I have bought one, other than some soldering that required (and some connectors of your choice), you still need to program it correctly for crawler since the settings it comes with is way off (it won't arm with its default settings). So you should have the programmer and know how to do it. But at least it removes one of the biggest obstacle in adopting this type of esc.
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Silent outrunner and ESC for less then $60
- Thread starter Voodoobrew
- Start date
I have bought one, other than some soldering that required (and some connectors of your choice), you still need to program it correctly for crawler since the settings it comes with is way off (it won't arm with its default settings). So you should have the programmer and know how to do it. But at least it removes one of the biggest obstacle in adopting this type of esc.
themountain
RCC Addict
Well...checking the configuration is a must with all those ESCs...even with the HH.
With what rig did you test it ? How does it behave?
With what rig did you test it ? How does it behave?
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The rig intended for this esc itself is still work in progress (still waiting for rear link, servo, rx, drive shaft and body), but I do bench test the esc after correcting the config with it's intended motor (Riot SS 1850kv), seems a bit of stutter when start in sine, but then again it is "no load" test (the motor even not connected to gearbox) so I will wait for it to be a complete rig and do further setting before pass any judgement for the esc. I might even add heatsink in the future if I need to bump up the sine power to overcome the sine start stuttering.
Sent from my Redmi Note 8 Pro using Tapatalk
Sent from my Redmi Note 8 Pro using Tapatalk
themountain
RCC Addict
Looking good "thumbsup"....I recommend a heat sink...mine all have one and even a micro fan. What BEC are you running? Thats a lot of cables on the battery side of the ESC :shock:
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Yeah, all those cables are:
JST for my direct servo
Small bullet connector (forgot 2.5mm or 2mm) for BEC, the plan for now is just a small one since it will only powering the RX, but it will be flexible for any upgrades
XT60 for battery
Another JST (which I bundled with the signal wires) goes to my RX (plan for RadioLink R7FG) which will send the battery voltage info to the TX
themountain
RCC Addict
:ror: Noice...telemetry included...thats the way to go !! Keep us posted how it works..I am still on the brink to order one but I dont have a rig for it:mrgreen:...my wife is killing me when I build another one with no good reason...lol
Well it really is the feature of RadioLink RX (R7FG) not the esc, they even included an XT60 to XT60 adapter with JST pigtail in every R7FG unit they sell to allow user to tap the esc to lipo power line to the receiver for battery voltage info. I just hate the look of the adapter and solder another jst directly to make it cleaner. I have 4 rig equipped with this RX and in every single one of them I solder the jst directly to either the esc (HH CM v1 and v2) or the battery plug (Mamba X and SW4) and it works great, can see the lipo voltage at a glance and can see how much the voltage drop on a punch.
On the telemetry side of the esc, I read at the slack Alka commenting on using the telemetry function of the esc for auxiliary drag brake setting (ala Mamba X I presume), but I have not figure out on how to do it, perhaps by adding another RX plug with only the signal wire connected to one of the channel that use potentiometer on the TX. He wrote that HH CM v2 implement this, but Holmes themself does not publish this feature (yet)
Sent from my Redmi Note 8 Pro using Tapatalk
Hello, I've been reading and doing a lot of my own research but NOW I need to ask. I figured out how to flash, config and do all that good jazz on my own and at times I wanted to give up, nonetheless I figured it out. Now I have stumbled across something that I can't fix.
Using a 45a emax ESC and and running it on various outrunners from a 540 revolver, to a snubnose and a 29mm Team Brood. I keep getting a violent hesitation between sine mode and normal mode transition. If I keep the throttle during that transition, the motor literally sounds like a machine gun spinning and stopping really fast.
I tried increasing/decreasing: startup power, sine startup mode, and sine power (mainly turning it down because I know if you turn it up it WILL get HOT) with no luck.
I have a buddy that tried helping me over facebook and stated to flash an older firmware (like 1.64) through the config tool using the arduino and then reflash to the newer 1.88 or 1.89 firmware, tried that, still no luck.
Has anyone come across this, if so what was the remedy or is there a fix? Thank you in advance. (I'm really starting to think its a faulty ESC)
What I'm using in the ESC: bootloader V11 PA2, firmware AM32_FD6288_1.89.hex (file for BLHeli 45a formula ESC) and eeprom_version_1_7c00.bin
Plus 1.82 Config tool
Using a 45a emax ESC and and running it on various outrunners from a 540 revolver, to a snubnose and a 29mm Team Brood. I keep getting a violent hesitation between sine mode and normal mode transition. If I keep the throttle during that transition, the motor literally sounds like a machine gun spinning and stopping really fast.
I tried increasing/decreasing: startup power, sine startup mode, and sine power (mainly turning it down because I know if you turn it up it WILL get HOT) with no luck.
I have a buddy that tried helping me over facebook and stated to flash an older firmware (like 1.64) through the config tool using the arduino and then reflash to the newer 1.88 or 1.89 firmware, tried that, still no luck.
Has anyone come across this, if so what was the remedy or is there a fix? Thank you in advance. (I'm really starting to think its a faulty ESC)
What I'm using in the ESC: bootloader V11 PA2, firmware AM32_FD6288_1.89.hex (file for BLHeli 45a formula ESC) and eeprom_version_1_7c00.bin
Plus 1.82 Config tool
themountain
RCC Addict
double post
themountain
RCC Addict
Hi
be part of the AM32 group on slack...certainly somebody can help there"thumbsup"
https://am32-invite.herokuapp.com/
Appreciate the feedback I'll try to go in there.
Meanwhile, if anyone else has any feedback I'm all ears.
It might be the hardware (esc) problem, as any electronics (especially the cheap mass produce one), esc might come with defect component from factory, so if you have tried all the suggestion and can not fix it, this might be the case. Time to move on and try build a different esc.
soze
I wanna be Dave
Posted a message in the slack channel, but I thought I'd post it here as well. I'm using a Emax formula32 45a ESC. Right now I'm just trying to flash it. I can get the STM32cubeprogrammer to see the stlink and upgrade the firmware of the stlink, however when I go to connect to the ESC itself nothing happens. I click "connect" and nothing. No error messages, no connection, etc.
I'm sure I have everything wired up correctly as I followed the instructions, but I'm just not sure what is going on since it just doesn't connect and doesn't give me a reason why. Anyone have any ideas for me to troubleshoot with?
I'm sure I have everything wired up correctly as I followed the instructions, but I'm just not sure what is going on since it just doesn't connect and doesn't give me a reason why. Anyone have any ideas for me to troubleshoot with?
I had this same issue, I had bought a Stcube off ebay or amazon not sure. After doing some reading I found they basically all those are clones and its a small % chance the main board doesn't work with the Program software.
IIRC If the ST Cube doesn't show up as a serial number when you plug it in and try to connect it wont work. My first one only would show up as a single Letter. Mine being F.
I picked up a second one and it had a different chip on the board and it worked perfectly. Then I was able to flash both my 45A formulas.
Hope this helps!
soze
I wanna be Dave
Had some help from Alka on the slack channel. Basically 2 things.
1st was the issue you mentioned above when using stcube programmer. He suggested I use the older stlink software which worked.
2nd was the length of the wires from the stlink to the esc. I shortened them by a half, and re-soldered. That seemed to do the trick.
As long as the ESC doesn't demand the motor to have a sensor, yes.
The ESC doesn't care if the motor is an inrunner or outrunner.
First issue was on Both Softwares, it simply couldn't read the chip that was on the board of the ST Link I had.
2nd, That is a very good point and will be something that I will try if I have any issues in the future.
themountain
RCC Addict
soze
I wanna be Dave
How does this one compare to the EXUAV one and making one out of the emax formula 45a?
Is it just the amperage difference mostly?
