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Trump's BA Axial Jeep G6 build with a twist.

@Trump1, where did you get the project box? How does it mount into the truck?


Sent from my iPhone

See Hotrodvw's reply.

nice work on the electronics (as usual) "thumbsup"

Thank you.

Radio Shack "project boxes". They're pretty cheap. I used double sided tape on mine to the rear cross member.


Yes, Radio Shack calls them Project Enclosure. I will also be using double sided tape to hold it down. Right now it's just sitting there.

Thank you for all the comments.
 
Would it be redundant to put the electronics in balloons and then dip the project box? I know there's several different water proofing methods. Is there such a thing as overkill?


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Would it be redundant to put the electronics in balloons and then dip the project box? I know there's several different water proofing methods. Is there such a thing as overkill?


Sent from my iPhone

Yes, it would be redundant. However, if it gives you more confidence and peace of mine, then go for it. It's only a little more work. Although, the way the wires are on the ESC it may be hard to get a balloon secured around the ESC. I think you would have to run all your wires out from the same side of the Project Box. Unlike the way I did it.

Its a real good feeling to run in water and knowing your electrons are protected. "thumbsup"

I don't plan on diping the box. Instead I'll seal the box with silicone. I hope this helps you.
 
I assume you just run a bead around the seams of the box? I'm new to this so please forgive my lack of knowledge.


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I assume you just run a bead around the seams of the box? I'm new to this so please forgive my lack of knowledge.


Sent from my iPhone

No problem. Basically, I'll apply silicone on the top/cover. When I secure the cover the excess silicone will ooze out. Then I'll wipe the excess off. After it sets, a day or two, I'll apply some more along the outside and another (third) application where the wires come out.

I already applied two coats of silicone where the wires come out. Letting it set between coats. I guess a tihird coat won't hurt.

If you have anymore questions let me know and thank you for following my build.
 
This thing is lookin' great Trump. I'm a bit jealous LOL
Do you have any concerns about the esc not being able to cool properly being in the box? I just plastidipped mine. Worked like a champ.
 
@Trump1, what are your thoughts on the gear head rear suspension relocation kit?


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I have no personal knowledge using the Gear Head rear suspension relocation kit. Although I have seen it installed on a G6 and other rigs. It appears to provide more articulation. If I recall correctly the G6 user had to make some modifications to gain the extra articulation. I faintly remember something to do with shock lengths.


This thing is lookin' great Trump. I'm a bit jealous LOL
Do you have any concerns about the esc not being able to cool properly being in the box? I just plastidipped mine. Worked like a champ.

It should be OK. I have seen others with a similar setup. Don't be jealous your Jeep G6 looks sweet too.

Plasti Dip is so smelly. My son bought some and I used it one time. That stuff stinks. My son recently bought some liquid electrical tape. I haven't had a chance to use it yet so I can't say much about it. He hasn't complained about using it.
 
I have no personal knowledge using the Gear Head rear suspension relocation kit. Although I have seen it installed on a G6 and other rigs. It appears to provide more articulation. If I recall correctly the G6 user had to make some modifications to gain the extra articulation. I faintly remember something to do with shock lengths.

@Trump1, what are your thoughts on the gear head rear suspension relocation kit?


Sent from my iPhone

I have the kit on one of my SCX10's and IMO I like it.I used it because the drop bed on the mojave body.I feel it works great. Some people don't because is sways from left to right a bit to easy unless you have super stiff springs in the rear. And it really helps if your rear shocks are shorter then your front ones.The scale look it gives is a plus.And if your building or have a truggy it'll take away the rear shock hoops so you have more options with building the rear tube chassis. I hope this helps ya out...Sorry for hijacking your thread buddy..:mrgreen:
 
I have the kit on one of my SCX10's and IMO I like it.I used it because the drop bed on the mojave body.I feel it works great. Some people don't because is sways from left to right a bit to easy unless you have super stiff springs in the rear. And it really helps if your rear shocks are shorter then your front ones.The scale look it gives is a plus.And if your building or have a truggy it'll take away the rear shock hoops so you have more options with building the rear tube chassis. I hope this helps ya out...Sorry for hijacking your thread buddy..:mrgreen:

No problem or apology needed. I didn't know to much about it so I also appreciate the information.
 
Well, it's hard to believe from looking at the following photo, but I finished the wiring. At least the connections. Unfortunately, my winch doesn't work. So tonight I'll do some trouble shooting to see if it's the winch, controller, or a bad connection. Although I soldered all the wires.

Here's the mess I made. Now I have to clean it up.

20140416_185437-1.jpg




I went ahead and setup some initial settings on the RS Gen 2. Once I run it, I can fine tune it some more.

%255BUNSET%255D.jpg


I also set up my 4PL for the DIG.

Futaba%2520switches.jpg


I used the Digital Trim 4 (DT4) button/switch for the Dig. Push away once, and the servo horn moves 50% and moves the shifter to neutral so the rear diff free wheels, push it a second time and it moves another 50% and locks the rear diff. Pull back on DT4 twice to shift back to the original position. Pull back only once if you want to shift into neutral (free wheeling).

To be continued ...
 
Well, it's hard to believe from looking at the following photo, but I finished the wiring. At least the connections. Unfortunately, my winch doesn't work. So tonight I'll do some trouble shooting to see if it's the winch, controller, or a bad connection. Although I soldered all the wires.

Here's the mess I made. Now I have to clean it up.

20140416_185437-1.jpg




I went ahead and setup some initial settings on the RS Gen 2. Once I run it, I can fine tune it some more.

%255BUNSET%255D.jpg


I also set up my 4PL for the DIG.

Futaba%2520switches.jpg


I used the Digital Trim 4 (DT4) button/switch for the Dig. Push away once, and the servo horn moves 50% and moves the shifter to neutral so the rear diff free wheels, push it a second time and it moves another 50% and locks the rear diff. Pull back on DT4 twice to shift back to the original position. Pull back only once if you want to shift into neutral (free wheeling).

To be continued ...
just a little advice about the dig, make very sure your endpoints are adjusted properly. I burnt up a couple servos learning this. Your builds looking awesome"thumbsup"
 
just a little advice about the dig, make very sure your endpoints are adjusted properly. I burnt up a couple servos learning this. Your builds looking awesome"thumbsup"

Thank you very much for that insight. I appreciate it. I'll be sure to mind my endpoints. Thanks again.
 
A short update:

I did some troubleshooting last night. My winch is working. I checked my winch by making a direct connection to it from the battery and the winch worked. That narrows the issue down to my connections or the winch controller. So tomorrow I'll use my ohm meter to check out my connections.
 
I found out way my winch isn't working. My Hey OK relay winch controllers operate at 6 volts. So when I set my internal BEC from 6 volts to 7.4 volts the controller wouldn't work.

I have some new controllers on the way. I also have a new MIP driveshaft (part 09137) on the way. The driveshaft I modify didn't workout when fully compressed.
 
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