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Official MTB / Mountain Biking Chit Chat

Anyone here still have/ride any older xc stuff? I'm aware of the technological updates over the past years, but I still have a soft spot for old school cool bikes. Anyone have any pics of their classics?
 
Just passing along,what seems to be,a dang good deal!!!!
Blueskycycling.com
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im not sure how good those brakes are cuz i still like mechanicals,but it just seems like a killer deal for hydro's
 
I have some 3's. They aren't the best and they aren't the worst. I'd save up for the 5's as they're a little better. But almost all avids are noisy and they're going to rub no matter what you do. If I were to spend money on brakes my top 3 would be XT's, SRAM Guide, and then Deore. If I wanted more power I'd get Zee's. And all of mine would be 203mm rotors.:mrgreen:
 
I'll take BB7's over Elixirs. At least with the BB7 you know what you're getting, it seems with the Elixirs it's a crap shoot.

Chain reaction has Deores with rotors for $66 right now, and XT's for $105 with ice tech rotors.
 
Anyone here still have/ride any older xc stuff? I'm aware of the technological updates over the past years, but I still have a soft spot for old school cool bikes. Anyone have any pics of their classics?
Here you go, my Dean colonel


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Anyone have any pics of their classics?

This was late 90s. Specialized Rockhopper with Manitou 4 and two flat tires in downtown Cleveland. Damn those steps.

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There's those blue grips I was talking about.
 
Went for a ride today and the trails were really muddy. It's been 2 days and they were still sketchy. Found out that the trail I was riding on was mostly clay with a little bit of sand in it. So sticky. Also at crap in a really steep turn. I had my gopro on and I think I got it on vid. I have to convert it though and that's going to take forever.:roll:

Strava: http://www.strava.com/activities/226511690
 
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I've heard avids are a little harder to bleed too than some of the other brakes.

Personally, I think they're cake to bleed, but I've owned a couple of different sets and have learned the bleed procedure well. Shimanos are way easier, though. The newest version of the Deore brakes is one of the best budget brakes I've ever encountered. For the price, they're hard to beat IMO.

For you vintage MTB lovers, my coworker and I were drooling over this site today:

The Collection - Vintage Mountain Bike Workshop
 
Took the fat bike on it's first real ride today out at Tsali. Trails were wet from the rain the past couple days, but only in places. The rest was covered (as always this time of year) in about a three inch carpet of wet decomposing slippery leaves. I really felt like I was struggling, big time. I don't know if it was the damp soft ground sucking more energy out of me, or the fact that the fatty tires are essentially the same OD as my 29er so I'm mashing a taller gear, or what it was, but man I felt like I was suffering a lot. But, the bike did very well. I upped the front tire pressure to 12psi before this ride, and all the weird traits of the fat tire are now gone, and it rails, especially on days like today. AND, I did make some techy stuff I haven't done on any other bike FWIW. I had a couple of people ask about it, and if it helped with traction, etc. In the end, it's better than sitting on the couch, and there were still fun parts.

Pics

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The goods

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Just passing along,what seems to be,a dang good deal!!!!
im not sure how good those brakes are cuz i still like mechanicals,but it just seems like a killer deal for hydro's

The 1 series has no adjustments. It's the hydro equivalent of the BB5. It's actually OEM spec, those brakes are probably from a bike that is parted out.
 
Took the fat bike on it's first real ride today out at Tsali.

P1000204Large_zpse57741da.jpg

You bought the model with 4" wide tires, right? Mind doing me a favor?

I was reading up on MTBR's forums about this bike, it was mentioned several times that this bike uses standard dropout widths front and rear, 100mm and 135mm. It was also mentioned that it uses a standard 68mm bottom bracket, and they spec some kind of crazy offset crank to get the clearance. Is that true?
 
You bought the model with 4" wide tires, right? Mind doing me a favor?

I was reading up on MTBR's forums about this bike, it was mentioned several times that this bike uses standard dropout widths front and rear, 100mm and 135mm. It was also mentioned that it uses a standard 68mm bottom bracket, and they spec some kind of crazy offset crank to get the clearance. Is that true?

Yeah it's the 4" tire SS model. From my research I think that's pretty common on fat bikes, but I could be wrong. I have a pic at home, but if memory serves it's a 68 x 134 BB. And It's never felt weird pedaling it with the wide Q factor.
 
12 PSI on the front tires? Sounds high to me. I run from 6 to 8 on my FatBoy. I understand the softer the tire the more it absorbs trail imperfections and less energy is transmitted to the frame.

FWIW, I did convert it to tubless and I weigh in at 185
 
12 PSI on the front tires? Sounds high to me. I run from 6 to 8 on my FatBoy. I understand the softer the tire the more it absorbs trail imperfections and less energy is transmitted to the frame.

FWIW, I did convert it to tubless and I weigh in at 185

I started out at 10psi, and it felt really weird and had lots of self steer. How does the lower pressure behave, any self steer or other weird traits?
 
Just got my Framed Minnesota 3.0. First fatbike (my other bikes I think are listed way back in the early pages).

Impressions are:
— Super fun to be able to ride trails 12 months out of the year.
— Truly feel confident on ice, slush and snow.
— Definitely need to upgrade this beast. Cheap drivetrain and brakes. Will most likely do 1 x 10 (like my Trail bike). Get some XO brakes, and a couple new forks.

Great cure for winter blues!

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I started out at 10psi, and it felt really weird and had lots of self steer. How does the lower pressure behave, any self steer or other weird traits?

I too am getting used to the self steer. I'm going to experiment with 11-15psi for the front. 5-8psi in the rear.
 
I don't feel I have too much trouble with self-steer, not like the bars are getting ripped out of my hands like some have reported. I run 8 PSI on hard surfaces and 6 PSI on snow. I have found my fat bike to be much more sensitive to tire pressure than my trail bike. Too low and the self steer gets funky, too high and the ride sucks.

I do run relatively low pressure on my trail bike as well. I have the Derby 40mm wide carbon wheels. I usually run the tires on my Burner at 17-18 PSI front and 18-20 PSI rear.

I like a tire that can run at a low pressure so it can conform to the terrain to provide as much traction as possible; especially in the climbs, some of my local trails are loose and rocky. So finding that balance of low psi without burping or rim damage.

I have been riding bikes for a long time. My first 'real' mountain bike was a 1991 Specialized Stumpjumper. I rode that bike all over the foothills and trails of Salt Lake City until it was stolen in '94. :cry:
 
Congrats tedo!!

Well, I started at 10psi, and had lots of self steer. As you said, not uncontrollable by any means, just felt really weird and it was harder to get the bike to change course. At 12psi if feels like a normal MTB handling wise, but with tons of traction, but is bouncier over roots an rocks being a ridgid. My new tires are here, and tubes will be here tomorrow though, then I get to start over. :mrgreen:
 
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