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What are you working on??

Are those Ssd knuckles and chubs Troy? If so how do you like them?

They are, so far I like them, not quite as "polished" as VP but were less expensive. The only thing that that surprised me was the C's are tapped and came with set screws that hold them on to the axles. The axles have the normal holes one would expect and the set screws protrude into the plastic the full width of the material, threading in as they go. As of right now they fit nice and snug with no play.
 
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making progress.


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Thunder,

Looks good with the upgrades!

With an uncensored motor I'm guessing that you're going for speed. You're definitely going to want a sway bar set if you are. My suggestion, get a low KV sensored setup for that beast and come crawling with us!
 
My idea was to set it up like a U 4 racer. I haven't been out in a while but I am dying to go and try to break this thing. I have a different sensored motor that I can put into it but it is a 4 1/2 turn Orion 550 can so I don't know if that would even be smooth enough. I make my own links with 8/32 stainless threaded rod and quarter inch stainless tubing the blue ends are RPM. I may switch the whole truck over for crawling. I am waiting for my vanquish anti-rock bars to come in.
 
4.5T is nuts fast! I had a 17.5 stock in my Bomber for a while and with a tiny pinion it was pretty good. 4.5 though.... I don't think there's enough room to gear that thing to go less than 50. I don't even think I've owned a motor that spun faster than 3800. I'd like to see that baby rip!


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I thought we were talking motors not beer cans! That thing is huge.


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My sons 1st hop up! Coincidentally the figure for my jeep showed up today... Which instantly became my sons first doll as well.

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Ordered some underdrive gears for the jeep, new 35t for the beater and robinson racing trans gears for the tundra. Ive got a broken hex driver stuck in one of my mip shafts on the tundra, I have it in the freezer to see if it will shrink enough to get it out so I can change the trans gears. If that doesent work what would you guys suggest to get it out without destroying the shaft and the output shaft?
 
They make left-hand twist drill bits, available at most auto parts stores that will unscrew the screw as they drill (and hopefully catch)the screw.
Best option I can think of!
 
Are you talking about the set screw for the driveshaft? You can put the tip of a hot soldering iron on the set screw to hopefully heat up any loctite or the screw itself to help it come out.
Ben
 
It looks like this. I broke the driver tip in the screw head. Rob, I though about that but I don't think I can get it started in the center enough to not seriously mess up the threads. That will probably be the last resort.
 

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