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Gun and knife picture thread!

I have to admit I never would have thought of an air rifle, even a match piece, having a favored pellet. I could see finding a more consistently manufactured brand pellet to pellet compared to others but not gun to gun. Interesting.

Some nice jagged one hole groups regardless.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
 
It's actually a little of both of those things. Match pellets are sorted by weight and size much more stringently than cheapo stuff from Wally World. But yes, every gun will have pellets it loves, and those it won't shoot for shit also. No different than a powder burner really.
 
If anybody of you remember the cosmetic issues on the trigger I received from Tandemkross I just wanted to give you an update. There is no update. I responded to their email on July 12th when I basically scolded them for knowingly shipping blemished products and passing them off as new. It's been over a month now with no response so at this point I'm going to assume I got two blemished triggers for the full price of one. Time to list one for sale and recoup my money.
 
Damn, that sucks Tim. If it's any consolation, I bought an OWB kydex holster off r/gundeals. The vendor was present in the thread (didn't start it though), was prompt with answers, etc. Website said 3-5 week lead time. I'm going on 8 weeks, and tried both email and phone contact last week, and have had nothing but radio silence from them. It's not a ton of money, it's just the principle of it with me.
 
Damn, that sucks Tim. If it's any consolation, I bought an OWB kydex holster off r/gundeals. The vendor was present in the thread (didn't start it though), was prompt with answers, etc. Website said 3-5 week lead time. I'm going on 8 weeks, and tried both email and phone contact last week, and have had nothing but radio silence from them. It's not a ton of money, it's just the principle of it with me.

What's the name of the company? Always looking for good holster recommendations (and companies to avoid)! I just bought a Vedder and it's not the greatest. I expected better since they are highly recommended. Up to this point my favorite is Procraft Tactical (a small one-man show on Facebook).
 
Cooper Custom Kydex was the vendor. Should have went back to my locally vet owned and operated guys as usual. Trying to save a buck ends just how it usually does in my case.
 
I took advantage of the 15% off eBay coupon and got a set of the Magpul MBUS Pro sights. Unlike their polymer MBUS sights, these seem very impressive!

I worked on my Aero AR-15 build this weekend. I experienced some learning curve issues, but nothing major. Also have some questions for you guys that have built ARs.

1. What is the torque for the buffer tube castle nut? I've seen an extreme range online from 40 INCH-POUNDS to 40 FOOT-POUNDS. 40 FOOT-POUNDS seems like a ton.
2. What do you use to stake the castle nut on the buffer tube?
3. I've read to put Rocksett on the screws for the gas block, but do you stake it? If you stake it, what tool(s) do you use?
4. What is the torque for the flash hider? And as far as getting it lined up, do you just stop turning once it's against the washer and tight even if it's not all the way tightened down?

 
Tim I have never used nor even heard of a torque wrench made for for the castle nut. I don't stake them either, in case I need to tear it down for some reason. Just put blue loctite on the tube threads, and torque the nut down fairly firmly with an armorers wrench and let sit 24hrs for the loctite to cure.

Are you using a crush washer for the flash hider? Is it an A2 birdcage?
 
1. What is the torque for the buffer tube castle nut? I've seen an extreme range online from 40 INCH-POUNDS to 40 FOOT-POUNDS. 40 FOOT-POUNDS seems like a ton.
2. What do you use to stake the castle nut on the buffer tube?
3. I've read to put Rocksett on the screws for the gas block, but do you stake it? If you stake it, what tool(s) do you use?
4. What is the torque for the flash hider? And as far as getting it lined up, do you just stop turning once it's against the washer and tight even if it's not all the way tightened down?

1. HPI guy uses almost the same method I use. I tighten the nut with armorer's wrench then just give the wrench a solid whack with my hand to make it tighter. Done.

2. Never staked a castle nut on any of my rifles. Never had one come loose but I also don't shoot 10000 rds a month or operate operationally in my area of operations (some here might actually understand that reference :ror:)

3. I've never read about a gas block needing staked. Are you using a set screw type or a clamp on type? I have set screw ones and I just use red loctite. Unless you are doing mag dumps constantly you probably won't get it hot enough to degrade the loctite.

If you are worried about it rocksett won't hurt but I'd make sure everything is functioning before using it. Most gas blocks will not sit against the shoulder on the barrel and if yours is the gas port is usually not centered in the gas blocks hole. Making sure this lines up correctly is important. Once rocksett sets you can't get it off without soaking it in water (or so I have been told). Heat doesn't work on rocksett which is why it is used for suppressor mounts.

4. If you are using a crush washer and a muzzle device that doesn't need timed you can tighten it down as much as you want. Usually you thread the device on until it hits the crush washer and then index it how you want it by going tighter. I believe once you start to crush the washer you have almost 2 full rotations before it bottoms out.
 
Tim I have never used nor even heard of a torque wrench made for for the castle nut. I don't stake them either, in case I need to tear it down for some reason. Just put blue loctite on the tube threads, and torque the nut down fairly firmly with an armorers wrench and let sit 24hrs for the loctite to cure.

Are you using a crush washer for the flash hider? Is it an A2 birdcage?

I have the Magpul Armorer's Wrench. It has a spot built into it where you put your torque wrench.

Yes, it's an A2 birdcage with a crush washer.

1. HPI guy uses almost the same method I use. I tighten the nut with armorer's wrench then just give the wrench a solid whack with my hand to make it tighter. Done.

2. Never staked a castle nut on any of my rifles. Never had one come loose but I also don't shoot 10000 rds a month or operate operationally in my area of operations (some here might actually understand that reference :ror:)

3. I've never read about a gas block needing staked. Are you using a set screw type or a clamp on type? I have set screw ones and I just use red loctite. Unless you are doing mag dumps constantly you probably won't get it hot enough to degrade the loctite.

If you are worried about it rocksett won't hurt but I'd make sure everything is functioning before using it. Most gas blocks will not sit against the shoulder on the barrel and if yours is the gas port is usually not centered in the gas blocks hole. Making sure this lines up correctly is important. Once rocksett sets you can't get it off without soaking it in water (or so I have been told). Heat doesn't work on rocksett which is why it is used for suppressor mounts.

4. If you are using a crush washer and a muzzle device that doesn't need timed you can tighten it down as much as you want. Usually you thread the device on until it hits the crush washer and then index it how you want it by going tighter. I believe once you start to crush the washer you have almost 2 full rotations before it bottoms out.

3. I'm not sure what the difference is between the clamp and set screw style. Mine has two set screws on the bottom. It's an Odin Works adjustable gas block that came with my Odin Works barrel. Their video shows that their gas block is designed to but up against the "shoulder" on the barrel which makes for easy installation. It also has a line on the barrel and gas block so you can align it vertically.

4. It's the A2 birdcage style so the holes face up if that's what you mean by "timed".
 
Jato you have a set screw type gas block. A clamp on squeezes a split in the bottom of the gas block with bolts instead of using set screws pressing into the barrel. You should be okay with the gas block against the shoulder on the barrel but it is a good idea to measure to make sure it works out correctly. Several of mine do not touch the shoulder when centered.

Also yes that is what I meant by timing. Many muzzle devices require being used in a specific orientation.
 
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so I finally figured out what to do with all of my A2 grips.

43312810754_61d0563f78_c.jpg
 
The Vortex Venom that I ordered on July 2nd finally shipped yesterday (August 16th). I would have cancelled the order if not for the fact the red dot listing had a price error and on top of that they honored a coupon so I got it for $170 shipped.
 
Knife purchases in the other thread got me thinking and remembered these.

In no way am I a Knife guru so take it as you will.

When I did a lot of off roadiing and camping I went from a cheapo to a Knives of Alaska for fire prep etc. Never failed and still has a wicked edge. Because it is a medium light duty at 7" it was tedious on some chores around camp. There are a ton of good and very good knives out there but for the smaller stuff I decided on a Ontario Rat3. It could double as a smaller camp knife and a good GoBag. I then looked the $$. Warranted but not what I wanted to spend at that time. Found a guy on YT reviewing the CIMA brand and is a direct KO save for the blade material of a OR3. This was a few years ago and it was like $15 with pretty good reviews so I said I'd give it a try. Only gave it one fire prep outing and was very impressed. No rolled edges, good ergos and even at the current price a good blade. I need to give it a thorough thrashing but there are hundreds of YT vids now of guys giving it H. Wouldn't hesitate to leave home with it so to speak.

https://www.gearbest.com/fixed-blades-knives/pp_235633.html?wid=1433363
 

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Very interesting Watch.


https://youtu.be/nycYxb-zNwc


<a href="<iframe width=" 560"="" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nycYxb-zNwc" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="">"><a href="<iframe width=" 560"="" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nycYxb-zNwc" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nycYxb-zNwc" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0"></iframe>
 
My little EDC Vs the new larger SDC ( Some Day Carry )
tumblr_pdmg6irNOL1wxv8ejo1_1280.jpg


First time i have done chopping with a folder :-) but that worked fine on the 1.5 - 2" branches i tested on ( not the hardest kinds of wood )
 
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