RBX10, RYFT, Scale Rock Bouncer

[splyn]

I could be wrong, but I think I know what your problem is. I was just searching the HH site, to determine potential pinions (as I'm considering installing the Tekin ROC412 HD 2300kV motor), and I noticed that the 'replacement' pinion is listed as a Mod1, not 32p. As I haven't actually opened my kit yet, I don't know whether, or not, this is correct. Can anyone else confirm whether the stock spur is 32p or Mod1?

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I think you are on to something. Looking at the part numbers and descriptions from the RBX10 kit instructions as well as descriptions for the same part numbers on popular websites (Axial, Horizon, Amain) there are discrepancies between the part numbers and descriptions. The stock pinion has two part numbers which are not consistent and no mention of Mod 1 in any of the descriptions. The spur gear, on the other hand, mentions Mod 1 on some of the websites, but not all, and not in the kit instructions.

Spur Gear: AXI232055
Kit Instructions: No description
Kit Parts List (from instructions): Spur Gear, 53T 32P RBX10
Axial: Spur Gear, 53T MOD 1: RBX10
Horizon: Spur Gear, 53T MOD 1: RBX10
Amain: Axial RBX10 Ryft 32P Spur Gear (53T)

Pinion Gear: AXIC0843
Kit Instructions: (part is listed as AX30843)
Kit Parts List: AX30843 Pinion Gear 32P 17T
Axial: part # not found
Horizon: Pinion Gear 32P 17T Steel 5mm Motor Shaft
Amain: Axial 32P Pinion Gear w/5mm Bore (17T) (photo of part bag shows part number AX30843)

Pinion Gear: AX30843
Kit Instructions: No description
Kit Parts List: Not listed. part is identified as AXIC0843 but uses AX30843 in description
Axial: part # not found
Horizon: (forwards to part # AXIC0843)

When i ordered the other pinions to try, i was using the information in the instructions to order the "correct" pitch. No mention of Mod 1 in the instructions, only on some of the websites. Frustrating...

 

[Panther6834]

I think you are on to something. Looking at the part numbers and descriptions from the RBX10 kit instructions as well as descriptions for the same part numbers on popular websites (Axial, Horizon, Amain) there are discrepancies between the part numbers and descriptions. The stock pinion has two part numbers which are not consistent and no mention of Mod 1 in any of the descriptions. The spur gear, on the other hand, mentions Mod 1 on some of the websites, but not all, and not in the kit instructions.



When i ordered the other pinions to try, i was using the information in the instructions to order the "correct" pitch. No mention of Mod 1 in the instructions, only on some of the websites. Frustrating...

When the Capra was initially released...the first new Axial release since Horizon Hobby completely folded Axial into "the family"...there were similar 'discrepancies'. It took some time, but, over the several months that followed, those 'errors' for worked out. By the time the RTR version was released, all the errors (at least, as far as I know) had been taken care of.

With the Ryft, the releases were done in the opposite order...RTR first, then kit...so, to get the spur/pinion info, I didn't look up the kit info - I looked up the RTR info. For anything kit-related, of you look up the info by using the online RTR info from the Axial or HH sites, you should (hopefully) find the correct info you need.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[JDM74]

I could be wrong, but I think I know what your problem is. I was just searching the HH site, to determine potential pinions (as I'm considering installing the Tekin ROC412 HD 2300kV motor), and I noticed that the 'replacement' pinion is listed as a Mod1, not 32p. As I haven't actually opened my kit yet, I don't know whether, or not, this is correct. Can anyone else confirm whether the stock spur is 32p or Mod1?

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So the part number for the stock pinion gear is listed on Axial's website a 32P 17 tooth pinion and is listed for the EXO Terra Buggy. Assuming this is correct, I would assume the spur is 32P. I have my kit open but don't know how to tell Mod 1 gears from 32P.

 

[Panther6834]

So the part number for the stock pinion gear is listed on Axial's website a 32P 17 tooth pinion and is listed for the EXO Terra Buggy. Assuming this is correct, I would assume the spur is 32P. I have my kit open but don't know how to tell Mod 1 gears from 32P.

Looking at the RTR version on the Horizon Hobby site, it lists spur as being Mod1, not 32p. Going to the Axial site, I also see the Mod1 part. You must be looking at the Kit page...that's exactly why I said to look up the RTR, and not the Kit. Don't go by the part number for the pinion...while the tooth count is correct, the pitch isn't. But, to it IS correct where the spur listing is concerned.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[Druxus]

My 2 speed arrived today, I’m going to build it as per this recommendation off one of the FB groups







I’ll report back my findings later

I was having my transmission slip in 2nd gear as well. I had already taken out the pin which helped the smoothness.

The shim between to e-clip and the gear made all the difference, no more skipping in 2nd. It does appear that the shift fork is hitting the transmission housing before it gets good engagement, I might try to clear it out a bit to see if I can get a bit more travel out of it.

 

[Druxus]

Looking at the RTR version on the Horizon Hobby site, it lists spur as being Mod1, not 32p. Going to the Axial site, I also see the Mod1 part. You must be looking at the Kit page...that's exactly why I said to look up the RTR, and not the Kit. Don't go by the part number for the pinion...while the tooth count is correct, the pitch isn't. But, to it IS correct where the spur listing is concerned.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

Gears are mod 1 gears NOT 32p. I have bought 2 mod 1 gears to slow it down a bit and they mesh great.

 

[splyn]

Looking at the RTR version on the Horizon Hobby site, it lists spur as being Mod1, not 32p. Going to the Axial site, I also see the Mod1 part. You must be looking at the Kit page...that's exactly why I said to look up the RTR, and not the Kit. Don't go by the part number for the pinion...while the tooth count is correct, the pitch isn't. But, to it IS correct where the spur listing is concerned.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

The part number for the spur gear on Horizon Hobby is AXI232055 for both the RTR and kit and the description on Horizon identifies it as Mod 1. However, that same part number on Amain describes it as 32P and is incorrect. Frustrating that some places have incorrect descriptions as well as incorrect part numbers (for the pinion).

Also interesting that Horizon lists a Losi pinion gear (LOSA3577) and not an Axial pinion when looking at replacement parts for the RTR.

 

[JDM74]

Frustrating that some places have incorrect descriptions as well as incorrect part numbers (for the pinion).

Agreed. Good thing there is RCCrawler.com to get the info straight.

 

[Panther6834]

Gears are mod 1 gears NOT 32p. I have bought 2 mod 1 gears to slow it down a bit and they mesh great.

Exactly what I've been trying to explain to JDM74.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[JDM74]

Exactly what I've been trying to explain to JDM74.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

Successfully I might add.

 

[RockCrawlingKid]

Been smashing through the majority of the kit. The metal u joints are poorly made. The cross pin on atleast 2 sets is tapped crooked allowing me to not insert the pin. :/
Lots of metal gears still had burrs and rough spots. I’m calling horizon on Monday. There is a lot of QC issues going on in my kit I can only imagine what others might be finding.

I’ve shimmed the input pinion shafts with 6x8x.1mm tekno shims. Taking the end play out of the pinion gear/ujoint.

Also I’ve shoehorned in the castle 1415 motor. It’s a 3670 sized can. 70mm is the MAX Motor size. I had to grind clearance in the skid plate, not so bad right, the major stop is the lower link rod end. I had to dremel the radius to clear the endbell. Spacing the whole transmission up 5mm would alleviate all these problems. So DIAYOR \m/


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[Druxus]

Successfully I might add.

That response made me laugh. Good job"thumbsup"

 

[Curb Crawler]

I was having my transmission slip in 2nd gear as well. I had already taken out the pin which helped the smoothness.

The shim between to e-clip and the gear made all the difference, no more skipping in 2nd. It does appear that the shift fork is hitting the transmission housing before it gets good engagement, I might try to clear it out a bit to see if I can get a bit more travel out of it.

When I assembled mine there was no room for shim and zero play in the gear

 

[Panther6834]

That response made me laugh. Good job"thumbsup"

Having read of many getting gears with the wrong pitch (for multiple vehicles), just trying to help people not waste time, or money. I made a similar mistake a whole back, in building up my Baja Rey, and, while no money was wasted (returned for 'store credit'), it did end up being 2.5 weeks of wasted time. Just as I don't like wasting food, I also don't like wasting time and/or money...be it mine, or someone else's.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[Panther6834]

Finally started building part of the kit...the shocks...but, not intending to actually use them. From what I'm able to tell, the front shocks are 130mm fully extended, and 85mm compressed. The rear shocks came up 146mm extended, and 95mm compressed. Honestly, I don't even know if these measurements are correct (and, I'll admit, I didn't bother checking the manual to see if the measurements are listed). Strange thing is, 3 of the shocks compress/extend VERY smoothly, while the fourth shock is anything but smooth. Had anyone else (who's built the kit) had their shocks like this?

More importantly...and, the real reason for this post...has anyone come up with alternatives to the Ryft shocks? Due to the longer-than-usual lengths (especially the rear), I have no ideas. Before I knew the actual lengths, I was was thinking the Traxxas GTS...but, not even the rear GTS shocks are looking enough to use on the front of the Ryft. So, what's the best alternate shocks anyone has come up with?


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[StretchMaK]

Finally started building part of the kit...the shocks...but, not intending to actually use them. From what I'm able to tell, the front shocks are 130mm fully extended, and 85mm compressed. The rear shocks came up 146mm extended, and 95mm compressed. Honestly, I don't even know if these measurements are correct (and, I'll admit, I didn't bother checking the manual to see if the measurements are listed). Strange thing is, 3 of the shocks compress/extend VERY smoothly, while the fourth shock is anything but smooth. Had anyone else (who's built the kit) had their shocks like this?

More importantly...and, the real reason for this post...has anyone come up with alternatives to the Ryft shocks? Due to the longer-than-usual lengths (especially the rear), I have no ideas. Before I knew the actual lengths, I was was thinking the Traxxas GTS...but, not even the rear GTS shocks are looking enough to use on the front of the Ryft. So, what's the best alternate shocks anyone has come up with?


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

All four of my shocks came out very smooth so far.

 

[Brake Weight]

Cant remember exactly but the Yeti XL shocks were fairly long and then maybe the Yeti 380 rears for the fronts. They were available as aftermarket big bores at one time.

What about the XMaxx?

 

[Panther6834]

Cant remember exactly but the Yeti XL shocks were fairly long and then maybe the Yeti 380 rears for the fronts. They were available as aftermarket big bores at one time.

What about the XMaxx?

Have you ever actually seen X-MAXX shocks? They're friggin' huge. Here's a photo of one of the X-MAXX's GTX shock.

As for the Yeti XL, I thought about that. Unfortunately, the rear shocks (they're 120mm) aren't even long enough for the front of the Ryft. Pro-Line has the PowerStroke XT, which is the same length (as they were designed for the Yeti XL). RC4WD does have 150mm King shocks, which would easily work for the Ryft's rear...but, they don't have any in the 130-135mm range (for the Ryft's front). Sure, one could use the PowerStroke XT in the front, and the RC4ED King shocks in the rear, but, visually, they'd be an incredibly sad mismatched pair...and, that just won't do. That would be like installing three Mickey Thompsons, and one Gumbo Monster Mudder, on your Jeep Wrangler.

EDIT/UPDATE: I think I have come up with the most probable solution to the shock length problem. As I mentioned, above, the only aftermarket shocks I've been able to find that are long enough for the rear are the 150mm King shocks from RC4WD. These have a single spring. They also have a dual-spring 120mm version. Both of these come with fairly beefy 4mm shafts. Additionally, based on testing from someone else (I think it's might have been RC Review), via their YouTube channel, if I remember correctly, the RC4WD King shocks were, surprisingly, among the best tested. They or also known (again, if I'm remembering correctly) to have among the least leakage.

Here's my idea. Get the 150mm shocks for the rear, and the 120mm dual rate shocks for the front. Additionally, get the dual rate spring sets, which includes softer, as well as firmer, springs for the 120mm shocks. While the 150mm shocks are too long, adding internal limiters would fix 95% of that problem. The remaining 5% would be fixed by replacing the aluminum rod ends with plastic rod ends (more on that in a few seconds).

As for the front, 120mm shocks are, obviously, too short. Replacing the short aluminum rod ends with longer plastic rod ends would 'correct' the majority of that problem. The "problem" is finding M4 rod ends in lengths that are short enough to not lengthen the 150mm shocks, as well as longer lengths that will lengthen the 120mm shocks by at least 5mm. At same time, these alternate rod ends need to be able to accept either the stock Delrin rod end balls, or stainless steel rod and balls (such as Traxxas) that still fit between the 'mounting posts' on the front axle, and rear trailing arms. Anyone have any suggestions for these rod ends & rod and balls?


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[JDM74]

The rear threaded shocks on the Traxxas UDR are 139 mm. Not sure if that is long enough or if the springs are soft enough.


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[Panther6834]

With the stock rear shocks being 146mm, unfortunately, those UDR GTRs probably wouldn't work...but, as I was just about to provide another shock-related update, I'll post it in this reply comment.

I just got off the phone with Traxxas. Initially, I had called them about rod end options that might work with the RC4WD King shocks...essentially, a shorter length rod end to go on the 150mm shocks, and longer (preferably with a length of 10-15mm longer than the rod ends that would have gone on the 150mm shocks) rod ends to go on the 120mm shocks. During the conversation, the person I was speaking with had an idea. Yes, there are 139mm (threaded & non-threaded) GTRs for the UDR, which, as mentioned above, probably wouldn't work. That's not saying it won't work...only that it probably wouldn't, as adding internal limiters (to keep some oil under the piston when fully extended) would shorten it even further (137-138mm, which is 8-9mm shorter than the stock rear shocks).

However...here's where the possibilities starts to improve...Traxxas does have 134mm (threaded & non-threaded) versions, as well as a non-threaded 160mm version. Starting with the Ryft's front, the 134mm threaded version would probably be a better choice. Adding 4mm of internal limiters, and they're the same length as the stock front shocks. My only 'worry' is the diameter - I don't know if the diameter is large enough that the cage might interfere, note have I just determined whether, or not, that area of the cage can be modified (ie. remove material, without degregating its structural strength).

Moving to the rear, while there's a slight...probably VERY slight...possibility that the 139mm version could work, the 160mm version (with internal limiters) would be so but guaranteed to work. Now, I'm not suggesting adding 14mm worth of internal limiters...4-6mm worth should be enough. To further limit the extended length, to limiting straps could be added between the rear axle & cage (would just need to figure out 'where' to attach them on the cage. Being non-threaded, some other way would have to be figured out for adding preload.

While I would mind (too much) having to go with the RC4WD King shocks, I REALLY like the idea of being able to use Traxxas GTRs, as they're among the best shocks available. It seems obvious that the GTRs would easily work/fit the rear...but, in regards to the front, does anyone having the Ryft also have 134mm/139mm GTR shocks that can test, to see how well they for the front of the Ryft?


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place