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Turtle's Modified XV-01

Well I had been running a 3800kv castle motor in it but I swapped it out with a 7700Kv (overkill I know lol) for some on road fun. It got hot and I'm sure that's what did it in.
 
AH! Yeah it could have been a transfer of heat causing the spur gear to weaken. Good call. I can't even imagine a 7700. :lmao: That thing must have been moving!
 
I don't think metal is necessary. Chances are your slipper was a little too tight, or the mesh was a little off or something was binding in the system to cause the spur to strip. We were talking about this same thing in FattyMcJ's thread and there are several companies who make a spur gear that will fit the XV-01. Kimbrough is one of them.

I am still running the same spur I put on 6 or 7 months ago. I have broken a lot of other parts, but no issues with the spur... Yet.

Tamiya plastic is used for a reason on their go fast F1 cars to their buggies of all scales to their crawlers! As long as you keep them lubed and maintained with light grease Tamiya plastic gears are the best on the market next to Kimbrough or even delrin replacements.

I thought my CC-01 with a 55T on 2s and 3s would have stripped gears by now with all that torque and crawling, but ever since new the gears are PERFECT condition because I always check at least once a month.
 
Hey Turtle, I had no idea you can convert to 48p with the DF-03 slipper!! Man have I been living under a rock lol. I am running an old 4700kv Castle SV1 setup on 2s and would love to mess with some gearing.

Which spur gear would I need that fits the Tamiya DF-03 slipper pad so I can run 48p gears?
 
hey Turtle was wondering if you had any advice on how much tension the belt should receive?
 
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hey Turtle was wondering if you had any advice on how much tension the belt should receive?

I think it depends on a few things with this car. The "stock" belt needs to be tensioned about half way down for the first couple of batteries. With my 5700kv motor it took 3 or 4 batteries before the belt got stretched out and I had to re tension it. Its easy to know if your belt is no tensioned enough with this car, it is very easy to hear the belt skipping on the pulleys. If you hear it skipping stop driving immediately and add more tension to the belt. The "HD" belts are more rigid and require a little bit less tension. After going through 4 belts now I keep my belts slightly over tensioned to keep them from slapping on the cover and stripping out. I am also running a secondary tensioner on the front so I run a little bit less on the original tensioner now, something just above half tension. I hope that helps.

If you are running a powerful motor I highly suggest running a secondary tensioner toward the front. For me it keeps the belt from twisting on the pulley and keeps things running smooth. I have now been running the same belt for a couple of months with no issues. I attribute this to the front tensioner more so then anything else. I have a write up on the front tensioner mod a couple pages back.
 
Hey first time posting here and I think this is the best thread around I am really glad that there are people who enjoy rally as much as I do. Reading everything here has helped me decide to get back into the hobby and getting into rally rc. Turtle I was wondering how run time you get from the Turnigy 3.8 lips? Thanks again to everyone who posted all the info about this car.
 
Welcome and thank you.

With the 3800mah Turnigy packs... its hard to say, I have had them for 3 or 4 years now and they are starting to show a little age. But I will go on how they currently are.

If I run full throttle on a open dirt road nonstop around 10-12 minutes I think. But if I am running on one of our tight rally tracks where speed is not used a whole lot anywhere from 20- 40 minutes run time. This is also based on the weather.

For example if it is wet the water and mud will stick to the car and cause the batteries to drain a little faster due to the added weight taxing the motor. If it is too cold I have also noticed the batteries don't last quite as long. And if its too hot I notice the I end up thermaling before I make it through a battery. :ror:

My car is happiest around 60 degrees in dry loose conditions.

I am happiest when it is a wet mess. :ror:

Hope my rambling helps.
 
If I didn't want to look for this front belt mod and I traded you my rear belt tensioner mod would you direct link me ;-)
 
Finally broke my front suspension mount holding the A Arms in, time for the Tamiya Aluminum upgrades!
 
as you guys can tell i just registered and the reason i did was because of this thread. i have the xv-01t variant and wanted to learn more about the the xv-01 chasis in general.

i'm not done backreading the thread but i just want to go ahead to thank Turtle for the stuff you're posting here! :)
 
Thanks Turtle for the battery info it was exactly what I needed to know. Thanks again.

Glad I could help!

as you guys can tell i just registered and the reason i did was because of this thread. i have the xv-01t variant and wanted to learn more about the the xv-01 chasis in general.

i'm not done backreading the thread but i just want to go ahead to thank Turtle for the stuff you're posting here! :)

Thanks for coming, thank you for the tremendous compliment and I hope we can answer any questions you have. "thumbsup"

How'd the VW Golf turn out Turtle?

Ugh. I just moved a couple weeks ago, been building some crawler chassis' and am 500 miles from home for a couple more days right now. So basically I have not finished it yet. :ror: I hope too soon though. Still trying to get my new workshop situated.

Thank you everyone else for the compliments, suggestions and props. "thumbsup"
 
finally got to finish the whole thread and now my shopping list is full. lols!

but first i got to run my asterion to death so i have reasons to replace the parts. haha

ty, do you have night action shots for the lights that you made? thanks!
 
So I have wanted to do a night rally for a while now. About a year ago I picked up a ABC Hobbies Light pod. Well today I finally cut it out and started painting. It is made for a Mitsubishi Lancer, but fits this body pretty well.


The lens are still drying but this gives you a pretty good idea.



It comes with the lower ones as well, but I will probably just run the body lights and the four central lights.


_MG_1256small_zps205d497e.jpg


_MG_1255small_zps8f249891.jpg





Next up is too finish painting the light buckets, then wire some lights up! I will also probably do a dedicated body for the lights so I can leave them on all of the time.

Yours seems to be a nice fit around the bonnet there. I had mine cut for my lancer. Have now decided to fit them to a different shell, which needed more cutting. Hmm, more cutting, more cutting, more cutting - Nothing left, in the bin. :evil::oops: Might have to buy myself another set.
 
ty, do you have night action shots for the lights that you made? thanks!

I don't, but hopefully I will get some one of these days.

Yours seems to be a nice fit around the bonnet there. I had mine cut for my lancer. Have now decided to fit them to a different shell, which needed more cutting. Hmm, more cutting, more cutting, more cutting - Nothing left, in the bin. :evil::oops: Might have to buy myself another set.

Damn thats a bummer! At least they are not too expensive.

Decided to paint another body last weekend. I had some issues with the blue, it was a transparent Pactra blue, it was really thin and just wanted to run no matter what I did. I will slap some big stickers on the doors later.











I also diced up some tires. I will see if they work in the next couple of weeks.
 
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