wanted it I had to work for it.8)

In all honesty the links were the biggest pain in the rear to get done...The rest wasn't so bad.

 

[hpiguy]

That's a lot of work on that servo, to still end up with a shit servo in the end.

 

[6sharky9]

That's a lot of work on that servo, to still end up with a shit servo in the end.

Yea...The 645mg makes more power and has bearings..i agree.

10-15 minutes wasn't too bad to get what I was after.

 

[monkeyracer]

I'm going to have to agree with everyone. This is a useless thread. There are much better sleeper mods to do that actually increase performance.

The upper links can be swapped to axial aluminum links. It's still an OEM piece, and really no one cares what you did to your upper links since everyone knows the stock are spaghetti.

For the servo, who are you trying to fool? The 645 is a weak servo still, and I'd still laugh at someone with an undisguised 645 trying to be serious about being a "sleeper" rig. There are some more powerful servos that can be de-stickered to keep the sleeper look.

The problem with the "deceiving" part of the sleeper, is it only works once. When you "compete" against someone thinking you have a stock rig, then they find out it isn't, you are likely to get a fist to the face for being such a jack@$$ for lying about your rig in the first place.

The guys that have been doing this long enough would be able to spot a "sleeper" like this just by the way it drives. And it wouldn't matter, since even a budget, well-set-up rig could easily out-perform this type of rig.
So you are really only taking advantage of the poor newbies with their box-stock rigs.

A better thread would be one about how to make simple, inexpensive changes to make these perform a little better (except there are lots of threads about that...)

 

[6sharky9]

I'm going to have to agree with everyone. This is a useless thread. There are much better sleeper mods to do that actually increase performance.

The upper links can be swapped to axial aluminum links. It's still an OEM piece, and really no one cares what you did to your upper links since everyone knows the stock are spaghetti.

For the servo, who are you trying to fool? The 645 is a weak servo still, and I'd still laugh at someone with an undisguised 645 trying to be serious about being a "sleeper" rig. There are some more powerful servos that can be de-stickered to keep the sleeper look.

The problem with the "deceiving" part of the sleeper, is it only works once. When you "compete" against someone thinking you have a stock rig, then they find out it isn't, you are likely to get a fist to the face for being such a jack@$$ for lying about your rig in the first place.

The guys that have been doing this long enough would be able to spot a "sleeper" like this just by the way it drives. And it wouldn't matter, since even a budget, well-set-up rig could easily out-perform this type of rig.
So you are really only taking advantage of the poor newbies with their box-stock rigs.

A better thread would be one about how to make simple, inexpensive changes to make these perform a little better (except there are lots of threads about that...)

Yea...I didn't chose a 7955 to do the mod with as I don't have one...So sorry the servo isn't up to standards for you. Although it is a better than stock servo...More power..more speed and stronger gears actually...The center gear has a much larger bottom pinion to it than the stock one..Everything else actually looks the same however ..never suggested this is the only servo you may can do this mod with...Im sure it would work on my 985mg as well or even other servos with a black case..A blue case or some other color wouldn't fit the theme...The cover is quite a unique one to the AS3 as well...so just a sticker change would be a lesser attempt in my opinion

Ive already covered a tips and tricks thread but didn't figure this theme applied to seeing things that's been done..wouldn't fit the theme in my opinion.and I think I did mention this for an RTR...im fully aware a kit gets better links in general.

I wouldn't think of it as being an jackazz when your with friends..If you entered a competition and claimed it was stock then you have some moral issues by cheating if those areas weren't allowed to be changed...But as I said it was something I think can be fun..I don't expect everyone to see it for what it is as ive said...Thanks for your opinion.

And to not think performance would be enhanced with the changes mentioned I really don't get...But to eaches own.

 

[monkeyracer]

Just a lot of work to fool your friends... Not worth the time. You could get something like this to do a better job...

 

[6sharky9]

Just a lot of work to fool your friends... Not worth the time. You could get something like this to do a better job...

Well im not really trying to fool anyone..I don't have a group I can hang out with a run the truck...I most certainly wouldn't post up the build if I cared about fooling anyone..I could just post a thraed and say heres my stock rubicon and left it alone...but if I said I have better than stock performance but didn't show how I did it no one would believe it would they?

Any mods you can clearly see wouldn't be much of a sleeper concept..its like a car pulling into the local hang out with stock wheels but a big blower sticking out the hood.

 

[monkeyracer]

I understand exactly what you are trying to do with this thread. You are trying to post mods that can help retain the stock look while actually improving (slightly) performance.
This would only apply to those wanting to "trick their friends". How many people on this forum are looking to do that?
It would be a much better use of their time to actually put some quality upgrades, or inexpensive mods into the rig.

I think most groups of guys that run together are going to be more impressed with something that actually works well. Tuned and tested, and well set-up, whether if it is a budget rig or a top-dollar rig.

 

[6sharky9]

I understand exactly what you are trying to do with this thread. You are trying to post mods that can help retain the stock look while actually improving (slightly) performance.
This would only apply to those wanting to "trick their friends". How many people on this forum are looking to do that?
It would be a much better use of their time to actually put some quality upgrades, or inexpensive mods into the rig.

I think most groups of guys that run together are going to be more impressed with something that actually works well. Tuned and tested, and well set-up, whether if it is a budget rig or a top-dollar rig.

It was just something fun man...Maybe some one else would think so and maybe not.

Would it be better to just have said I modded my stock RTR with a

Holmes Hobbies BR-XL esc
RC4wd 35T motor and a 16T motor pinion
Hitec 645 servo
GPM aftermarket steering links
Stock suspension links (reinforced for added strength)
Free driveshaft mod
Changed the rear gears to 43/13
Added weights to the stock wheels
Changed the oil in the shocks and tuned it as well as did some piston work to improve performance

Hardly a comp rig but, I think more than a slight improvement in performance...the fun part is you cant see it by looking at.

You don't have to like it and I can respect that..appreciate your opinion though

 

[allanon1965]

I think its a nice thread, are there any mods to be done to the stock axle housings? I have a 1.9 wraith I am building and both stock scx10 diffs are making a repetitive grinding noise that comes and goes. I am thinking the housings are warped because when I put the internals into a vp housing I have, they turn butter smooth and no noise, put them into the stock plastic housings and the noise returns.

any ideas how to fix this other than new plastic housings or buying another vp housing?

 

[6sharky9]

I think its a nice thread, are there any mods to be done to the stock axle housings? I have a 1.9 wraith I am building and both stock scx10 diffs are making a repetitive grinding noise that comes and goes. I am thinking the housings are warped because when I put the internals into a vp housing I have, they turn butter smooth and no noise, put them into the stock plastic housings and the noise returns.

any ideas how to fix this other than new plastic housings or buying another vp housing?

You can improve strength a lot with Beef tubes...Ive seen a truss or two add strength as well..or at least it appears it would..Id stay away from the cheap plastic ones though if you get a truss to help strength. ..If its warped though its not really a lot of money to buy new housings....But if you already have vp housings and it works why worry about it.??..lol

Possibly a shimming issue or not enough grease?

Ive shimmed mine and they are as quiet/smooth as can be...If you push hard on the pinion and turn it ,it sounds like crap..If you pull on it hard it sounds like crap..If you push in or pull out just enough the gear gets as smooth as a babys behind..you just need the proper shim/shims behind the pinion to get it right.