lonleycreeper
I wanna be Dave
Well today I did a thing
Namely added a sway thing
And a Brace thing.
Namely added a sway thing
And a Brace thing.
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RBX10, RYFT, Scale Rock Bouncer
- Thread starter lonleycreeper
- Start date
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
Lol..."sway thing"..."brace thing"...I like that...lolWell today I did a thing
Namely added a sway thing
And a Brace thing.
~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
Jay-Em
Rock Crawler
Hmmm.. those angled connectors are nice. I got a few different rigs that cluld benefit from those. Mebbe I missed it, but have You got a link?
By the by : Funny. The frontal crash with the new axles -which they survived no problem- was só gnarly, that the compact high-bass speaker from my Turnigy Sound&Led system has ripped it’s conus from the rubber ring. Wow.. No more sound, for now. :ror: Ah well. It was fun while it lasted.
By the by : Funny. The frontal crash with the new axles -which they survived no problem- was só gnarly, that the compact high-bass speaker from my Turnigy Sound&Led system has ripped it’s conus from the rubber ring. Wow.. No more sound, for now. :ror: Ah well. It was fun while it lasted.
lonleycreeper
I wanna be Dave
So after a test drive in the back yard with the new "things", I am impressed!
The Sway bar transformed the beast! it is no longer an uncontrolable monster, but now I can use full throttle without drama! (running 3s here) It still is a terrible handling rig, but it doesn't feel nearly as fast anymore.
The rear link braces, I am calling a durability mod, since I have seen many twisted trailing arms.
Next is a center spool to link both front and rear axles.
The Sway bar transformed the beast! it is no longer an uncontrolable monster, but now I can use full throttle without drama! (running 3s here) It still is a terrible handling rig, but it doesn't feel nearly as fast anymore.
The rear link braces, I am calling a durability mod, since I have seen many twisted trailing arms.
Next is a center spool to link both front and rear axles.
Brake Weight
I wanna be Dave
I didn’t realize it had an open center diff. Pack some Silly Putty into it if you can find it anymore.
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
I used similar angled bullet connectors in my Losi Baja Rey (also running Mamba X), and was planning on doing the same for the Ryft Kit...but, seeing the angled connectors you're using, I'm potentially interested in those (primarily due to the plastic covering).I wasn’t a fan of the big loops of cable using straight bullets into the esc, so found these cool angled lipo connectors and modified them to fit.
Who makes them? Who did you order them from? And, what 'modification' did you have to do?
~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
Obviously, I haven't received the Ryft Kit, as they're not being shipped yet...but, u do have some questions related to the front/rear diffs. First, what is the tooth count on the front & rear diff ring & pinion gears? Second, are they the same 'standard' r&ps used in other axles (such as AR44, AR60, etc)...and, if so, which 'other' axles? If not, which r&ps fit the Ryft's front/rear?
The train I'm asking is because I'm trying to find out if the Ryft already comes with an OD front...and, if it does, what that OD is. And, of the front doesn't already include an OD r&p, what options are available for installing an OD r&p.
~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
The train I'm asking is because I'm trying to find out if the Ryft already comes with an OD front...and, if it does, what that OD is. And, of the front doesn't already include an OD r&p, what options are available for installing an OD r&p.
~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
Curb Crawler
Rock Crawler
These are the angled connectors
https://www.yeahracing.com/angle-type-4mm-and-5mm-connector-plug-wpt-0121-00076201
You need to sand the side of the casings until you have room to fit them
https://www.yeahracing.com/angle-type-4mm-and-5mm-connector-plug-wpt-0121-00076201
You need to sand the side of the casings until you have room to fit them
Everything is new, bigger and beefier then before and nothing from another model will fit or probably survive for that matter. There is no over drive from the factory and if there was the center diff would negate it anyway.
I have the locker installed in the center and rear diffs and left the front open with a full packing of 1million weight diff fluid. It does fairly well at creeping along on some tough stuff. There are times the open diff in the front gets me when a tire gets jamed up but doing it this way has kept a tighter turning radius then when I locked up the front.
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
Thanks...I had forgotten about those. I used to run those on my TLR 22 5.0 SR. Not only should/would these work great with any of the Mambas (and the Copperhead)...but, it also makes the ESC look great.
First, if OD gears were installed in the front diff, the center diff would not 'negate' the OD, as it would have no real effect on only the front diff...especially if the locker is placed inside the center diff. It's a shame that there's (currently) no OD option, as an 8-12% front OD would do quite nicely. Hopefully Axial and/or a 3rd-party will release an OD gear set for the Ryft front diff. Alternately (or, in addition), maybe someone with the spare time, and a variety of spare ring & pinion diff gears, will test out alternates, to see if anything currently on the market will work as a 'light' OD gear set for the front.
Second, the diffs (all three, from what I can tell, based on the exploded views) are all 'sealed' diffs, not 'open' (check the rear diff of the Losi Baja Rey, as that's an 'open' diff). I do get what you mean when you say "open" (when thinking about 1:1 vehicles), but, the correct term would be "limited slip differential".
As for diff fluid viscosities, here's what I'm initially planning on running. Like you (and many others), I'll be running the locker in the center diff. In the rear, I'll be running 2.5M, creating (essentially) an "extremely-limited slip" diff. As for the front, I was thinking something in the 100K-300K, and possibly as high as 500K.
~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
Curb Crawler
Rock Crawler
Treal axles arrived
Curb Crawler
Rock Crawler
I’m running mine with locked centre/rear and the front has a mixture of 500k and diff putty in it
Curb Crawler
Rock Crawler
They all went together perfect, was nice to see oversized bearing used on the pinions, rear outer hub bearing, front outer axle and front outer knuckle bearings. The mesh was good, but I did manage to fit a .2 shim just to set it perfect
Curb Crawler
Rock Crawler
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
This is "weird"...all of a sudden, I can finally see all yours photos. Prior to the Treal axles photo, as I previously mentioned, I could never see your photos...but, with that photo, all of a sudden, I'm finally seeing all your photos.
~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
Curb Crawler
Rock Crawler
No idea, I’ve not done anything different :lmao:
I have a hard time believing that putting overdrive in with a center diff isnt going to have a effect. I have over/ under in my wraith and you can see the back end dragging. With a diff in the center it will affect it.
I get what your saying about the limited slip but the design is a open diff, the 1:1 setup for limited slip is not spider gears with 1 million weight oil in them but it does have a limited slip effect.
I think you will be surprised how free 1 million weight oil lets the wheels turn, especially when it sees some resistance from slow crawling. You get the wheel speed up a bit and it seems to get more stiff. When you are on power trying to get up loose stuff it seems fully locked.
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
I never said anything about OD ring & pinion in the center diff. I explicitly stated it would be for the front, and that I'd be putting the locker in the center. As for diff fluid weights, I said I'd be putting 2.5M in the rear, and probably something in the 100K-300K (possibly 500K) in the front. I've got the Vitavon axles on the way, which will really help lower the CoG...plus, with the Mamba X's "crawler mode", having a slight OD in the front would help if when needing to climb over something (at slow speed).
In regards to the OD, I was thinking something fairly minor, in the 8-12% range...in other words, nothing that would cause the rear to "drag" (a "dragging rear" makes me think of a puppy scooting around on its rear end after taking a #2, to 'wipe' it's butt...lol). The way I'm planning of seeing up the ESC & Tx, Ch.3 will, simultaneously, shift the trans into 'low', and also switch the ESC into "crawler mode". Then, when shifting into 'high', that would also switch the ESC into "rock racer mode". I'll be using a servo Y-harness (taken from one of my boats several months ago) to accomplish this.
~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
"Slow" will probably be less than 25% of the time. All those already owning the RTR, and if be willing to bet there great majority of the time, it's going "fast".
~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
