• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

New Holmes Hobbies ESC spotted: Crawlmaster Mini V1

Somebody told me that "stall protection" doesent do anything useful so I switched it off.Besides that I have the same settings...do you run a snubnose,Yudi ?
 
Last edited:
And according to John in the video the stall protection "...is essentially like a semi rpm lock.... make a weaker motor felt like a lot stronger down low..."

Sent from my Redmi Note 8 Pro using Tapatalk
 
EDIT: From the horses mouth :
"Alka Motors 12 hours ago
The stall protection is for crawlers and ground vehicle what it does is enforce minimum rpm. When the rpm drops below that level it will boost the throttle until rpm comes up to minimum again."
So I think I will switch it on again and see what is happening. 8)
 
Last edited:
EDIT: From the horses mouth :
"Alka Motors 12 hours ago
The stall protection is for crawlers and ground vehicle what it does is enforce minimum rpm. When the rpm drops below that level it will boost the throttle until rpm comes up to minimum again."
So I think I will switch it on again and see what is happening. 8)

Basically that's what John said in the video, I did not quote his full sentence since I don't remember it all when I type, but if you watch the video when he explaining about stall protection that's exactly what he said, the esc will try to maintain the rpm, starting at 11:10

https://youtu.be/Hkc78rt1Oic
 
I have one of my CM mini's on V1.2 now. Runs 4s like a boss with the 1800kv Snubnose and motor is not warm at all.

Lou
 
Sweet...did you monitor temps on 4s? Pinion/Spur ?
BTW..what wheelbase is that car?

Very cool running, the gearing is set accordingly for crawling, pinion/spur numbers only will not give the whole picture and could be misleading, total reduction at front axle 70:1 rear axle 90:1

Wheelbase 12.3
 
I just soldered up the programmer and decided to make a case for it.

The lid is keyed to locate the JST plug and I labeled the ESC (servo) plug slot with a - + S
It requires two M2 x 6 (8 may work too)

Its up on Thingiverse if anyone wants to print one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5023487

PMGO1Hs.jpg


ZK8EvH5.jpg


hL4SpNM.jpg



EDIT: I did have one silly issue when trying to get the Programmer connected. My ESC doesnt have a JST on the power wires so initially I tried to power the ESC with 1 battery and use another for the ground (I know thats not how a ground works :roll: but I tried anyway). It was able to connect but not read the settings. So I made up a adapter with 2 XT60 plugs and a JST lead (I just happened to have a scrap with 2 JST's on it, you'll only need the 1). After that it was able to connect and read "thumbsup"

6ATVZvg.jpg
 
Last edited:
Okay one more thing to add. If anyone else has the 2500kv revolver motors and is unsure whether its a 14p or a 10p I finally figured out what to check. The reson I need to know has to do with the KV limits:

Can someone enlighten me on the KV/pole limitations they listed?

2200kv limit 14 pole (Revolver), 2500kv limit 10 pole (Revolver 10p), 2700kv limit 6 pole and 4 pole (Crawlmaster BL, 6 shooter and Puller Pro)

All of the current HH revolvers are 14 pole

I have a 2500KV (14pole) revolver, would this be over the limit? Im not sure if having more or less poles puts a motor over these limits?

Seems like maybe the less poles there are the higher the KV limit. Any insight would be appreciated

Anyway I picked up a 2500kv revolver leading up this ESC's release only to find out they dont recommend the 14p 2500kv version. Soon after the ESC released they put up a 10p 2500kv replacement which I grabbed. The issue I ran into is they both look identical and dont list the pole number so I was struggling to ID the right one. I tried counting the stator but they both use a 12 slot.

Well silly me, I forgot to count the magnets on the outside of the can. This is where you can count the poles or just comparing the size of each is a good indicator too (smaller will be 14, bigger 10).
 
Last edited:
I don't know if I had too long of a day at work, or what... but my head is about to explode trying to understand how to update a crawlmaster mini.

I bought a PC to program mambas, so I have that stuff... what else do I need besides THIS, to make these work on 4s?...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8453.jpg
    IMG_8453.jpg
    107.3 KB · Views: 346
I’m running a full size 2500kv 10 pole with the crawlmaster mini, and the throttle is quite abrupt and hard to control. It does fine at very slow crawl, but is hard to control when you up the speed a bit.
 
I’m running a full size 2500kv 10 pole with the crawlmaster mini, and the throttle is quite abrupt and hard to control. It does fine at very slow crawl, but is hard to control when you up the speed a bit.


I found 2500kv to be a bit too fast on 4s even when I geared it down a ton, I switched to a 1000KV which was a better match for my setup.

Have you played around with the programming? Did you also update to 1.2? (update link is on the product page at the bottom)



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hkc78rt1Oic


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Hkc78rt1Oic" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>



I found the Sinisoidal startup annoying, sure it will start up slower but there is a harsh transition from low to higher speed. I just found it better to avoid that transition YMMV.
You might also play around with the startup power too. I tried to adjust startup power to work better with Sinusoidal startup but couldn't find a better setup than just turning off sinusoidal startup.
 
Last edited:
I found 2500kv to be a bit too fast on 4s even when I geared it down a ton, I switched to a 1000KV which was a better match for my setup.

Have you played around with the programming? Did you also update to 1.2? (update link is on the product page at the bottom)



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hkc78rt1Oic


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Hkc78rt1Oic" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>



I found the Sinisoidal startup annoying, sure it will start up slower but there is a harsh transition from low to higher speed. I just found it better to avoid that transition YMMV.
You might also play around with the startup power too. I tried to adjust startup power to work better with Sinusoidal startup but couldn't find a better setup than just turning off sinusoidal startup.

I’ve played around with different setting. Did som adjustments on my radio now, and that seems to do the trick.
 
Got trouble with my crawlmaster mini again. The esc suddenly stopped working like normal. The motor stalled, and won’t start again. You can hear the motor cogging, but it will not drive. When I disconnected the battery and powered up again, the startup sound won’t work. But the motor and esc got power, and the motor coggs when using the throttle. Tried to Flash the software again, but that did not work. The esc was cold when it stopped working, so no termal issues. Any suggestions for troubleshooting?
 
Back
Top