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House’s 2022 Sporty

Which of course now the tie rod doesn’t clear the link mount… :roll:
You can see it has a long way to go to hit the steering stops.
 

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So back out comes the old little machinist vice to put two small bends in the tie rod, a half turn out on each rod end, and wa-la, back in business with full turning radius… 8) (It looks like it is hitting at full lock, but it isn’t)
 

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Hard to see the rear shock limiting in this pic, but it made a difference for sure…
Starting to look like a comp crawler!
 

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Got the servo nestled down into it’s little home and the motor/trans fastened down.
I also removed the spacers from the motor side of the chassis since there was enough clearance.
 

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So I figured I would throw the drive lines in, that should be quick and simple!
Put the ends on, mocked up the shafts for length, cycled the suspension to see shortest and longest lengths, marked, cut, deburred, installed, BIND. :x
Took me a few minutes to realize that the tangs on the universal joint were binding on the transmission output shaft at full droop….
So shortened the shaft a bit and put a bevel on it and everything seems to be working properly now.
 

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Time to start coming up with a plan for the electronics… :???:
 

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Nothing too crazy, but somewhat tidied up at least…
 

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Thanks.
I ended up modifying the lengths. I believe the lengths they offer in the Sucker Punch kit right now are for AR60 axles, so hopefully they will make a kit with the correct lengths for these axles soon. You can order separate links to get close enough to use though.
This is where it sits right now:
FU - 118
FL - 113
RU - 116
RL - 114
*Note: It still needs to go on the wheelbase jig to dial it in perfect*
 
Exploring a few different battery and electronics mounting options, but as usual, nothing is easy and there are pluses and minuses of every setup…
 

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There really isn’t that much of a difference between the 450 battery and the ESC/BEC/RX combo…
 

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So I was running into some battery clearance issues that I wasn’t really happy with and had to deal with our wonderful Northern California wildfire evacuations so this sat on the table for a few weeks for me to stare at… I was contemplating using my old 25C GensAce batteries instead of the 75C Tattu’s and Nabil mentioned that the new Tattu 45C batteries are similar in size to the old ones… I like the fitment of the flatter battery with this horizontal servo setup so these will most likely be what I end up using. Here are a few pics of the size difference between the 75C and 45C as well as the 45C versus the 25C. As you can see the newer ones are even slightly smaller than the old ones. Win!
 

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New batteries are received, leads shortened, and black XT30’s installed.
Also found some new low profile Velcro that I am liking so far…
 

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I also learned that the Futaba R2106GF receivers are either really sensitive to shrink wrap over the antenna or the antenna is too close to something that interferes with it if you shrink it like this. Your radio will lose signal less than 2 feet away… NOT recommended.
 

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This forced me to take my electronics package back apart, so I reassembled it even a little tidier, but with the antenna more in the open, and it seems to have make a world of difference. Weird.
 

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And, just like everything else with this car, it decided to F with me some more… :ror:
 

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What a great build. I’ve overlooked it many times since I’m not into the old comp crawlers, but I appreciate the attention to detail.

I will be keeping track from now on, thanks for sharing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The stubs seem to be oversized and the pin holes seem to be undersized…
I love tight tolerances and no slop, but these can’t even be hammered on/through.
It would be easier to machine the aluminum hubs than the steel axles, but then other hubs still won’t fit, so I guess I will be tearing the axles back apart again. :x
 
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Well the pin issue was the axle holes so I clearanced them with a 3mm drill.
There was under .001” difference but steel on steel made them a no go…
 

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