I edited your quote to make it correct. It's a great ESC regardless of price. There are more expensive ESCs that suck in comparison IMO.
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Anyone using the Hobbywing QUICRun WP 1080 ESC?
- Thread starter CoolRunning
- Start date
CoolRunning
Rock Crawler
I now have one in both an RR10 and SCX10 with the same Titan 550 21T's running on 3S and they are shaping up great.
The ESC doesn't seem to even get over 40C in the SCX10 on 3S with the Titan with 23/80 gearing and 1.9s.
The ESC stays very reasonable in the RR10 (say 44C after a 3S run) though motor gets a bit warm in the RR10 with 12/64 gearing on even 2S. Well, only about 55 degrees C thus far but none the less I'm ordering some 10T and 11T pinions to see how this goes. I want 55 C after some hard work and reducing top speed a bit will be ok.
The ESC is smoother than the AE-5 and very responsive. The combo of the Titan and HW is fantastic TBBH. I pulled the HW sensored brushless system out of the SCX10 to put this in and IMO, this is far better (more linear, more responsive and adjustable and just as fast/powerful - probably more power TBH - with instant fwd/rev). Plus it's very water tolerant and far cheaper to replace dead motors. I imagine the ESC is going to be a lot happier when dealing with a shorted/dying motor than a brushless one too.
The ESC doesn't seem to even get over 40C in the SCX10 on 3S with the Titan with 23/80 gearing and 1.9s.
The ESC stays very reasonable in the RR10 (say 44C after a 3S run) though motor gets a bit warm in the RR10 with 12/64 gearing on even 2S. Well, only about 55 degrees C thus far but none the less I'm ordering some 10T and 11T pinions to see how this goes. I want 55 C after some hard work and reducing top speed a bit will be ok.
The ESC is smoother than the AE-5 and very responsive. The combo of the Titan and HW is fantastic TBBH. I pulled the HW sensored brushless system out of the SCX10 to put this in and IMO, this is far better (more linear, more responsive and adjustable and just as fast/powerful - probably more power TBH - with instant fwd/rev). Plus it's very water tolerant and far cheaper to replace dead motors. I imagine the ESC is going to be a lot happier when dealing with a shorted/dying motor than a brushless one too.
ThunderbirdJunkie
Rock Stacker
My understanding is that it can make the "steps" in digital transmission smaller, making things like low speed/low throttle input smoother.
If you've ever noticed a speed control feels "notchy" and not smooth, that would be the cause. Similar to how you'll get a better sound quality out of most analog audio equipment than digital, since what we're basically dealing with in a brushed speed control is a tiny, digital car amplifier. Shorter PWM will be good for a smoother, more analog throttle feel.
Well initially when I got the ESC I decided to look that up, which led to an RC Helicopter forum thread: Understanding ESC PWM and Timing settings - HeliFreak
Here's a short explanation from this post:
Here's a short explanation from this post:
Awesome! :ror:"thumbsup"
Yes, it's Pulse Width Modulation! "thumbsup" Here's a good explanation:
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/PWM
Great to hear! 8)"thumbsup"
seanoguano
Newbie
I just got one for the MST-CMX I'm finishing up.
I have two Venom 5000 Mah 20C 3S batteries that I can't use in any of my other cars. They all need 35C or higher.
Will this esc be ok with a 20C 3S battery?
I have two Venom 5000 Mah 20C 3S batteries that I can't use in any of my other cars. They all need 35C or higher.
Will this esc be ok with a 20C 3S battery?
Ninomaniac
Rock Crawler
That's 100A, dude. Should be enough for a 20 pound Wraith.
CoolRunning
Rock Crawler
In regards to C rating, it's just a rating that the manufacturer put on it...it has no relation to real life or any other manufacturer...it's a made up thing and most batteries will not pull anywhere near 60C even if they are 60C lipos. See it more as a reference to the manufacturers other packs.
Just try them and see how they go in whatever rig you're running. Don't push them insanely hard to start and built up.
If they get hot, they are not up to the task.
I come from the RC heli world and a 30C lipo can be drained in 3 minutes and not be hot so in an RC car, they really don't get flogged unless you have a CRAZY powerful setup and basically do drag runs over and over 'til they are depleted.
I've been using 30C 3S 2200 packs which is about the equiv of a 12C 5000 3S in a Yeti (at times), an SCX10 and a RR10 Bomber.
Just remember to generally stop discharging at around that 3.78v per cell mark and your packs will last ages and keep a nice healthy IR. Discharging lower wears packs out far quicker.
I have found that packs seem to start generating heat when you start heading under that 3.78 point as they start struggling to deliver the appropriate amperage and the chemical reaction is not occurring as easily. I personally wouldn't use a 2200 30C lipo in a Yeti all the time (I'd use larger packs for the increased amperage) but I mention this as when I have (for testing out changes to the Yeti) I have spent the pack doing burnouts and zooming around flat out and the pack has come out fine. They don't get even warm in a Bomber or SCX10 with a 550 Titan though.
The ESC really won't care what C rating the pack is and will simply try to deliver what the motor asks for (up to what it can consume) and what the battery can supply up until it's thermal limits anyway (this is an excellent ESC and shouldn't have any issues with a normal 1/10 crawler).
Just try them and see how they go in whatever rig you're running. Don't push them insanely hard to start and built up.
If they get hot, they are not up to the task.
I come from the RC heli world and a 30C lipo can be drained in 3 minutes and not be hot so in an RC car, they really don't get flogged unless you have a CRAZY powerful setup and basically do drag runs over and over 'til they are depleted.
I've been using 30C 3S 2200 packs which is about the equiv of a 12C 5000 3S in a Yeti (at times), an SCX10 and a RR10 Bomber.
Just remember to generally stop discharging at around that 3.78v per cell mark and your packs will last ages and keep a nice healthy IR. Discharging lower wears packs out far quicker.
I have found that packs seem to start generating heat when you start heading under that 3.78 point as they start struggling to deliver the appropriate amperage and the chemical reaction is not occurring as easily. I personally wouldn't use a 2200 30C lipo in a Yeti all the time (I'd use larger packs for the increased amperage) but I mention this as when I have (for testing out changes to the Yeti) I have spent the pack doing burnouts and zooming around flat out and the pack has come out fine. They don't get even warm in a Bomber or SCX10 with a 550 Titan though.
The ESC really won't care what C rating the pack is and will simply try to deliver what the motor asks for (up to what it can consume) and what the battery can supply up until it's thermal limits anyway (this is an excellent ESC and shouldn't have any issues with a normal 1/10 crawler).
CoolRunning
Rock Crawler
Meant to say 'put out' as naturally a battery supplies...
ThunderbirdJunkie
Rock Stacker
I'm running this in a mostly stock SCX10.2 kit (35t Boost motor, 1080 ESC, 4200 2s, King shocks, PL TSLs on RC4wd steelies, and that's pretty much it), but...
The LVC cuts in too soon. Sure, I'm getting 90+ minutes of runtime, but I'm putting 2900mah into the battery after it hits LVC, and it's at 7.2v.
I'm seriously considering an FXR (or probably going to a CC Mamba X and one of the new sensored motors is more likely) just so I can set the LVC lower.
The LVC cuts in too soon. Sure, I'm getting 90+ minutes of runtime, but I'm putting 2900mah into the battery after it hits LVC, and it's at 7.2v.
I'm seriously considering an FXR (or probably going to a CC Mamba X and one of the new sensored motors is more likely) just so I can set the LVC lower.
allanon1965
I wanna be Dave
That sounds about right for 2s...go to 3s and your run time will increase...my run time on the 1080 I have in my Lambo crawler is over 3 hours on 2 2200mah lipos in parallel...
CoolRunning
Rock Crawler
I have to ask the question of why you want to spend money on an ESC just to try to get the voltage of your lipo lower?
3.6v is far too low already. You'll be damaging it depleting it so far. Just buy another lipo. When a 5000 60C 2S hardpack is only $20, just buy a few.
Some of the ramifications of killing lipos quickly are high IR, less punch/more sag, increased heat during discharge and charging and increased risk of a cell dropping and a lipo fire.
Keep the discharge to say 3.75-3.78 and your lipo will last so much longer and the IR will stay lower for longer. You need to chuck them when it starts climbing and as they are dirt cheap look after them and own a few. Your run times will still be ages and you'll be able to run for like 4 hours straight if you want.
3.6v is far too low already. You'll be damaging it depleting it so far. Just buy another lipo. When a 5000 60C 2S hardpack is only $20, just buy a few.
Some of the ramifications of killing lipos quickly are high IR, less punch/more sag, increased heat during discharge and charging and increased risk of a cell dropping and a lipo fire.
Keep the discharge to say 3.75-3.78 and your lipo will last so much longer and the IR will stay lower for longer. You need to chuck them when it starts climbing and as they are dirt cheap look after them and own a few. Your run times will still be ages and you'll be able to run for like 4 hours straight if you want.
Hardcoretam
Quarry Creeper
Just disable it completely then plug in and set up a custom LV alarm / cutoff
WNCtrailriders
Newbie
I just ordered 2 of the HW wp1080 esc's. it seems that everyone on here that has them loves them. i was looking at the HH trailmaster BLE PRO and i just couldnt make myself hit the checkout button. i found these and decided to give them a go. hopefully everyone is still pleased with theirs?
CoolRunning
Rock Crawler
Hardcoretam
Quarry Creeper
Wifi module?
I doubt it unless they have a universal one that will work with this ESC. That's probably not going to happen though.
It's not a big issue though because the programming port is on the ESC. You don't have to remove the ESC wire from the receiver which is such an awesome feature. HobbyWing has been doing this for a while. Everybody should be following this!
