OK, count me in! I do have a couple of detail questions though; I'm assuming that since the front drive cups off of the front differential are longer than the rears, and since we're converting this to steering on the rear, I would need to order a set of the longer front drive cups to put in the rear differential, correct? Second, in the pictures I notice you're using hexes, axles and wheel nuts off of the ready to run version – I have the kit version which uses 17 mm hexes and 17 mm wheel nuts – will these parts still work with the kit version wheel hexes?
The Axial parts you need for this conversion are
AX31259 Front Axle Stub 16 x 39 mm (17 mm Hub) 1 set
AX31225 CVD Dogbone 11x123 1 set
AX31017 Yeti™ XL Steering Knuckle Set
AX31046 Front Pivot Pin 2 pcs
AXA183 M3 x 6 mm Set Screw 2 pcs
AXA1243 Bearing 15 x 21 x 4 mm
AX31201 this part is a little confusing if you look at page 10 and 13 of the manual it says 10 x 16 x 5 mm but the same part number as the one on page 11 which is 8 x 16 x 5 mm which I think is a misprint, I'm pretty sure you need 8 x 16 x 5 mm which on the manual is AXA1225 Bearing 8 x 16 x 5 mm this is the outer bearing on the steering knuckles but I do not own a Kit I have an RTR so please use the caliper to verify.
No need to buy front drive cups they will not fit in the rear and they are too long believe me I tried. The front drive cups are longer because of the IFS, the CVD Dogbone needs to go back and fort as the suspension goes up and down no need in the rear since it is a solid axle the CVD Dogbone will not have the back and fort motion. You can use the rear drive cup and no need to change the hexes and nuts since you'll be using Axials front knuckles, front stubs and front CVD Dogbone.
Downside:
The position of the drag link mount on the Helios C-hub is on the front not on the bottom like the AX31084 AR60 XL Straight Axle Adapter, the AX31034 WB XL Driveshaft will be stretched 25 mm longer it will still work but there's only 4 - 6 mm contact. If your planing to use after market SYEX37 HR Telescoping Steel Rear Drive Shaft you would need 25 mm longer shaft same is true with the GPM/Dhawk brand also, you would need 25 mm longer upper links. A simple solution would be to shorten the upper link and the drag link, in terms of expenses I'll leave that to you to find out. In my build there was no question that the AX31034 WB XL Driveshaft will mot survive on my driving style, I switch both RTR and build to the SYEX37 HR Telescoping Steel Rear Drive Shaft and have the local machinist make me a longer shaft.
Good luck with your conversion measure twice cut once, be safe and most of all Have Fun.