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Yeti XL Solid Front Axle by Helios RC

OK, count me in! I do have a couple of detail questions though; I'm assuming that since the front drive cups off of the front differential are longer than the rears, and since we're converting this to steering on the rear, I would need to order a set of the longer front drive cups to put in the rear differential, correct? Second, in the pictures I notice you're using hexes, axles and wheel nuts off of the ready to run version – I have the kit version which uses 17 mm hexes and 17 mm wheel nuts – will these parts still work with the kit version wheel hexes?
 
OK, count me in! I do have a couple of detail questions though; I'm assuming that since the front drive cups off of the front differential are longer than the rears, and since we're converting this to steering on the rear, I would need to order a set of the longer front drive cups to put in the rear differential, correct? Second, in the pictures I notice you're using hexes, axles and wheel nuts off of the ready to run version – I have the kit version which uses 17 mm hexes and 17 mm wheel nuts – will these parts still work with the kit version wheel hexes?

The Axial parts you need for this conversion are
AX31259 Front Axle Stub 16 x 39 mm (17 mm Hub) 1 set
AX31225 CVD Dogbone 11x123 1 set
AX31017 Yeti™ XL Steering Knuckle Set
AX31046 Front Pivot Pin 2 pcs
AXA183 M3 x 6 mm Set Screw 2 pcs
AXA1243 Bearing 15 x 21 x 4 mm
AX31201 this part is a little confusing if you look at page 10 and 13 of the manual it says 10 x 16 x 5 mm but the same part number as the one on page 11 which is 8 x 16 x 5 mm which I think is a misprint, I'm pretty sure you need 8 x 16 x 5 mm which on the manual is AXA1225 Bearing 8 x 16 x 5 mm this is the outer bearing on the steering knuckles but I do not own a Kit I have an RTR so please use the caliper to verify.

No need to buy front drive cups they will not fit in the rear and they are too long believe me I tried. The front drive cups are longer because of the IFS, the CVD Dogbone needs to go back and fort as the suspension goes up and down no need in the rear since it is a solid axle the CVD Dogbone will not have the back and fort motion. You can use the rear drive cup and no need to change the hexes and nuts since you'll be using Axials front knuckles, front stubs and front CVD Dogbone.

Downside:
The position of the drag link mount on the Helios C-hub is on the front not on the bottom like the AX31084 AR60 XL Straight Axle Adapter, the AX31034 WB XL Driveshaft will be stretched 25 mm longer it will still work but there's only 4 - 6 mm contact. If your planing to use after market SYEX37 HR Telescoping Steel Rear Drive Shaft you would need 25 mm longer shaft same is true with the GPM/Dhawk brand also, you would need 25 mm longer upper links. A simple solution would be to shorten the upper link and the drag link, in terms of expenses I'll leave that to you to find out. In my build there was no question that the AX31034 WB XL Driveshaft will mot survive on my driving style, I switch both RTR and build to the SYEX37 HR Telescoping Steel Rear Drive Shaft and have the local machinist make me a longer shaft.

Good luck with your conversion measure twice cut once, be safe and most of all Have Fun.
 
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Good news, we listen! The wife doesn't think so, but that's an entirely different story.

Long story short, we've updated the design of the CHUBS. This allows you to use them for left or right, and you can also mount them in the rear for rear steering and use stock links. This is all great news. We'll be adding rear steer to the shop XL very soon.

Stay tuned for an updated TRUSS as well. This one will be a little bit more beefy and include the servo mounts built in.

625x465_3863543_12225380_1443397906.jpg


Yeti XL - Left or Right Chub (Helios Conversion).e by HeliosRC
 
Can't wait to see the the updated truss I hope it has both left and right servo mount for gigantic wheels and/or crawling applications. I noticed that shapeways makes them in metal format too I would like to take a crack at that, with the anticipation of higher prices for metal of course.
 
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The new truss will have left and right mounts built in. There will also be a version for a single mount on the left side (when looking at axle housing from diff cover side). Do we need a single mount option for the right side only as well?

1. Dual servo mount truss
2. Single left side mount truss
3. Single right side mount truss

I'm asking if we need option 3 or if option 1 and 2 are good.

Lastly, all parts will be available as a set (coming soon).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The Axial parts you need for this conversion are
AX31259 Front Axle Stub 16 x 39 mm (17 mm Hub) 1 set
AX31089 CVD Dogbone 11x123 1 set
AX31017 Yeti™ XL Steering Knuckle Set
AX31046 Front Pivot Pin 2 pcs
AXA183 M3 x 6 mm Set Screw 2 pcs
AXA1243 Bearing 15 x 21 x 4 mm
AX31201 this part is a little confusing if you look at page 10 and 13 of the manual it says 10 x 16 x 5 mm but the same part number as the one on page 11 which is 8 x 16 x 5 mm which I think is a misprint, I'm pretty sure you need 8 x 16 x 5 mm which on the manual is AXA1225 Bearing 8 x 16 x 5 mm this is the outer bearing on the steering knuckles but I do not own a Kit I have an RTR so please use the caliper to verify.

No need to buy front drive cups they will not fit in the rear and they are too long believe me I tried. The front drive cups are longer because of the IFS, the CVD Dogbone needs to go back and fort as the suspension goes up and down no need in the rear since it is a solid axle the CVD Dogbone will not have the back and fort motion. You can use the rear drive cup and no need to change the hexes and nuts since you'll be using Axials front knuckles, front stubs and front CVD Dogbone.

Downside:
The position of the drag link mount on the Helios C-hub is on the front not on the bottom like the AX31084 AR60 XL Straight Axle Adapter, the AX31034 WB XL Driveshaft will be stretched 25 mm longer it will still work but there's only 4 - 6 mm contact. If your planing to use after market SYEX37 HR Telescoping Steel Rear Drive Shaft you would need 25 mm longer shaft same is true with the GPM/Dhawk brand also, you would need 25 mm longer upper links. A simple solution would be to shorten the upper link and the drag link, in terms of expenses I'll leave that to you to find out. In my build there was no question that the AX31034 WB XL Driveshaft will mot survive on my driving style, I switch both RTR and build to the SYEX37 HR Telescoping Steel Rear Drive Shaft and have the local machinist make me a longer shaft.

Good luck with your conversion measure twice cut once, be safe and most of all Have Fun.

AX31089 is a universal center driveline dog bone, 11x155mm, not sure why I'd need one of those. AX31225 is the front CVD axles on my kit, I'm guessing that's what I need...along with the other parts of course.
 
AX31089 is a universal center driveline dog bone, 11x155mm, not sure why I'd need one of those. AX31225 is the front CVD axles on my kit, I'm guessing that's what I need...along with the other parts of course.

yes that's my mistake AX31225 is what you need
 
I am humpty dumpty on the wall for putting this conversion together to do a Wraith XL. I almost have the pan/tub tie in for the links mostly thought out. Who is going to be the 1st to make one?
 
The new truss will have left and right mounts built in. There will also be a version for a single mount on the left side (when looking at axle housing from diff cover side). Do we need a single mount option for the right side only as well?

1. Dual servo mount truss
2. Single left side mount truss
3. Single right side mount truss

I'm asking if we need option 3 or if option 1 and 2 are good.

Lastly, all parts will be available as a set (coming soon).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would like to hit the "Complete your Purchase" button and was curious as the Truss update before i do.
 
Crickets?:lmao: Anybody out there?

Received a PM shortly after this post with the truss being updated Sunday (Yesterday). Placed my order this morning in the color i wanted. Should ship on the 26th and will update then. If the steering is not enough with a single servo truss, i will order the dual servo set up truss.
 

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  • XL Axle Steering Conversion.jpg
    XL Axle Steering Conversion.jpg
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That package should have left the truss option open, people will appreciate it more if they can choose which side to put the servo on and saves consumer some money to have to buy extra truss they wanted it on, the right side or dual servo for that matter. I do see that the dual servo mount is a tad higher but what's $4 more added to the package than say buying another truss.
 
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Hope to hear how it works out because the idea of a Wraith XL sounds super cool to mess around with after comps and whatnot.
 
That package should have left the truss option open, people will appreciate it more if they can choose which side to put the servo on and saves consumer some money to have to buy extra truss they wanted it on, the right side or dual servo for that matter. I do see that the dual servo mount is a tad higher but what's $4 more added to the package than say buying another truss.

I agree but just the fact that someone is actually providing a conversion kit and/or pieces is a win win for all of us. I am not an engineer but i think the parts where very well thought out and i have no doubt the quality will be there. Super stocked to give this a try.
 
Thanks for all of the comments guys! We've released the complete 3 combinations of the truss and hubs.

  • Dual servo mount with Chubs
  • Left servo mount with Chubs
  • Right servo mount with Chubs

When you buy the kit you get a nice discount over buying them separate. We make less money, but you save. Individual parts are available for order if you want to modify or break something.
 
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