letrbuk
Newbie
Thanks I didn’t look there
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
AM32 based mini ESC's
- Thread starter Ninja77
- Start date
Yep, and if you look carefully through there you will even find the Aria pre-flashed to AM32 already, making life much easier if you do not have the tooling/software to flash it over.
Keep in mind, the Aria's Do Not have BEC output from the ESC to the receiver. So you'll need a BEC device as well. Personally I suggest any of the Castle RC ones. - They've been absolutely bulletproof for me.
At that point, all you need is any one of the generic AM32 USB programming adapters, like the $13 one from Rhino. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806510760224.html
letrbuk
Newbie
Thanks for the reply. I have a castle BEC already so I’m good to go there.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005006527357577.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.35.23bc1a619XKoDz&algo_pvid=e37aadb5-ff62-4104-83bc-1da9fa97dd16&algo_exp_id=e37aadb5-ff62-4104-83bc-1da9fa97dd16-17&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2116.71%2114.71%21%21%2117.53%2115.43%21%402101ef6817148239650783460e95cb%2112000037541108371%21sea%21PT%21124056211%21&curPageLogUid=lt12nhsip5xD&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
I've bought this one with BEC - bad choice because didn't noticed that the BEC was really weak for rc truck (5V 2A) . I've got a Hobbywing 10A UBEC to fix that.
Had to source a 470uf capacitor and soldered it along the other wires. Wanted to flash the latest firmware but seller refused to disclose what target to use saying it had "the latest" (it wasn't) . It uses the F421
ESC works better than my last one. Only seems to have a weak dragbrake or nothing at all. It brakes when letting off the throttle but then freewheels. Must be the parameters
I've bought this one with BEC - bad choice because didn't noticed that the BEC was really weak for rc truck (5V 2A) . I've got a Hobbywing 10A UBEC to fix that.
Had to source a 470uf capacitor and soldered it along the other wires. Wanted to flash the latest firmware but seller refused to disclose what target to use saying it had "the latest" (it wasn't) . It uses the F421
ESC works better than my last one. Only seems to have a weak dragbrake or nothing at all. It brakes when letting off the throttle but then freewheels. Must be the parameters
I have one of those on my test bench!
Yes, the F421 based AM32 firmware is the one that will work for it. There are a few others, but I'd recommend sticking to the raw F421.
That sounds like the "Stopped Brake" level. In some cases the back EMF of the motor, isn't completely being read by the ESC, so it doesn't know what to apply. Generally upping the stopped brake level (bit by bit to find your sweet/desired spot) is the best approach here.
Yes, the F421 based AM32 firmware is the one that will work for it. There are a few others, but I'd recommend sticking to the raw F421.
That sounds like the "Stopped Brake" level. In some cases the back EMF of the motor, isn't completely being read by the ESC, so it doesn't know what to apply. Generally upping the stopped brake level (bit by bit to find your sweet/desired spot) is the best approach here.
Last edited:
Don't know much about EMF but I'm using plugs on the wires instead of soldering the ESC to the motor. Could that be interfering?
crelesy
Newbie
I also have a AT chip instead of the ST chip on my 25 ish dollar am32 esc from aliexpress.
You need to flash with am32_TEKKO32_F421 versions for this.
I noticed very much differnce in sine mode performance between 1.99 and 1.97 version. And 1.97 is better. Still need to test 2.01
Also like to add that if you use an arduino for connection, let BL heli flash it to 1 way and not 4 way programmer. And check the check box for direct connect.
Took me a few hours to figure that out:shock:
As long as they are decent quality plugs, they won't affect anything.
hello, need some help please. got one of the rhinorc 80amp esc and 9imod 2250 kv motor. is it suppose to be silent? it is in an element bushido stock gearing. but I imagine all the elements are geared the same. mine absolutely howls at more than 50% throttle and screams at 80%+. with the body on, the echo is incredible. at regular rock crawling speed, I can accept it but running indoor like testing is super annoying. running 2s, heat is acceptable but slower than I need. but 3S motor is too hot to touch after 10 min or so. is there way to lower motor heat?
thanks for any insight / parameter adjustments
thanks for any insight / parameter adjustments
As in absolutely silent? No, that is dang near never achievable just due to constraints of using gears, shafts, etc... I don't know the Element Bushido drivetrain at all. That said, in 99% of cases when going up in battery voltage, you need to gear down. "Volt Up, Gear Down". So in 3S usage, the gearing is incorrect, and will absolute cause more heat to build up in the motor and speed controller.
When it's referred to as "Silent" - This is what people mean.
First vehicle in the clip is running a standard ESC, and the Second vehicle is running a "Silent" ESC:
https://youtu.be/duYStpSU4Fk?si=Zx4Q3ASkChpzBQTF&t=611
Last edited:
I have a couple Rhino 80a ESCs and my only real complaint with them is the size. It is a bit harder to fit inside the rails than say a Silent Assassin or something. These forward skid chassis make electronic mounting a little more difficult. I printed a very narrow set of sliders and have the ESC standing up on one.
