House’s TiDe Fighter

[Nabil]

Yeah you are right, they don’t compress all the way. I run a 3mm spacer between the cup and rod end. Also make sure the rodend is fully screwed on. It should go past the threads a little bit. You could always machine a spacer the same diameter as the spring cup and not have to worry about the little disc. Or use a countersunk washer flipped over...

 

[House]

I slapped this on for now... Countersunk washer is a good idea!
Wish I had a box full of anodized hardware like you do! 8)

 

[xkill]

Switch to Egressor shocks?
:mrgreen:

What is the size of threads that you cut on the lower links?

 

[House]

LOL
I have always used SCX/Egressor shocks, but have never
been able to keep them from leaking. They are like an old
truck, you never have to change the oil in them, just keep
topping them off with fresh oil... :lmao:
These links are Dlux links and he uses M4 threads so the
rod ends thread right on. Easier for the customer, but harder
to make. Usually I make them with 10-32 threads so you
can run a die right down the 3/16” rod. Way easier to make
links, but does require running a tap through your rod ends.

 

[xkill]

I was using stock plastic SCX10 shocks and have little issue with them... In fact they still hold the same oil for maybe 4 years! (Yes, they still have oil in them and now they live in my sporty
I used a Hulksta build tread on how to proper build scx10 shocks and it worked out great.
On the Pro I switched to egressor and also have zero issues.
I need to top them off with oil after 2 years but it is very minimal quantity and I only notice when I cycle them by hand close to full compression.

I was looking to buy some 4mm Ti so it would be smaller than 3/16 rod and also I would not need to tap the rod ends.
I think there are some imperial treads that are more coarse than M4 and it would be easier and better to use on the plastic rod ends.
Maybe I'll just use the M4.

Thanks for the help!

 

[tapped-out]

Re: House’s Alumi-Fighter Bounty Hunter

Xkill I thread 4mm ti-rod with 8-32 die works easy enough. No how good is the titnium rod it claims 5grd (Chinese titanium rod) But time will tell. Just made the rear upper links after our last comp. I busted my 1/8" upper links.
My scx10 shock I always had to add 2 drops of oil after eating comp to keep them full. My bigbore shocks don't leak.
Wish I would have switched from scx10 to bigbore shocks yrs. Ago.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

 

[House]

I think 4mm Grade 5 would be a great alternative if you made sure to get good material.
Never really a fan of Traxxas*, but these are DravTech, so all good, right?... :lmao:
*But then again I did a bunch of destructive testing on Rod Ends and Revo's were the strongest so I always use them...;-)

 

[tapped-out]

D-wray built my big bore shocks to his specs. So imo better than DravTech.:mrgreen:

I keep a close eye on him and stole all his secrets 8)

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

I think 4mm Grade 5 would be a great alternative if you made sure to get good material.
Never really a fan of Traxxas*, but these are DravTech, so all good, right?... :lmao:
*But then again I did a bunch of destructive testing on Rod Ends and Revo's were the strongest so I always use them...;-)

Lathed big bores will he just as good on day 3650 as day 1. Teflon coated bodies and a Ti nitride coated shafts don't wear anywhere nearly as fast as anodized aluminum and raw Ti (early version) or chrome plated steel (latest) dravtech shocks.


Scx suck no matter how much you church them up with aftermarket parts.

 

[House]

Didn't get much done with Tryptophan Day in the way...
Changed the inner bearings in the knuckles and used some shims to get everything to my liking.
Got the draglink and tierod made. Went with a simple straight setup for now and I am getting 50°.
I can get more out of it with a little work, but want to be nice to the wimpy shafts.:lmao:

No shock leaks yet...:shock:

 

[House]

Pic

 

[House]

Tonight’s project was a .030 Lexan skid for the motor, servo, and battery.
Not really a necessary part I guess, but I like having something under my batteries to help keep them from falling out...

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

If you put the drag link & tie rod above the arms with a double shear piece from Erik you'd get more angle and more steering power because there would be less wasted movement due to higher angles.

Lexan skid looks good, until it hits the first rock. :lol: The panels I cut for my pro looked great until the first rollover.

 

[d-wray]

Wow! rig looks good. How much knuckle weight is that per side.

 

[Erik D_lux]

Bad ass man! Looks great!

Little late to the party but....

You guys claiming 7075 is as strong as TI are crazy! That said, I think youre tubes will be fine. My OG 7075 tubes I made for Bergs were thin and they never bent. The only problem is with the servo threads, which you dont have to worry about.

Super stoked that the gears worked! Man, that will really help all 2 of you SDS case guys out. LOL

Yeah, the Dravtech shocks dont fully collapse, just like the Traxxas 2660. Weird since they are a direct copy. LOL. If you ever look at a 2660, they come with the blue o rings to help with this. I have never understood why Traxxas didnt just fix them to the correct length. In fact, all size Big bores are not correct in one way or another and they use spacers to make them correct.

 

[House]

Thanks guys! "thumbsup"

If you put the drag link & tie rod above the arms with a double shear piece from Erik

Funny, I was looking at modding another pair of carbon uppers to do this.
Is there a part already designed for this I haven't seen?

How much knuckle weight is that per side.

I haven't put it on the scale, but if my calculations are correct it should
be right around 8oz. per side as it sits, with the 1.7oz. weights ready to
jump on if needed...

Little late to the party....

No kidding, you have been missed! ;-)

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

Thanks guys! "thumbsup"



Funny, I was looking at modding another pair of carbon uppers to do this.
Is there a part already designed for this I haven't seen?



I haven't put it on the scale, but if my calculations are correct it should
be right around 8oz. per side as it sits, with the 1.7oz. weights ready to
jump on if needed...

Erik has a piece for double sheer mounts he uses on sthupers. It might not be on the site.

Brass tungsten holders with all 8 slugs should be just a tick over 6oz per side. I know mine with the 1.7oz add on come in a 7.75oz per side.

 

[Erik D_lux]

Thanks guys! "thumbsup"



Funny, I was looking at modding another pair of carbon uppers to do this.
Is there a part already designed for this I haven't seen?



I haven't put it on the scale, but if my calculations are correct it should
be right around 8oz. per side as it sits, with the 1.7oz. weights ready to
jump on if needed...



No kidding, you have been missed! ;-)

I have double sheer arms, problem is that you have to run wider hubs to clear. If you dont mind that, then yes, they are good to go.

Loaded dice weights are 6.5oz totally loaded. Knuckles will add approx 1.5oz per side also? So yeah, about 8oz total.

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

That makes sense, I never include the weight difference between a dlux aluminum knuckle vs VP etc.

 

[House]

I also have 4 Tungsten slugs stashed inside those aluminum knuckles. ;-)