Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER

[Natedog]

Good morning Ben, thanks I'm mostly working on the K10 and just wheeling/loaning the K5 Blazer, since the Blazer just flat out works. At MRB Fire and Ice, I drove the K10 (Rockhugger drove the Va'Blazer) I try to only disassemble one truck at a time so that I always have at least one crawler ready to go at a moments notice. All the current mods are being done to the K10, it's currently set at WB2, but with WB4 rear links resulting in a modified WB3. K10 has sideways steering servo mounted to top of servo mounts, Blazer has fore/aft mounted servo below the mounts in stock location.

The aluminum shocks are a little smoother than stock plastic, stronger and look nice. I've not had any problems with the Vaterra plastic shocks, but I've had other brands of plastic shocks rip the cap off and break the plastic upper mounting loop off. I've mentioned the upper mount to Vaterra. There's no fabrication, I like to tinker and improve things when possible, therefore I tried a bunch of different upper mount methods to see which I like best. In the end I used some spare Vaterra ball ends I already had, but could have popped them out of the plastic shocks for zero cost. Thanks, I'm working on my take of the K10 on WB4!

 

[TLR_junkie]

Nate I hope this wasn't covered in your thread but I was curious, does the k10 and the blazer share the same axels?

 

[CODYBOY]

Nate I hope this wasn't covered in your thread but I was curious, does the k10 and the blazer share the same axels?

Yes, all three body styles kits use the same axle."thumbsup""thumbsup"

 

[TLR_junkie]

Yes, all three body styles kits use the same axle."thumbsup""thumbsup"

Thought so but damn the k10 looks so much smaller than my blazer. I know it uses a shorter wheel base but still... maybe it's just that the blazer body itself is just so damn big lol.

 

[Junkk5]

Just a thought, but have you ever tried the swb servo mount with mounting the tie rod/ drag Link on top of the steering knuckles? I have tried it on mine, but the steering arm contacts the Panhard link when compressed. I thought it would be a good way to raise the steering linkage out of harms way, and it looked like the geometry would still possibly work?

 

[fyrstormer]

I tried repositioning the steering link and drag link, but I couldn't come up with a geometry that had less bump-steer than the stock geometry.

 

[Natedog]

Moving both, no. Best I've found is short wheelbase servo mounts with servo on top of mounts, draglink on top of knuckle and tie-rod in stock position under the knuckle.

Yes same axles in all Ascenders.

TLRJunkie, yes the Blazer body is that BIG.

 

[TLR_junkie]

Just a thought, but have you ever tried the swb servo mount with mounting the tie rod/ drag Link on top of the steering knuckles? I have tried it on mine, but the steering arm contacts the Panhard link when compressed. I thought it would be a good way to raise the steering linkage out of harms way, and it looked like the geometry would still possibly work?

I run steering on top of the knuckles and have zero clearance issues.

 

[Natedog]

With my setup, drag link almost touches frame rail at full compression. Pics full droop and compression? Have you limited up travel or?

 

[Junkk5]

With my setup, drag link almost touches frame rail at full compression. Pics full droop and compression? Have you limited up travel or?

I would also like to see how to do this ! I couldn't figure out a way to clearance the frame and suspension to make that work.

 

[TLR_junkie]

Well after going back and looking I can get SOME interference in my steering linkage but not anything that would limit steering. I will add that this is only when I achieve full compression by pressing down on the bumper.

Now with a more realistic simulation, if I lift up the tires one at a time the truck tips over before reaching full compression with no binding. Also I have more sprung weight up front because instead of using the factory stock battery tray mount that attaches to the front axel I eliminated that and mounted my tray straight to the frame.

 

[TLR_junkie]

Nate do you still have your battery tray connected to the front axel? The one thing I have been trying to figure out is how to eliminate the minority of the torque twist without sacrificing its off-road capabilities.

 

[Natedog]

Yes both my Ascenders still have battery tray attached to axle.

Outboard rear AND front shocks like I have. Move upper links up at frame same height as I have, I had them higher and shorter uppers, helped but didn't like pinion movement.

Rockhugger showed me to leave links stock length, undo one link at frame at a time and pivot it up while holding rear axle still. When upper and lower links are parallel, drill a hole and bolt it up. Move opposite sides link to same position! Rear pinion now moves in good manner and no more worries of it going over center on up travel.

 

[Natedog]

Last week was swapping parts around. Notice the matching brownish lines on upper link mount and axle pumpkin where the link was flexing and rubbing on the pumpkin.






Drilled couple holes in mynew Strc black anodized link mount, didn't like either of them. Had to clear my head and think again later. Good ride my friend.

 

[Natedog]

Made an angled inside the housing spacer for the brace screw, still didn't like it. :ror:




Best place and angle to drill at with drill bit in place (centered directly above pinion gear), I prefer to drill careful and slow from the inside and out through the link mount. 2.5mm caphead screw with matching flat washer and locknut, still room for gears and can swap pinions if need be with it in place. This makes the screw penetrate the pumpkin at a proper right angle so that the washer and nut seat squarely inside and spread the load evenly over the plastic housing. There's more room between the locknut and pinion than it loosk in this picture. I thought about using a 3mm screw, but 2.5mm is strong enough and leaves more room to allow for a flat washer and locknut. "thumbsup"








My fiddly little JB Weld external spacer. Yeti.stealth, great job on your spacer, I was not feeling like making more tiny odd shaped spacers especially after already making one for inside the pumpkin, that I then didn't use. :mrgreen: 8)

 

[TLR_junkie]

Yes both my Ascenders still have battery tray attached to axle.

Outboard rear AND front shocks like I have. Move upper links up at frame same height as I have, I had them higher and shorter uppers, helped but didn't like pinion movement.

Rockhugger showed me to leave links stock length, undo one link at frame at a time and pivot it up while holding rear axle still. When upper and lower links are parallel, drill a hole and bolt it up. Move opposite sides link to same position! Rear pinion now moves in good manner and no more worries of it going over center on up travel.

Do you think that leaving the battery tray on the axel is better?

 

[Natedog]

Yes.

Edit, sorry I should have elaborated more.

Ascender floating battery tray puts most of the battery weight directly on the front axle via the link, right where it does the most good for traction and climbing. Shouldn't hinder suspension at all, but I did shave front of of my battery boxes little since they both slightly rubbed the front cross member.

 

[TLR_junkie]

Yes both my Ascenders still have battery tray attached to axle.

Outboard rear AND front shocks like I have. Move upper links up at frame same height as I have, I had them higher and shorter uppers, helped but didn't like pinion movement.

Rockhugger showed me to leave links stock length, undo one link at frame at a time and pivot it up while holding rear axle still. When upper and lower links are parallel, drill a hole and bolt it up. Move opposite sides link to same position! Rear pinion now moves in good manner and no more worries of it going over center on up travel.

nate i cannot seem to find pictures of what you did with your shocks and rasing the upper links.

can you please post pictures again or post a link to the appropriate pages?

thanks!

 

[Natedog]

Oops, I'll snap a pic tomorrow. :mrgreen:

 

[rag6]

Have you broken any of the HD driveshafts?