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SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips)

You are correct but this is the challenge with 2D drawings. It is difficult to point out super clear where these may mount...but if you look at your box and all images of the product online it should be clear that the shocks are on the outside.

Rich

Hello Rich.

Thanks a lot "thumbsup"

Just another remark:
On page 45 the manual shows an AXI235097 screw to fix the sideview mirrors.
This screw is a M2.5x6mm buttonhead screw and does not work with the enclosed plastic washer.
I believe this should be screw #AXI235167 (M2.5x8mm) with a countersunk head (same screw as for the air intake grille).

Regards Roland
 
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When Rich says to use a tap, USE A TAP. Like a moron I thought I could just power through. Now I'm about to drill out a stripped out screw head.
 
Thanks for all the links to the M3x.5 taps BTW guys! Appreciate it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Have a few questions related to the adjustable chassis rails...questions that I'm hoping Rich and/those who've received their kits, can answer.

1) As anyone who's been posting attention to this release knows, the 'stock' configuration is 312-313mm...bur, what is the longest, as well as the shortest, wheelbase the chassis rails can be configured for?

2) As the rails have pre-drilled holes, what are the actual wheelbase lengths the rails can be configured for?

3) (this question is primarily directed at Rich, as he might be the only one with the answer to this question) Can additional holes be drilled in the results, to create a longer wheelbase (I'm assuming the answer to this past will be 'yes'), and, if so, what would be the maximum wheelbase WITHOUT jeopardising structural integrity of the chassis?

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

It is 313mm....i'm finding more typos as the builds continue...seems like no matter how many people look at it and build it...things get missed....good news is that none of these typos are affecting the build.

In regards to the chassis, it is designed to be shortened and not necessarily lengthened. If you lengthen it, you will lose support from the front hole of the chassis rail into the skid plate. Its this particular length so that it can be shortened to 12" and 11.4 with the optional links.

Why didn't we make it so you could make it longer...simply that the majority of the market max's out at 313mm.

Quite frankly as a PD i'm juggling several projects at once, so I don't necessarily have the time to make custom builds on the chassis and try to think of every option that individuals might want...at some point we have to stop and make the call....not calling you at in any way, just trying to provide an explanation.

I'm just having fun trying to remember everything again as i was technically done with the development of this car about 4 months ago... don't get me wrong we are still working on new things for it etc, but this kit itself was done. I'm on stuff for 2021 and 2022 etc. so forgive me when i can't pull everything off the top of my head lol

Rich
 
Next correction point:

The manual shows on page 46 step J-4, middle of the page that the screws for the radiator/grille are AXI235169 - M2.5x12mm countersunk.
That´s wrong.
The right screws are 4 x AXI235167 - M2.5x8mm countersunk, also mentioned on this side.

Regards Roland
 
It is 313mm....i'm finding more typos as the builds continue...seems like no matter how many people look at it and build it...things get missed....good news is that none of these typos are affecting the build.



In regards to the chassis, it is designed to be shortened and not necessarily lengthened. If you lengthen it, you will lose support from the front hole of the chassis rail into the skid plate. Its this particular length so that it can be shortened to 12" and 11.4 with the optional links.



Why didn't we make it so you could make it longer...simply that the majority of the market max's out at 313mm.



Quite frankly as a PD i'm juggling several projects at once, so I don't necessarily have the time to make custom builds on the chassis and try to think of every option that individuals might want...at some point we have to stop and make the call....not calling you at in any way, just trying to provide an explanation.



I'm just having fun trying to remember everything again as i was technically done with the development of this car about 4 months ago... don't get me wrong we are still working on new things for it etc, but this kit itself was done. I'm on stuff for 2021 and 2022 etc. so forgive me when i can't pull everything off the top of my head lol



Rich

It is 313mm....i'm finding more typos as the builds continue...seems like no matter how many people look at it and build it...things get missed....good news is that none of these typos are affecting the build.



In regards to the chassis, it is designed to be shortened and not necessarily lengthened. If you lengthen it, you will lose support from the front hole of the chassis rail into the skid plate. Its this particular length so that it can be shortened to 12" and 11.4 with the optional links.



Why didn't we make it so you could make it longer...simply that the majority of the market max's out at 313mm.



Quite frankly as a PD i'm juggling several projects at once, so I don't necessarily have the time to make custom builds on the chassis and try to think of every option that individuals might want...at some point we have to stop and make the call....not calling you at in any way, just trying to provide an explanation.



I'm just having fun trying to remember everything again as i was technically done with the development of this car about 4 months ago... don't get me wrong we are still working on new things for it etc, but this kit itself was done. I'm on stuff for 2021 and 2022 etc. so forgive me when i can't pull everything off the top of my head lol



Rich

Thanks for the reply...greatly appreciated. As for the structural stability, I can up with a possible way to fix that. Instead of posting all the info again, in here, if you read the there's I created (in the SCX10.3 section, titled "Wheelbase Lengthening Inquiry"), you can read what I'd be considering. My idea allows the wheelbase to be lengthened to the necessary length, and should also maintain the structural stability of the chassis...actually, it might even increase it slightly.

As a 'closing' note on this individual post, I'll just say that, I'm regards to a kit, I'd MUCH rather give my money to Axial/Horizon Hobby than Vanquish. I love Vanquish accessories...but, when it comes to kits, I'm a very big fan of TLR, plus I now have two Capra...my Star Wars Stormtrooper-themed built, plus my just-finished Class 3 rig w/ 4WS. Horizon Hobby brands have a proven track-record, and, as I've said before, the build manual are the best (even with the minor errors).

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]
 
I think there was an extra in the bag, because I just got done tearing it down and rebuilding it and everything is as it should be. Now I'm madder than I was before. Time for a drink!

When Rich says to use a tap, USE A TAP. Like a moron I thought I could just power through. Now I'm about to drill out a stripped out screw head.

Have extra e-clip - check
Use tap - check

"thumbsup"

...at some point we have to stop and make the call....

Rich

I guess that's true everywhere...they always say here at work "at some point we have to shoot the engineer and go into production" ;)
 
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Personally, I would lock it in low gear given the added wheelspeed you will get with a brushless motor.
 
The only typo I noticed so far is in the transmission stage it says 1spead instead of 1 speed.
 
3500 PullerPro has plenty, not sure if I need it all for crawling


Hang up and Drive

That's a beast of a motor. Rich said 11T is the smallest pinion that will work as-is stock if you want to calculate it out.
 
Noticed an area of confusion...... when mounting the transmission ears, make sure the passenger side is installed before all others, the screw is blind after the lower plate is installed.

I also recommend chamfering the dig and shift threaded attachments and prethreading them.....


Hang up and Drive
 
Rich addressed the transmission ear mount sequence in his original post, but the second part is noted. "thumbsup"

What step shows those parts you're referring to since I don't have hands-on capability yet?
 
Is anyone else having issues with the shock tower mounting holes lining up?
Edit: I just found the extra pan hard mount in the body mount bag, I take it if I used this one I would have had less trouble on that part of the build?

Edit 2: Never mind, the extra pan hard mount looks like it’s for a different build version.
 
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