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Turtle's Modified XV-01

Decided to paint another body last weekend. I had some issues with the blue, it was a transparent Pactra blue, it was really thin and just wanted to run no matter what I did. I will slap some big stickers on the doors later.

i don't know if it's the light or the reflection but the run on the side looks kinda cool though. :)
 
Ok I got some parts in and replaced a broken one.

First I must say rest in Peace Mamba Max you lived a life too fast for most. 2009-2013 :ror:

It started over heating and shutting down within 5 minutes of being plugged in a couple times, plugged it in the last time and I got nothing. :cry:


So anyway it got replaced with a Mamba Max pro minus the fan.
it was a little of a tight fit, but I got it in, minus the wires. :ror:




After that I got some parts in the mail.


RCmart hooked it up! :ror: They sent me a sweet coaster and a pen the is kind of a set of calipers too. I'm not complaining, both have already been used.

On yeah I got some rubber sealed bearings and a Sway bar set (stabilizer) too. :mrgreen:

The sway bar set is kind of strange, it requires you to have some NN parts from the kit, which are only used for the sway bars and has some option narps (collars) that can go on too. I didn't feel like looking for some in my junk so the sway bars went on with them.
Front


Rear




I went with the pink bar in the front (lightest) and the silver bar in the back (heaviest). Just by feeling them I don't feel much of a difference, but the real test with be driving it. The tolerances are really tight in the front, it doesn't seem quite right so I might have to play with it a little. The rear is good though and requires some spacers, again from the NN parts tree, to clear the camber links.

While I was working on the car I replaced my Kimbrough server saver with a new one. The old one developed some play over the last year and I wanted to fix the angle on the link. This is the first time I have removed the servo since I put the servo saver on, I replaced the philips screws with stainless allen head and took the stock spacers off the servo mounts. Clears perfectly now.





I didn't have the energy to put the bearings in. In the next couple weeks I will do it so I can rebuild the diffs before the Colorado Rally Championship series starts.




-Ty
 
I also installed the sway bar set. I have the reinforced suspension arms and XD shocks. there is no issue installing the rear set. the stock front a-arms have the sway bar lower ball end molded as part of the a-arm. the CF a-arms do not. the CF a-arms have 2 positions of the lower shock mounts, I used the outside position. This same hole is supposed to be shared for the lower shock bolt on the outside and the sway bar lower ball end on the inside. the problem is the shock mount bolt goes almost all the way through, not allowing any room for the ball end to screw in. so I drilled out the opposite side of the a arm so that the sway bar lower ball end could be mounted to the inside back of the lower a-arm. this set up seems to be working fine.
I will post a pic later when i get a chance.

Ty, do you think there is an advantage to having the upper ball end at the end of the sway bar vs. the way you have is shown here?

 
No I don't think so. I pushed them in like that because the sway bar mount touched the CVD and at compression touched camber link too. I need to play with it, but I want to drive it first and see if I can even feel the difference.
 
I may have missed it somewhere in the thread, but have any of you tried the front one way kit?

Didn't miss it because it is not recommended for rally cars, at least in my opinion. They remove front braking, and make it so you only have 2 wheel drive reverse. With the tracks we run both are not going to be helpful.

When the front end brakes and then gets throttle again it pulls the front end through the corner. When you over shoot the corner and don't have 4 wheel drive you are going to be screwed. There are other things it does, but those are the two things i don't like the most. I think a one way has its place, but not in rally.
 
Ty, do you think there is an advantage to having the upper ball end at the end of the sway bar vs. the way you have is shown here?

It's a matter of leverage. With the ball at the end of the bar, the bar is effectively softer.
 
I had been meaning to ask, as I couldn't spot it, but what are the longer shocks that you use?

Good question. I have been trying to source some aftermarket shocks that fit the same measurements of what I have now. The front shocks are off of a Tamiya TB-01. The rear shocks are off the front of a Tamiya 12th scale truck (DT-02)

Right now I think Losi mini LST shocks will work and Losi Mini 8 front shocks. RPMJ used the Mini LST shocks I believe and I took some measurements of the Mini 8 front shocks yesterday and I think those will work as well.

I used some crappy calipers and measured the shocks mounted on my car.

Rears
Eye to eye: 69mm
Stroke (shaft travel range): 14mm
Spring length: 43mm
Diameter: 11mm

Front
Eye to eye: 58mm
Stroke: 13mm
 
Did the VW body progress any further Turtle?

I thought I cam across a pic of a Tamiya VW with the 'R' logo, indicating maybe a rally version coming, but now I can't find anything.....
 
No its still clear. I set it on top of the car every now and then, but that is as far as I get. :ror: I'm still deciding exactly how I want to paint it and now that I have a DS3 coming it might take even longer. I will be sure to post it up when I finally paint it. It will happen... one day. :ror:

On another note. I rebuilt the entire car last night. I have been running at the rebuilt HOON470 track and the wet sand has been getting into everything. And finally the stock diff in the rear let go.

So I opened it up last night and saw that the 1000 weight diff oil I put in the rear had run out and the diff was dry, which I think caused the rear diff internals to fail. The rear diff lasted over a year and tons of driving so I am not disappointed by any means. So I rebuilt the rear diff with new plastic gears and put some 3000 weight oil in. I preferred the 1000, but am sick of having it leak out so I went back to 3k so it will stay in. I also rebuilt the front diff. Besides some dirty grease it was in perfect condition. Everything in the front is still the original parts I put in over a year ago. Anyway I cleaned the grease out of the front and am trying 15,000 weight oil in the front. I really liked the 10,000 I have been running, but over 20 or 30 batteries it felt like it loosened up quite a bit. So the thicker stuff went in to see if I could keep some consistency in the diff over time.

I also checked all the other bearings, gears, pulleys and the belt and they are in perfect condition. I was going to start swapping out some of the bearings for the rubber sealed and didn't see the need for that inside the diff housings.

I will take the car for a test drive today and see if I like the new differential settings.

Cliff notes:

Front diff= 15k
Rear diff= 3k
 
Oh look what showed up the other day. :mrgreen: Citroen DS3 WRC from the Czech Republic (for those not in the know).





Came with all the paint masks and the basic decal packs.


I might paint it up before the first race this season, if I can find the time. I'm nervous and excited to paint this body up.
 
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Did the VW body progress any further Turtle?

I thought I cam across a pic of a Tamiya VW with the 'R' logo, indicating maybe a rally version coming, but now I can't find anything.....


Here is a pic of my XV-01 with my VW body "thumbsup"







 
I was at work today when my phone buzzed. I then saw this thread and freaked out. I told everyone how awesome this ds3 body is, and they all just looked at me.

Ty, you can't be nervous about painting it... I was thinking about asking you to paint mine.
 
Turtle - What's the overall quality of the new shell? As good as we all hoped?

BasicMods - Looks good. I don't think it needed the hacking Turtle was doing. Looks like that shovel at the front would clear away a lot of dirt on landings :lmao:
 
Turtle - What's the overall quality of the new shell? As good as we all hoped?

Really impressive. There is a mold line across the hood, like Tamiya bodies have and a couple really small bubbles on the roof. But over all the mold quality is fantastic and there are no real blemishes to these bodies besides those small little bubbles on the roof (which will probably disappear after paint). I think I will find out today. I'm going to attempt painting it! :mrgreen:
 
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