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Anyone using the Hobbywing QUICRun WP 1080 ESC?

i ran mine yesterday and about a 10 to 15 min run and set the cut off at medium.When i went to check the battery it read 3.83 which to me is still enough juice power so i decided to set it to low and it still cut off at 3.80.
So is the "low" setting suppose to cut off around 3.20 and the "high" setting around 3.80,or is there some thing getting hot and slowing down my rig after a 10 or 15 min run...
 
i ran mine yesterday and about a 10 to 15 min run and set the cut off at medium.When i went to check the battery it read 3.83 which to me is still enough juice power so i decided to set it to low and it still cut off at 3.80.
So is the "low" setting suppose to cut off around 3.20 and the "high" setting around 3.80,or is there some thing getting hot and slowing down my rig after a 10 or 15 min run...
Did you take the temperature of the ESC and motor?

3.2 is as low as you should ever go with a LiPo. Some argue that's too low. The ESC is being overly cautious and doing you a favor.
 
It's perhaps when you go to put the motor under load you get a slight dip in the voltage as well so it might be set to cut out around 3.6v on low and it's hitting that when trying to move, but will jump back to 3.8v with no load
 
It's perhaps when you go to put the motor under load you get a slight dip in the voltage as well so it might be set to cut out around 3.6v on low and it's hitting that when trying to move, but will jump back to 3.8v with no load

that exactly what it's doing but just after maybe a 10 min run set on "Med"
Any idea what
Low=
med=
high=
any idea what those settings might be...
maybe the 17T motor is getting hot...I'll check the temp next time..
 
So are you guys finding it's a solid ESC on 3S or are most running 2S?

I had a err...bad...experience trying 3S with sensored brushless HW gear (working great on the SCX10 but it was a disaster on the Bomber so I'm kind of paranoid about heavily loading up the SCX10 crawling - it works great as a basher though) and have decided to go back to brushed and keep my Bomber and SCX10 as dedicated crawlers. Rock Rey and Yeti as trail trucks.

Any issues cooking brushed motors on 3S?

I'll be going with dedicated brushed crawler motors like the Tekin stuff...no more racing motors (or ESC's) for crawling etc.
 
I run the 1060 on 3s all the time. I have 2 of them in my berg, each powering a brood chaos 35t. Never saw any heat issues. I have one in a class 3 trail truck running 3s 5000mah packs with no issues. You might have to go down a few teeth on the pinion gear if its getting hot. 3s generally runs better if you gear down some.

Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
 
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that exactly what it's doing but just after maybe a 10 min run set on "Med"
Any idea what
Low=
med=
high=
any idea what those settings might be...
maybe the 17T motor is getting hot...I'll check the temp next time..

The 17t motor getting hot wouldn't cause the ESC to shut down or cut out though.
How many Mah are the batteries?

With a 3s 3300mah and a 17t motor i got a good 45 minutes at least with a mix of crawling and bashing (87/15 gearing) on my SCX10

So are you guys finding it's a solid ESC on 3S or are most running 2S?

I had a err...bad...experience trying 3S with sensored brushless HW gear (working great on the SCX10 but it was a disaster on the Bomber so I'm kind of paranoid about heavily loading up the SCX10 crawling - it works great as a basher though) and have decided to go back to brushed and keep my Bomber and SCX10 as dedicated crawlers. Rock Rey and Yeti as trail trucks.

Any issues cooking brushed motors on 3S?

I'll be going with dedicated brushed crawler motors like the Tekin stuff...no more racing motors (or ESC's) for crawling etc.

I remember reading your post about the sensored HW stuff. Bad days.
I can say for sure this ESC (1080) seems to tick all the boxes.
Runs cool for me, even with 3s and a 17t motor with a mix of crawling and flat out running.
I live in Scotland and it's pretty cold here just now but the ESC doesn't even get warm.

I keep things geared as low as possible but with more powerful motors so i can have that nice crawl speed but a bit of punch if i need it.
 
I'm using 5000 mah 25C 2S 14T 64T 32P gears.I think my set up was wrong.My set up is backwards because i solder the motor wires backwards cause on the hackmoto motor it shows which direction the motor should be turning when going forward.Now when i set my programming card the forward setting is actually the reverse setting and vise versa.Wonder if the make sense......
 
I picked one of these up a couple weeks ago and have been really impressed with it. I had it out for a 2 hour run earlier today didn't even get warm running 2s (next run will be 3s). This thing is silky smooth. You can't beat it for the money.
 
Curious to hear what setups/gearing/batteries/rig weight people are running with this ESC and how the drag brake is, and if you can run a progressive throttle and brake curve. This is at the top of my shopping list for an ESC right now.

I'll probably be running a 45t on 3S or a 35t on 2S geared up a bit on my SCX10 II and the SCX10s I'm building for my kids.

Rig weight will probably be about 6.5lb max, and the kids' rigs will be basic, stock trucks (likely with 55t 2S batteries).
 
I'm using 5000 mah 25C 2S 14T 64T 32P gears.I think my set up was wrong.My set up is backwards because i solder the motor wires backwards cause on the hackmoto motor it shows which direction the motor should be turning when going forward.Now when i set my programming card the forward setting is actually the reverse setting and vise versa.Wonder if the make sense......

Same happened to me, nothing to worry about. I switched the wires to the motor and all is good now.
 
Curious to hear what setups/gearing/batteries/rig weight people are running with this ESC and how the drag brake is, and if you can run a progressive throttle and brake curve. This is at the top of my shopping list for an ESC right now.

I'll probably be running a 45t on 3S or a 35t on 2S geared up a bit on my SCX10 II and the SCX10s I'm building for my kids.

Rig weight will probably be about 6.5lb max, and the kids' rigs will be basic, stock trucks (likely with 55t 2S batteries).

Scx10ii, 1080 ESC, HH Trailmaster Sport 27t, 3S 5000mah battery. Mine is the rtr with the og trans in it and I went from a 13t pinion to an 11t with the truck being around 7-8 pounds i believe. I wouldn't really say it has progressive throttle but you can adjust Start Up Force, Punch, and Drag Brake Rate to your likings. I have mine setup to feel similar to progressive.

I've got around 4 hours of runtime on this setup so far and I really like it.
 
Curious to hear what setups/gearing/batteries/rig weight people are running with this ESC and how the drag brake is, and if you can run a progressive throttle and brake curve. This is at the top of my shopping list for an ESC right now.

I'll probably be running a 45t on 3S or a 35t on 2S geared up a bit on my SCX10 II and the SCX10s I'm building for my kids.

Rig weight will probably be about 6.5lb max, and the kids' rigs will be basic, stock trucks (likely with 55t 2S batteries).

I've got a truck that's around 6lbs and i run a 50% drag brake. It's enough for it to roll slowly down steep hills on it's own but i can make it strong enough to hold it if i wanted

No progressive throttle and brake curve but you can set brake strength, drag brake strength and also how aggressive the drag brake comes in. Punch control also.

I've tried all different motors on 13/87 gearing. Even a 17t motor on 3s the ESC doesn't get warm.
 
Curious to hear what setups/gearing/batteries/rig weight people are running with this ESC and how the drag brake is, and if you can run a progressive throttle and brake curve. This is at the top of my shopping list for an ESC right now.

I'll probably be running a 45t on 3S or a 35t on 2S geared up a bit on my SCX10 II and the SCX10s I'm building for my kids.

Rig weight will probably be about 6.5lb max, and the kids' rigs will be basic, stock trucks (likely with 55t 2S batteries).
I'm using mine in my 7lb Vaterra Ascender with a 35T RC4WD silver can motor, stock gearing, and a 2S and 3S LiPo.

You can't adjust the curves of the throttle and brake, per se, but you can adjust the initial force, punch, etc. I have posted the settings options, as shown in the manual, below. You'd be hard pressed to find a quieter and significantly smoother brushed ESC, period, and in this price range you simply won't find anything better.

QuicRunWP1080_programming.png
 
OK, I just pulled the trigger on this. It and an RC4WD 35t will be replacing my Tekin RS Gen 2/21.5 combo in my SCX10 II.

This will be my first non-Tekin ESC purchase since like 2009.
 
What is the PWM frequency range? And how does changing it affect what happens when you pull the trigger?
 
OK, I just pulled the trigger on this. It and an RC4WD 35t will be replacing my Tekin RS Gen 2/21.5 combo in my SCX10 II.

This will be my first non-Tekin ESC purchase since like 2009.

Looks like it'll be here Saturday. Not sure I've ever been this excited over a $42 purchase before:shock:

But it'll get my RS Gen2 out of my 10.2 and therefore out of harm's way, since I've kinda been lucky with a couple shallow water crossings.
 
Well I've gotten a couple runs with it so far and it's great for the price, I'm using it with a Holmes 13T Crawlmaster Expert in my SCX10.2. I will probably get another for the 1.9 Wraith build as well. I really like the small footprint and on-the-go programming though.
 
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