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RBX10, RYFT, Scale Rock Bouncer

Looks like my kit also came with the original version axle housings. I'm going to run them and see if they break. Still trying to decide on a servo. I'm going to try out the running gear from my old Yeti trophy truck and see if it works acceptable.
As Axial said when the kit was announced, the kit DOES contain axle housings of the original design, but they are NOT the original plastic...they are a more durable plastic. According to Matt (SBG), of you compare them to the original RTR axles, you should be able to tell the difference in materials.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
 
As Axial said when the kit was announced, the kit DOES contain axle housings of the original design, but they are NOT the original plastic...they are a more durable plastic. According to Matt (SBG), of you compare them to the original RTR axles, you should be able to tell the difference in materials.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

Thanks for the clarity. I wonder though, for the RTR wouldn't it just be easier to supply housings of the different material than to change the mold and supply a "version 2"?
 
Thanks for the clarity. I wonder though, for the RTR wouldn't it just be easier to supply housings of the different material than to change the mold and supply a "version 2"?
You'd have to talk to Rick Trujillo (product manager for Axial) about that one.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
 
My 2 speed arrived today, I’m going to build it as per this recommendation off one of the FB groups







I’ll report back my findings later
 
My 2 speed arrived today, I’m going to build it as per this recommendation off one of the FB groups...I’ll report back my findings later
If that works, fantastic. I'm sure plenty of us will be interested in knowing the outcome. Something I noticed - the 'directions' mentioned 2 shims, but the images only show 1 shim. I realize the originator said the second shin might not actually be needed, but the image didn't show where that second shim went.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
 
Just putting it together now, I didn’t see any need for the shims, but leaving out the guide rod is a stroke of genius
 
Just putting it together now, I didn’t see any need for the shims, but leaving out the guide rod is a stroke of genius
I understand the need for the guide rod..but, knowing that the shifting servo IS going to pull left/right (the same can be said for the dig on the Capra & SCX10-III), it would have made more sense to come up with a design that positioned the rod above the "shift" rod, as opposed to left. Having them above/below one another would have probably eliminated the 'binding' when shifting.

That looks good, except for two things. First, the ridiculous price. Second, the "Lubricate every run for optimal performance" requirement. People don't mind doing occasional maintenance (ok, some probably hate it), not they don't want to have to be doing it after every run (FE boats would be an exception). I'll stick to the tried-and-true servo saver 'horn' design. I can buy 3-5 traditional servo savers for the price of one of those.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
 
Last edited:
Works pretty slick





I spent ages setting the end points and really happy with the result, I’ll be running it over the weekend, so I’ll report back then
 
Works pretty slick





I spent ages setting the end points and really happy with the result, I’ll be running it over the weekend, so I’ll report back then
Cool...now, ya just gotta hope (and pray REAL hard) that the SX107 doesn't die on its first/second run. There are very good alternates, such as the Reef's 99, and Power HD TR-4 (which is slightly smaller, as it was designed as a replacement for the TRX4's living diffs). I just installed a TR-4 in my Losi Mini-B, and initial (indoor) testing shows it to be better than the stock SX107 servo. If it proves to move (due to its slightly smaller size), I'll either replace our with a Reef's 99...or, another soon-to-be-released option.....

Soon, there will be a third replacement option - the PowerHobby 59MG - which was designed as a direct SX107 replacement. As soon as it's available, I'll be buying a few, to test in a few different vehicles (including a boat).


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
 
Just got an update from PowerHobby...the 59MG is in-stock. This will fit ANY vehicle using the SX107 servo, from the Ryft & SCX10-III, to the Capra & Mini-T 2.0/Mini-B. However, although their website indicates it fits the SCX24, that is an error that they are correcting (it does NOT fit the SCX24).

Speaking of the Mini-T 2.0/Mini-B (yeah, I know this is off topic, but I thought I would toss it in anyways), PowerHobby will soon be releasing the first 3rd-party battery for these two vehicles. I hope to have more detailed information very soon, which I will post in the "correct" section.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
 
For those interested in the PowerHobby 59MG micro servo (for any of the previously mentioned vehicles l, you can order it here:

www.powerhobby.com/ph59mg.html

As many are aware, PowerHobby also maintains an eBay store. In addition to ordering from their own website, you can also order it through their eBay store. Just now that the same SCX24 'error' is also assisting there. Here are the full specs:

Voltage: 4.8-8.4V - Gears: steel & Ti - Motor: CLS, dual BB, coreless - Size: 23mmx12mmx27.5mm - Weight: 20g
0.13sec & 70oz-in, 4.8V
0.11sec & 80oz-in, 6V
0.09sec & 95oz-in, 7.4V
Specs for 8.4V not listed

The only thing I'm uncertain of us the spline tooth count...tho, knowing PowerHobby, it's probably a 'standard' size 25T. Get the Axial Hi-Lo Servo Saver Kit (AXIC3009), as it contains all three spline counts for the lower piece, plus two different top (horn) pieces providing 3 different lengths (the short born has a single hole, the longer horn has 2 holes).



~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
 
Last update for today....

While it was in bits I fitted a set of Dhawk brake rotors/hex’s and a set of their trailing arms, i reused my Axial arm plates, but gave them a quick coat of black, I’m really happy how they came out

 
finally got mine together last night. hardest part what the final routing of the wires to tie them down. ran it on 2s and was properly impressed. then ran it on 3s and thought it was crazy fast and fun to let it glide over the bumps in my back yard. that was fun until I realized it was still in low gear. STOOOOOOPID fast. I cant imagine this on 4s. I am using a HH 2700kv motor. will probably "downgrade" to a 2100kv.

let the games begin...
 
I’ve double checked and it’s a 13t I have on mine, like you say the can hits the gearbox casing with the 12
 
my 13t won't fit, and the 15t i put on is REALLY loud. although its an axial pinion and is 32p, i could not get the mesh set correctly due to the mounting hole options. ill probably put the 17t back in before i run it next. i really want to gear it down, but don't want to chance another pinion that doest fit well.
 
my 13t won't fit, and the 15t i put on is REALLY loud. although its an axial pinion and is 32p, i could not get the mesh set correctly due to the mounting hole options. ill probably put the 17t back in before i run it next. i really want to gear it down, but don't want to chance another pinion that doest fit well.
I could be wrong, but I think I know what your problem is. I was just searching the HH site, to determine potential pinions (as I'm considering installing the Tekin ROC412 HD 2300kV motor), and I noticed that the 'replacement' pinion is listed as a Mod1, not 32p. As I haven't actually opened my kit yet, I don't know whether, or not, this is correct. Can anyone else confirm whether the stock spur is 32p or Mod1?

Sent from my SM-T970 using Tapatalk
 
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