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SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips)

Some more corrections for the manual.

F4: M3X12mm countersunk = x6. Parts legend says x4, but the diagram shows x6
F6: M3x12mm countersunk = x4. Parts legend says x2, but the diagram shows x4
F7: M3x10mm countersunk = x2. Parts legend says x4, but diagram shows x2

EDIT: It seems the above is now corrected with the latest revision of the online manual. I was using the initial release online manual.


Something I also noticed.

The panhard mount on the axle has a bigger hole from the front-side than the rear. Intuitively, I would think that the panhard bar mounts from the front of that mount, but the manual says it mounts from the rear. I checked the panhard clearances while cycling the suspension mounting it as the directions say from the rear and it works fine. It just is strange that the hole is bigger on the front-side than the rear before mounting up the panhard.
 
Last edited:
vinnieb729 said:
I've had this same annoying ticking or clicking sound too. I just tried this and the ticking was still there. I ended up removing the .2mm shims and flipped one of the gears 180 degrees on the shaft. Crazily the ticking is now gone.

I'm not sure what it is with these two gears but some combination of shims/flipping a gear around seems to cure it.
Click to expand...

Right, it’s the gears, I tried flipping mine and even timing them since they are identical. The bore isn’t straight in relation to the OD of the gear, measure from the bore to top of tooth in 3-4 places on both sides, on mine they varied .005-.006” and the highs and lows don’t match from one side to the other.
 
Ambis said:
I did have problems. While the other end was lined up perfectly, this is what all my shock towers looked like on the other end:

Oin1icnl.jpg


I had to take my hobby knife to the holes and widen them towards each other. The countersunk screws don't quite line up with the hole, but that's only a tiny cosmetic booboo.

Did anyone else have this?
Click to expand...

JatoTheRipper said:
The Panhard mount shock tower also didn't line up with the holes in my frame. Part of that was because the rear hole was undersized. I had to drill it open. But I will had to squeeze the hell out of the tower to get it to line up with the hole. When you mold parts out of granite, they need to be perfect. Either the shock tower is off or it's the hole in the frame that needs to be moved. Mine was off about 3/4 of the hole. Every other tower lined up perfectly with the holes in the frame.
Click to expand...

Me too, I have problems with holes not lining up both on front and rear shock towers. Front ones are out half hole 1.5mm, the rear ones slightly less, I'd say about 1mm.
The error is on the towers, as frame and crossmembers line up perfectly otherwise.
Yes holes can be enlarged, it's messy to properly cut the recess for the bolt head. But the biggest problem is with the front driver side, because if I follow the shape of the frame to line up the tower, the hole out of position is the front one, not the rear, but enlarging the front one gets out of position the panhard mount. So I'll have to enlarge the rear one to save the panhard mount, even if the tower will be in less than idea position.
I'd really think that Axial needs to modify their tower moulds and line up the holes!
Forcing them pinching the bolts like someone said is not good, the material is hard and rigid and forcing that way calls crack something I fear...
Not happy...
 
Why is there no info on the spring rates? They are definitely a different spring than is on the capra, shorter. You can currently purchase almost every part of the SCX10iii separately, but not springs. No spring rates or options available yet. The red is too soft, similar to the capra purple, and the green seems as firm as the capra green springs.
 
Last edited:
NABeast said:
Why is there no info on the spring rates? They are definitely a different spring than is on the capra, shorter. You can currently purchase almost every part of the SCX10iii separately, but not springs. No spring rates or options available yet. The red is too soft, similar to the capra purple, and the green seems as firm as the capra green springs.
Click to expand...

Did a little research online and came up with the following spring rate data:

Axial SCX10.3 Springs: (13mm X 62mm)

PN Color lbs/in. N/mm Notes
AXI233013 Purple .78 lbs/in. .13 N/mm
AXI233014 Orange 1.00 lbs/in. .18 N/mm
AXI233015 Red 1.30 lbs/in. .23 N/mm Included with SCX10.3 Kit
AXI233017 Green 2.13 lns/in. .37 N/mm Included with SCX10.3 Kit
AXI233018 Yellow 2.50 lns/in. .44 N/mm

The optional springs show as available "Late June" on Tower's website.
 
boldfin said:
Did a little research online and came up with the following spring rate data:

Axial SCX10.3 Springs: (13mm X 62mm)

PN Color lbs/in. N/mm Notes
AXI233013 Purple .78 lbs/in. .13 N/mm
AXI233014 Orange 1.00 lbs/in. .18 N/mm
AXI233015 Red 1.30 lbs/in. .23 N/mm Included with SCX10.3 Kit
AXI233017 Green 2.13 lns/in. .37 N/mm Included with SCX10.3 Kit
AXI233018 Yellow 2.50 lns/in. .44 N/mm

The optional springs show as available "Late June" on Tower's website.
Click to expand...

Interesting.

Cool, thank you. "thumbsup"
 
so I had the clicking, and flipped the gears, but it still sounded like something was rubbing internaly on the case, so back apart it came and figgered out low gear, (the big on up front ) was rubbing the case, it took just a little bit of sanding with a dremel and it was cleared, while i had it apart I went ahead and removed both high gears, then I took a flat file and a smooth finger nail file and gave the dogs on the dig just a little 45 deg. angle off the corners, nothing big just enough to take the sharp edges off, then smoothed it with the fingernail file. I did the sliding dogs and the rear one that was bolted in, didn't mess with the front since it's a sintered gear and the edges were not sharp. I'm thinking this will help with in and out.

the trans is noticibly quieter, not near as quiet as the element trans. though.
 
Ticking noise tranny: solved!

I had the tranny badly clicking, like some of the YouTube videos in which the clicking covers the motor noise.
Tried the 0.2mm shimming on the two gears like described previously in this thread, but no matter the shim or gear orientation the clicking was still there.
Moreover when i removed the tranny, in my hands without motor installed, the noise was strong when rotating driveshaft and keeping my thumb on spur as a load. But tried also to rotate in neutral and the clicking was still there, just barely audible with no load but still there.
So after dismantling the whole tranny again, I found the culprit: the dig steel plate bolted inside the transfer.
It appears the square profile shaft can barely kiss the edges of the cross slots.
I grinded the corners away like in picture below, et voilà! No more noise!

index.php


"thumbsup"

Let me know if this will help any of you
Cheers from Italy
 
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I'm seeing the photo now. I was wondering if doing this would allow the dig to unlock when under load. Currently, it simply will not unlock until you back up to remove the load which, IMO, makes the dig kinda useless.
 
JatoTheRipper said:
I'm seeing the photo now. I was wondering if doing this would allow the dig to unlock when under load. Currently, it simply will not unlock until you back up to remove the load which, IMO, makes the dig kinda useless.
Click to expand...

I have been tweaking trying to get this to work better. Currently I have found that, if I lock the rear, and then unlock and it is not releasing, turning the wheels back and forth fast can release it without having to back up first.

I was watching the video Harley put up on youtube where he mentions possibly a full size servo and all metal linkages may provide the oomph it needs to disengage it when under load.

This is my first RC with dig. Are there others with dig that work better, or is this just due to the gears getting bound up a bit under load, sort of like when wheel hexes are metal on metal and get locked into the wheel?
 
I set mine up as did Harley... same setup on my VS4 with dig.
What I’ve found is using the one switch for 3 positions, middle is freewheeling, when I want to I can go (3P) “ down” and it freewheels, if I want freewheel from locked, I use the 2P switch and then bump the 3P down...not smoothly
I suspect the servo saver is our issue

Hang up and Drive
 
mikemcE said:
I set mine up as did Harley... same setup on my VS4 with dig.
What I’ve found is using the one switch for 3 positions, middle is freewheeling, when I want to I can go (3P) “ down” and it freewheels, if I want freewheel from locked, I use the 2P switch and then bump the 3P down...not smoothly
I suspect the servo saver is our issue

Hang up and Drive
Click to expand...

After I watched the video from Harley I changed my settings for 3P to free wheel. It works great if on flat surfaces with no real load when switching. If I go free wheel and attempt a steep climb the front wheels slip really really easy. If at this point I decide to engage 4WD the rear wheels actually lock up unless I reverse a bit. This is odd since the servo is moving further away from a rear locked position. I have adjusted the position of the servo arm when in free wheel but I cannot seem to get this kink worked out. Now if I am in the same noted situation and switch to locked then switch back to 4WD it works fine....

I say this as when the servo arm is in the middle position the servo saver seems to have no impact. It appears to have impact on either end of the end points. I have never used servo savers or dig before so this may be incorrect thinking on my part.
 
Sounds like wrong EP. I finally set my servo at 1:00 when centered, no sub trim used, this is freewheel. My EP are set at 30/70 and I have full engagement at both ends , no clicking. I use the 2P sw and lock to 4w perfectly


Hang up and Drive
 
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