Official MTB / Mountain Biking Chit Chat

[northkona]

V brakes are totally good.

How about Onza cantilevers? Those were sweet.

Yep , nothing wrong with a good V brake setup.
I have a bad memory of those Onza HO cantis , all the pros were running them and the useless cam style cantis on my Super V were useless, I needed an upgrade and they were the best around. I forked out a ton of cash for those things (around $350 I think ,we really get screwed here in Australia for anything out of the US) and about a week later V brakes were released......... then I got taken out in an XC race and snapped one of the vertical alloy posts ! Haha , not a good relationship with the Onza's !
Talking about getting screwed for MTB parts , my gen1 Rockshox DH set me back $1400 when they first came out , and only just better than the Headshock on my Super V !

 

[EeePee]

I had Ritchey red pads on one end, and black pads on the other and I absolutely loved those Onzas. Completely tweakable to the point of insanity. I mean really, you tweak those things til you were blue in the face! Even where you put the thing that the cable pulled on in the middle before it Y'd off to the brakes would make a difference. Tweaker's delight, they were. Maguras were just like, HULK SMASH!

Then V brakes happened and life as we know it changed.

Then disc brakes were like, V brake, shut the **** up and move over. Bent wheels? What? Never heard of it... Water on the brake surface? Never heard of it.

 

[rupps5]

I have some avid tri-align 3 and ultimate levers. That i was going to post up for sale. They have the same adjustability as the onza's. Check em out

 

[rupps5]

One last picture of desert riding before I have to get back to the real world.

 

[rupps5]

I have some avid tri-align 3 and ultimate levers. That i was going to post up for sale. They have the same adjustability as the onza's. Check em out

 

[hpiguy]

Fork is on it's way back to Manitou, we'll see what happens.

 

[rupps5]

Hpi did you have the magnum pro or comp?

 

[hpiguy]

I went with the pro model. I've gotten spoiled by nice forks.

 

[bryco13]

I thought those were Real levers at first! Nice setup either way! I recently acquired a new old stock Gunnar Rockhound hardtail, new as in built in 1999, built up by the bike shop that ordered it, and was wall art ever since. Found probably the last new pair of avid "ti" v brakes and threw them on. Can't decide if I want to go fully geared, 1x10, or ss.

 

[hpiguy]

Got my fork back from Manitou today, and it still doesn't seem to be fixed. Guess they didn't learn from years past. They also did not return the original box (in which I had packed up all the stickers, etc that came with it in case it was to be replaced), shoved everything into a plain brown box, wrinkled all my extra stickers, etc. I wonder if they actually even touched it. :roll:

 

[Natedog]

Fawk sounds like Manitou has not changed their ways or learned how to do proper repairs and customer service, that's why I won't buy anything from them. Sorry to hear of your problem, hope Manitou makes it right, good luck and update us.

 

[hpiguy]

I avoided calling them today so I could look the fork over better after work. Glad I did that. On further inspection it appears they put some small gouges into my LS compression adjuster, and chipped a small chunk off of my air cap as well. I'll contact them tomorrow though.

 

[bryco13]

That's totally unacceptable. I'd ask for an RA number and be sure to inform them how it was shipped, and returned in worse shape than sent in. You're not being unreasonable in your expectations and they have a warranty service for a reason.

 

[Natedog]

That's a damn shame, I'd hoped that Manitou had turned things around, I'd document everything with pictures, get an RA (they should pay shipping) and return me a new fork in full retail packaging like I sent them. RockShox was very good the one time I had a warranty issue on a fork, I went through LBS where I bought the bike and RockShox sent a brand new fork in the retail box back! Shop did the full swap out and adjustment only charged like $35 for labor! 8)

 

[hpiguy]

Yep, at first, I was annoyed that my new fork had issues. But, I'm an easy going guy, and everyone makes mistakes. So I gave them a chance to fix it, and they chose not to. Now I'm truly pissed off. You can bet everything will be well documented, and photographed. I've posted a constant stream of updates over at MTBR as well, so I have that for documentation too.

 

[Natedog]

X2 and agreed.

 

[rupps5]

Yep, at first, I was annoyed that my new fork had issues. But, I'm an easy going guy, and everyone makes mistakes. So I gave them a chance to fix it, and they chose not to. Now I'm truly pissed off. You can bet everything will be well documented, and photographed. I've posted a constant stream of updates over at MTBR as well, so I have that for documentation too.

Link to thread on mtbr please

 

[hpiguy]

Link to thread on mtbr please

Here you go, starts on this page. I'm HPIguy over there too.

http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-plus-bikes/manitou-magnum-27-5-29-fork-impressions-971720-4.html

 

[EeePee]

That thread is more nerdy than this place.

 

[rupps5]

Hpi I read through your thread on mtbr.

Couple of notes that I wanted to throw out there:

-The fork specs don't show a lock out setting. The adjustments on the fork are Air Pressure, LS Compression, Incremental Platform Adjust, Hydraulic Bottom Out,Rebound and I am sure you know this. In general fork function lock out is achieved when the lsc is closed off forcing the oil to go through the high speed compression circuit. The high speed circuit is managed by the shim stack. If the first "stage" of the stack, usually just the face shim with stock mtb forks is thick enough the fork will be locked out until it hits a big enough object where the force of the oil is strong enough to bend that shim. If the face shim is not strong enough to hold back the oil then you won't have lock out. Either way you can change the shims in the stack so you can have lock out. If you stick with the fork and are interested in shim tuning let me know, I can help with that and can send you shims to try out different tunes.


-did you try taking off the air valve either by removing the core or removing the whole air cap? That way you can measure how much travel the fork has and check for smoothness of travel manually without the air spring interfering.

-I have found that ALL fork manufactures don't ship their forks with the proper amount of oil in them. One of the first things I do when getting a new fork is to check the oil level on the dampener which is usually fine. Then drain and refill the splash/bath and float fluid. When checking the float fluid is when the air cap is removed and travel smoothness and travel are checked.

HPi you may know all this but the info might be helpful to others too...