Axial Wraith XL "MMTB" Build

[cmbscx10]

Got a little 20min break tonight so looked over Yeti XL #2 and found no issues. Didn't take the Diff's apart but felt fine.

Cut #1 - Body Panel Clearance for the Front/Back shocks. Liking the Dumbo Ears less and less.

 

[cmbscx10]

Took a little lunch break and did a few things to the Front. Since the back will be facing the front now the shocks were too straight up and down set up for more U4 than Crawler.

1. Removed the Sway Bar
2. Moved the lower shock mount on the Front shocks farther back on the lower links.

** Removing the Sway Bar & Moving the shocks gained 9mm of straight up travel and 11mm of right & left up travel as it articulates. My apologies for not knowing the correct terms.

** For future tuning, can anyone explain what the adjustments holes (Orange Circle) are for on the upper links? Anti-Squat? I looked in the manuals of both the Yeti XL and the Yeti 380 but could not find anything.

 

[twissted]

I'll bring one up for you to try.

My stock body (Yeti XL #1 - Orange/Blue) will not be touched but put on the shelf.

Yeti XL #2 (Gray One) body will only be cut up at the dumbo ears and possibly the front panels a little bit below the dumbo ears to clear the shocks. Other than a custom mount for the body clips i don't see it being modified too much. At least that's the theory right now but will know once the two are joined.

Don't cut anything but try shapping the hood from thin aluminum. Then it changes the look that you may be looking for.

 

[twissted]

There is a huge learnig curve when designing or redesigning a rc. I feel for you on this one. There is nothing that you can go off of that will cover what you can and can't do that will show untill its built. Then the bugs will need to be worked out. Carbon fiber is your friend to use to brace with. I hope this build is a winner when it's done. It's already a winner with me as it is a challange that you will learn from and enjoy that prosses and the rest will be icing on the cake in the end.

 

[cmbscx10]

Don't cut anything but try shapping the hood from thin aluminum. Then it changes the look that you may be looking for.

Good Idea. Yeah i am going to hold off on the Dumbo Ears until the end so to speak. If i do a panel i'll have Barndog Racing bust one out for me.

 

[cmbscx10]

There is a huge learnig curve when designing or redesigning a rc. I feel for you on this one. There is nothing that you can go off of that will cover what you can and can't do that will show untill its built. Then the bugs will need to be worked out. Carbon fiber is your friend to use to brace with. I hope this build is a winner when it's done. It's already a winner with me as it is a challange that you will learn from and enjoy that prosses and the rest will be icing on the cake in the end.

Thank you for the comments. It is truly appreciated. I am with you on the learning curve. I learned a tremendous amount on my F350 build.

I hope it will be a Winner when done as well. The Yeti XL is proven to work with out without upgrades so using the back part of the chassis and axle for the front should be just fine. I am using the Helio's conversion for steering and i have no doubt it will work for the steering.
The only concern is the suspension geometry and i am slowly learning that part of the hobby. Nice thing is that if it doesn't work all i will have to do is get a new tub/chassis.

 

[cmbscx10]

Cut #2
Did a test cut on Yeti XL #2 to see if my tools will work and the difficulty of cutting the chassis. ** FYI Chassis is 2.5mm thick **

Cut #3 - No turning back now:lmao:"thumbsup""thumbsup"

 

[Barndog Racing]

Awesome project! "thumbsup"

 

[cmbscx10]

Just as i thought it wasn't like hitting the Staples "That was Easy" Red Button.

In order to run standard 2S batteries in the compartments it would look like this not cutting the links and the trans/chassis too far forward. This is a 22"WB. Way too long and of course not right at all.

To "Center" the trans/chassis and keep the shock at a 30deg angle, One battery will have to ride in front of the trans and the second where the Fuel box is. It is actually nice and flat and enough room for (1) 4S but it would be too tall throwing off the COG. This is a 18.75"WB which is .25" longer than stock.

I Hate waiting for parts to move forward but after i receive the Helios RC conversion kit at the end of the month, i will mock it up some more before the final chassis cut to Yeti XL #2. I will more than likely need make/shorten up the Links in the front.

 

[cmbscx10]

I can't be left waiting for parts. I took some final measurements and did the final cuts to both Yeti XL #1 & 2. Held together with temporary .025 alum plate. I need to go get some 4mm Alum sheets next week for the final plate. NOW i can wait for parts.

 

[bwillenb]

Its Looking good. Waiting for parts is never fun. =(

 

[Sneetches]

Did you plan on 4WS or not with this? I think that'll be the only way to make it actually "nimble" enough without needing a 10 ft circle to turn around in, especially with the diffs locked. It would also help with crawling of course.

 

[cmbscx10]

Did you plan on 4WS or not with this? I think that'll be the only way to make it actually "nimble" enough without needing a 10 ft circle to turn around in, especially with the diffs locked. It would also help with crawling of course.

It won't have 4WS at the beginning but will if the Helios RC conversion works out the way I think it will. Ultimately that is the plan to have 4WS but I have to see if my DX4C will support 4WS. I will research that later unless anyone has a quick "Yes".

 

[jeremy75]

Looking good to be the first try something is always hard. Trial and error is the only way to make it happen. I personally have tortured a few traxxas slashes and
axials making custom rigs."thumbsup"

 

[Mike Flea]

Mike, how's this build coming along?

 

[cmbscx10]

Mike, how's this build coming along?

Wish i could say almost complete. I started a new job a few wekks ago and haven't had time to take a dump let alone finish/proceed with projects unfortunately. The last thing i did was finished the template for the bottom plate and i have the 4mm aluminum plate all ready to cut out.

Once i am in the groove at work it will be finished fairly quickly after the bottom plate as it will be just bolting stuff back in for a test run. Just need those precious few hours to dedicate without falling asleep.

I even have my Cool Whip containers ready for paint for the F350 but like above no time to finish that.:roll:

 

[Mike Flea]

That's cool, good luck on the new job!, RL definitely takes precedence over toys, hope it works out, we'll see ya when ya have time"thumbsup"

 

[cmbscx10]

That's cool, good luck on the new job!, RL definitely takes precedence over toys, hope it works out, we'll see ya when ya have time"thumbsup"

Thanks Mike. Same profession (Telecomm Engineer) different company. New software, policies etc always suck till you get in the groove.

Found a few minutes from the family to take some pics. Energy/motivation is too low to go farther but will take smaller steps than big ones from here on out.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-yeti-xl/523453-yeti-xl-solid-front-axle-helios-rc-5.html

Forgot about this part. I ordered these to try instead of silly putty or thick fluid in the diffs. I have had good luck with HR stuff so we will see how they holds up.

Hot Racing YEX2508 Heavy Duty Diff Posi Lock Spool Yeti XL | eBay

 

[cmbscx10]

Which wheel color should i go with?

PITA Dyed Black

Silver Gray

Gray

 

[Mike Flea]

I like the Gray, subdued, but not black, everybody does black, and I don't like the silver.