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House’s TiDe Fighter

I don’t have enough of the XR10’s to weigh unfortunately,
but I am not plannng on using them anyway. I know this
probably doesn’t make a damn but of difference, but here
are the results:
 

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I must say, I am starting to feel good about this car.
I know I am slower than molasses but hopefully the
time I spend on the details show... I worked on the steering
a bit more and I was able to get enough angle to make me
happy without completely redesigning it. I measured and
measured, cut, sanded, bent, adjusted, adjusted, and adjusted
some more. This is the first car I have ever had that the
steering is actually “perfect”. By that, I mean the wheels are
both straight with all of the steering trims set at 0, and both
left and right endpoints are at 137/140 hitting the steering
stops with no servo whine. I know this doesn’t really mean
anything and most people don’t give a shït, but I like it. 8)
 

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Here she is at fighting weight...
(With steel balls in 6/8 shock ends) ;-)
 

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Damn, that light!

I had the same links and was very happy to go back to a single bend link. They transition the chassis to tires much better.
 
Yep, 4lbs 10.4oz with the loaded dice, loaded
knuckles, brass skid, and battery. Just about
perfect I think. I can keep it like this for slick
stuff and throw on the other weights for the
sticky stuff...
And just to verify my scale, 1.7oz as advertised."thumbsup"
 

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Man it would sure be a lot easier if Santa’s Elves would have built it...
How many of us would like to see one of these under the tree?!
 

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Re: House’s Alumi-Fighter Bounty Hunter

I'll have to settle for new Holmes Hobbies Puller team motors.

Sent from my SM-J737V using Tapatalk
 
On order. "thumbsup"

The drag link and tie rod reminded me how much I hate threading titanium rod.

Sorry mang, I would have done the single bends if I knew. Usually its one of those things I try to tell people about and they look at me cross eyed because they dont understand why they would want less clearance....

Do you want them 1/4 longer than standard too? Maybe 1/8" longer just to be safe and not go over?
 
All good, as you know, I have had this chassis for quite a while!
Nobody even noticed there is no star on the side since I didn't want it too flashy! :mrgreen:

Yeah let's go 1/8", that should leave me plenty of adjustment and not too many threads showing. Thanks Erik! "thumbsup"
 
No threads showing if you use jato length ends and drill them out for the link to fit into. Keeps the whole end stronger too.
 
That is a good idea Trashy, but for as much time as I have into these tapered
ends (stupid I know), I am going to use them come hell or high water!
Besides, I just saw two Jato ends die in Wendover!

376460d1540693683-c70b88d2-0ab3-4568-be18-747bd5681ff9.jpg
 
Jato ends break in the solid plastic area between the end of the link and the ball. Drilling them deeper eliminates that area and adds shoulder strength. I don't get as fancy as you, I use a dremel to taper the rod ends. :lol: I only taper modified jatos since i break revo either around the threads or around the ball.

I hope I'm wrong for your sake but I don't have high Hope's for the tapered revo ends.
 
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I am sure Nabil is reading this laughing.
All this rod end swap bs to go to aluminum balls and you are using Stainless screws?!
Aluminum hardware and stripped heads scare the crap out of me still, sorry man.
 
I am sure Nabil is reading this laughing.
All this rod end swap bs to go to aluminum balls and you are using Stainless screws?!
Aluminum hardware and stripped heads scare the crap out of me still, sorry man.

Black oxide is lighter and stronger than stainless. Call it a non bling middle ground. :lol:
 
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