SCX10 II by newIIrocks

[new2rocks]

Great build n2r I can't wait for mine to get here from rpp

Thanks! Notwithstanding some of the early production issues, I think you'll be very pleased.

Now that I've finished everything but the body, here are a few final notes from the build:

Clearance at the right knuckle between the drag link and tires is tight. The Gmade Steelies I'm using for now would rub if using the stock 4mm hexes:


RC4WD Raceline Monsters would clear, but not by much:




Back to the Gmade Steelies, a 6mm hex was enough to do the trick. So check the offset of the wheels you're planning to run and be prepared to toss on a wider hex if needed for clearance.


The rear springs may be a tad on the stiff side relative to the fronts for a stock setup. I have the shock collars all the way up in the back and the front collars cranked down a fair bit to get a relatively level ride height with the large 5200 mAh 3S pack strapped in. Adding weight in the form of metal bumpers, sliders, etc. would change this, of course. Just be ready for the possibility that you may want to play around with spring rates a bit.




That's it for the moment. More to come after guests leave and I can get in some run time. "thumbsup"

 

[BrazinScaleRC]

I am full of jealousy seeing all of these builds popping up here and Facebook while I am patiently waiting for mine.
Have you decided on color for the body yet?

 

[Bmxreeves]

Once assembled, the lockers go into the axle just as on an Ascender. Bearing caps are integrated into the diff cover:

View attachment 343388



Here's a pic comparing the new axle to the Ascender:

View attachment 343389



The new pumpkin isn't quite as compact as the Ascender's, but it's a quantum leap over the old axles.



Time to finish up the axles. Universals look solid:

View attachment 343391



View attachment 343392



Here are the stock knuckles:

View attachment 343390



These don't seem quite as beefy as the stock Ascender knuckles, so we'll have to see how they do. I'm sure the aftermarket will have some options very quickly, particularly since the universals should allow more than the 45 degrees of steering that the stock knuckles/c-hubs permit.



No more flanges that require zero-gravity conditions to install properly:

View attachment 343396



Yay!



One place the instructions fall a bit short is on mounting the knuckles. The instructions insist on 10 degrees of caster but there aren't any obvious reference points molded into the axle or c-hubs. After playing with a couple of different positions, though, I think I have it:

View attachment 343393



View attachment 343394



View attachment 343395





Lockouts were a breeze, leaving me with these:

View attachment 343397



View attachment 343398



The red lower link/shock mounts are a bit flashy for a scaler, but if that's the worst part of the kit, we'll be doing great.



Time to hit the sack. I'll try to get more posted tomorrow and over the weekend.

What's the overall width of these axles, same as the old scx?



1.9 Ibex tuber

 

[Cr00zah]

Thanks for posting all of these details, David. Based on what you've shown:

1. By Scale Police standards, having the tranny bellhousing mounted toward the rear is a major offense.
2. It appears stock battery placement only allows the big battery to be mounted upright? Um, COG anyone?
3. Appears to be very little space to mount electronics inboard of frame rails, and personally I'm not a fan of those frame-mounted wings.

I was very excited to see this new SCX, but I have to say I'm quite disappointed in it. IMHO the axles may be a huge upgrade over the 1st gen, but aftermarket axles are too (and I can reuse my gen I internals). There are many nice touches, such as the al links, (arguably) CMS, shocks, body if you're a Jeep guy.

The shortcomings of this chassis almost seem purposeful to encourage/stimulate the aftermarket - so many things need to be replaced/modified (which is good and bad). And quite honestly it just isn't attractive enough - to me - to drop the coin on the kit, then spend the same amount on "fixing" all the shortcomings.

 

[SCREAMER]

N2R, you put the yellow springs in front and white springs in back right?

 

[JohnnyAnguish]

Good to know about the GMade steelies. I'm a big fan of those wheels. I was thinking of using something else on my SCX-10 II build, but a bunch of my "alternate" tires are mounted on those GMades. I don't want a wide look, so I'll need to keep an eye on this.

Thanks for the great write up so far. I'm about to start my build. This thread will be handy.

Thanks! Notwithstanding some of the early production issues, I think you'll be very pleased.

Now that I've finished everything but the body, here are a few final notes from the build:

Clearance at the right knuckle between the drag link and tires is tight. The Gmade Steelies I'm using for now would rub if using the stock 4mm hexes:
View attachment 343556

RC4WD Raceline Monsters would clear, but not by much:
View attachment 343551

View attachment 343552

Back to the Gmade Steelies, a 6mm hex was enough to do the trick. So check the offset of the wheels you're planning to run and be prepared to toss on a wider hex if needed for clearance.
View attachment 343553

 

[new2rocks]

I am full of jealousy seeing all of these builds popping up here and Facebook while I am patiently waiting for mine.
Have you decided on color for the body yet?

If only standing by the mailbox would make it come sooner...
I picked a burnt orange that I'm hoping will look close to Amber Fire Pearl. We'll see how it turns out.

What's the overall width of these axles, same as the old scx?

New axles look to be 182-183mm pin to pin, +6mm hex to hex with the stock 4mm hexes. I don't have the original width specs handy, but it should be within a mm or 2.

Thanks for posting all of these details, David. Based on what you've shown:

1. By Scale Police standards, having the tranny bellhousing mounted toward the rear is a major offense.
2. It appears stock battery placement only allows the big battery to be mounted upright? Um, COG anyone?
3. Appears to be very little space to mount electronics inboard of frame rails, and personally I'm not a fan of those frame-mounted wings.

I was very excited to see this new SCX, but I have to say I'm quite disappointed in it. IMHO the axles may be a huge upgrade over the 1st gen, but aftermarket axles are too (and I can reuse my gen I internals). There are many nice touches, such as the al links, (arguably) CMS, shocks, body if you're a Jeep guy.

The shortcomings of this chassis almost seem purposeful to encourage/stimulate the aftermarket - so many things need to be replaced/modified (which is good and bad). And quite honestly it just isn't attractive enough - to me - to drop the coin on the kit, then spend the same amount on "fixing" all the shortcomings.

Lol, scale sheriff. A few thoughts:
1. The original SCX-10 never prioritized scale accuracy underneath the shell. Axial has left that to RC4WD with kits like the TF2 and Gelande 2, and to the aftermarket (GCM's forward motor conversion) and/or custom builders. If Axial was shooting for all around performance in an easily servicable package wrapped with a nice, scale-looking Lexan body, I think they hit their mark if the components prove to be durable. And if I were a betting man, I'd put money on GCM (and possibly others) coming out with forward motor conversion kits and other mods to improve scale accuracy for those that are so inclined.
2. I was a bit skeptical about that, but I suspect they partially compensated for that with tranny placement. Also, keeping all of the weight between the rails in theory should help with sidehilling. Or so I've been told by people that know about these things, lol...
3. Funny you mention the "wings." If you really want to stay between the rails, there's plenty of room to mount electronics behind the tranny, and all you'd need are some extensions for your servo wire and battery lead. Re the "wings," I actually like those for a couple of reasons. First, they will help keep dirt and mud from getting up into the cab (though fender wells will help even more). Second, they do provide an option for mounting electronics for those that want to keep things up front as much as possible.

N2R, you put the yellow springs in front and purples in back right?

The directions called for the yellows to go in front and whites in the back, so I followed them. The front seems to be a good match, because you can adjust to get a fair amount of droop if you want. The rears will barely droop even with no pre-load on the spring.

Good to know about the GMade steelies. I'm a big fan of those wheels. I was thinking of using something else on my SCX-10 II build, but a bunch of my "alternate" tires are mounted on those GMades. I don't want a wide look, so I'll need to keep an eye on this.

Thanks for the great write up so far. I'm about to start my build. This thread will be handy.

Thanks for the info on the RC4WD beadlocks as that is what I'm planning on running. Had already ordered some +6 just in case

You guys should be fine. Worst case is running a wider hex to get the clearance.

I will get started prepping the body for painting tonight and plan to put together a little video review this week. In the meantime, feel free to keep the questions coming! "thumbsup"

 

[new2rocks]

Body color preview:

 

[CaptMatt15]

The Orange-Gold color looks great. Not a personal favorite but it came out nicely.

Any idea what winch will fit the best in the front bumper?

 

[ScaleFreak93]

N2R do you by chance have the size of the unsealed bearings by chance? Going on a trip soon and haven't cracked mine open yet and am planning on picking up some sealed ones.

 

[new2rocks]

The Orange-Gold color looks great. Not a personal favorite but it came out nicely.

Any idea what winch will fit the best in the front bumper?

Thanks! I've been liking the RC4WD Mini Warn Winch on my builds because it is closer to a scale size, but I haven't tried a test fit on this yet. I'll get to that this week, so stay tuned.

N2R do you by chance have the size of the unsealed bearings by chance? Going on a trip soon and haven't cracked mine open yet and am planning on picking up some sealed ones.

Good luck finding them right now. They are an odd size...7x14x3.5. I tried a Google search and only found open ones in that size. We'll have to see how they hold up and how long it takes the aftermarket (are you listening Fast Eddy?) to come out with a sealed version.

Have fun on your trip!

 

[redemon]

Arent the open bearings only used in the axles by the lockers?

If so, I think the open way is a nice thing.
U just load them up with grease, and check them on occasion and clean/reapply grease and they should last a while.
Land Rovers used open bearings like that in the axles. Ours would last a while and we did far worse things to it than we do to the tiny trucks

 

[ScaleFreak93]

Good luck finding them right now. They are an odd size...7x14x3.5. I tried a Google search and only found open ones in that size. We'll have to see how they hold up and how long it takes the aftermarket (are you listening Fast Eddy?) to come out with a sealed version.

Have fun on your trip!

Hey thanks buddy, hopefully I'll be able to find them :ror: Now keep building so I can live vicariously through you till I start mine :mrgreen:

 

[honchojoe]

Arent the open bearings only used in the axles by the lockers?

If so, I think the open way is a nice thing.
U just load them up with grease, and check them on occasion and clean/reapply grease and they should last a while.
Land Rovers used open bearings like that in the axles. Ours would last a while and we did far worse things to it than we do to the tiny trucks

I thought the same thing. If they are only used in the diff housing just pack them full of grease. The housings will be fairly water proof anyway I'd think. As long as you grease the axle ends.

 

[new2rocks]

The open diffs are used only inside the axles at the lockers, so hopefully they will hold up as well as they do on 1:1s.

Back to the build. I'm going to be painting the body both inside and out, which will take a few days to finish. In the meantime, I decided that the Baja Claws on Gmade Steelies were a bit oversized for this truck. Plus, the considerable heft of the GMades would distort any initial driving impressions. So it was time to look at a few options.

Starting with the stock 1.9 BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A K02 tires (4/65" OD) on stock 1.9 Method Mesh glue-on wheels (unglued for mockup):


Not bad...

Next up, 1.9 Pit Bull Rock Beasts (4.45" OD) on RC4WD 1.9 Raceline Monsters:


Flashy.

Vaterra Interco TSL SX Super Swamper 1.9s (4.55" OD) on Ascender RTR glue-on wheels (take-off from Bronco RTR):


Flashier. Wait...what was that? Did I just put Vaterra tires on an Axial truck? I must have lost my mind.

Let's try some class 1 tires. RC4WD Interco IROK 1.7s (4.1" OD) on RC4WD 1.7" wagon wheels:


Note those wheels are pin mount, not hex mount, yet still cleared the drag link (barely).

Mystery tire (4.05" OD):


Did my shop just get invaded by Alien Kompounds?!?!?!?!

Since I don't like to run glue-ons but want to run the stock tires, let's try them on some beadlocks. How about on 1.9 GCM Deep Dish wheels:






I think we have a winner... "thumbsup"

 

[avengernut]

Yep,I think I like that look the best on the gcm wheels

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[Generis]

Hey, how do you think those stock tires will work around the steering drag link with this rim offset? did you use the spacers as well? Looks like there's a spacer if I judge by the wheel nut extension... Thanks for the news!

 

[new2rocks]

Hey, how do you think those stock tires will work around the steering drag link with this rim offset? did you use the spacers as well? Looks like there's a spacer if I judge by the wheel nut extension... Thanks for the news!

Funny you should ask. The Deep Dishes clear just fine with the stock 4mm hexes and no spacers:

All of the other combos I pictured above worked fine, as well, including the narrow pin drive Tango Downs. The only one so far that had an issue was the GMade Steelie with 4.75 Baja Claws, and it was easily fixed with a 6mm spacer. "thumbsup"



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[realsickclown]

is that a small crack on the 4 link mount on the front axle, right below the mold seam, behind the screw head?

 

[new2rocks]

is that a small crack on the 4 link mount on the front axle, right below the mold seam, behind the screw head?

Nope. Just a small surface scratch from when I was trying to locate the shock screw. Are your eyes really that good, lol?


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