Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER

[TLR_junkie]

I thought about the shock matching tool and being a racer you'd think that I would have one but that's just more thechnical than I ever feel like going with my setups. That attitude is probably why my best trophies are 3rd through 5th haha!

 

[Natedog]

"Thumbsup"

Need a pair of MiniMaglite reflectors for my K10 headlight project if anyone has a pair.

Bought one each of these Value Hobby G-Force 3S lipos hoping they'd fit the battery tray since they claim 101mm length on all three. Don't fit, actual length is 105mm-106mm not as listed. Height and width dimensions given are spot on. None of the three fits any better than the Turnigy that I already have several of, however they seem like very nicely built packs. Need to try Helios RC 3000mah 3s.

 

[HOLLYWOOD33]

What's the max length battery that will fit in the Ascender?

I have 4 Lectron 3S 5200's and 2 Venom 3S 5000's.

I want to possibly get an Ascender but I don't really want to buy more batteries.

Thanks

 

[Natedog]

Technically 101mm, just re-measured to be sure.

Lipos are inexpensive these days, don't let that be your decision breaker.

 

[Itali83]

These fit with the slightest little shove in the battery tray. Been running one for a while. I stand it up so to speak to keep the wires from hitting the motor but not an issue really. Plus I still run the es3 connector so that's a plus for me.
Ben

RotorLogic LiPo Battery 3S 11.1V 2200mAh 30C EC3 plug fits E-flite RC #32203013 | eBay

 

[Natedog]

Thanks Ben, that states 105mm length, what's the actual length? 8) I'm running XT-60 connectors on everything for a couple years now, EC3 and EC5 would be my close second in connectors, Deans (Star) connectors are pita to solder/unplug.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

I went to install my Vaterra aluminum shocks today. I wasn't happy that they didn't include any top balls. I would have rather had those included instead of the crappy standoffs that aren't even anodized. Inexcusable for the price of the shocks. Even GMade includes those with their cheap Transition shocks.

Do the aluminum shocks come with any limiters inside?

 

[Itali83]

Thanks Ben, that states 105mm length, what's the actual length? 8) I'm running XT-60 connectors on everything for a couple years now, EC3 and EC5 would be my close second in connectors, Deans (Star) connectors are pita to solder/unplug.

It's no more than 105. I have it in my hand with ruler now. Being a soft pack it's a bit rounded on the ends. They for sure fit with a little push in. The wires are close to motor but haven't ever been a problem or show signs of chaffing or anything like that.
Ben

 

[Itali83]

I went to install my Vaterra aluminum shocks today. I wasn't happy that they didn't include any top balls. I would have rather had those included instead of the crappy standoffs that aren't even anodized. Inexcusable for the price of the shocks. Even GMade includes those with their cheap Transition shocks.

Do the aluminum shocks come with any limiters inside?

Totally over rated and over priced for something that I don't think is any better than stock plastic shocks. That's just my limited experience opinion. I have both and don't notice any difference at all.
Ben

 

[Natedog]

Ben, thanks for the battery measurement.

I went to install my Vaterra aluminum shocks today. I wasn't happy that they didn't include any top balls. I would have rather had those included instead of the crappy standoffs that aren't even anodized. Inexcusable for the price of the shocks. Even GMade includes those with their cheap Transition shocks.

Do the aluminum shocks come with any limiters inside?

As noted a few pages back that is how the shocks come, easy to pop out the stock shocks upper balls or buy a pack of spares, they make great spacers for stuff like out-boarding your shocks too. The stand offs are very nicely machined, just not anodized or crappy lol. A small sheet of instructions would be nice, but I tried a bunch of different mounting options, and figured it out and I'm kind of a picky guy. I've already mentioned this to Team Vaterra guys and gals. "thumbsup"

No limiters are pre-installed in any Vaterra Ascender shocks.

Shocks on RPP Hobby site:
https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/vtr334017.htm

Harley's very helpful Ascender aluminum shock upgrade installation video (Vaterra Option Parts - Episode 5)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLZFNZVLGac&feature=youtu.be&t=2m45s

All 9 of his Ascender videos starting with number 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1I0KDkjo0IA&list=PLYJUKgayMNfVq8frphe4FJfjpjLCAxvtJ

 

[Natedog]

Totally over rated and over priced for something that I don't think is any better than stock plastic shocks. That's just my limited experience opinion. I have both and don't notice any difference at all.
Ben

I have not had any of the problems with the plastic or optional aluminum shocks that you or some others have had, I'm not here to candy coat anything, or discount your experience, I provide input to Vaterra to improve products and help end users get better results.

I don't find the optional aluminum shocks over-rated at all (or over priced, look around at other all aluminum RC shocks), mine (and several other NorCal buddy's) have been great, smoother than plastic and didn't need drilled out pistons. I'm running AE 30wt in mine, shocks squeeze tested in hand and crawling is noticeably smoother to me, YMMV "thumbsup"

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Totally over rated and over priced for something that I don't think is any better than stock plastic shocks. That's just my limited experience opinion. I have both and don't notice any difference at all.
Ben

Aluminum shocks aren't always an improvement. It's a myth, at least in my opinion, that aluminum shocks are better than plastic shocks. Plastic shocks are just that good these days. It's different when you race and get into coated aluminum shock bodies and shafts, but for crawlers you'd be hard pressed to find aluminum shocks that are a significant upgrade over the stock plastic shocks on most crawlers. The stock Vaterra shocks have the wrong pistons, but other than that they're great shocks IMO.

 

[Itali83]

I have not had any of the problems with the plastic or optional aluminum shocks that you or some others have had, I'm not here to candy coat anything, or discount your experience, I provide input to Vaterra to improve products and help end users get better results.

I don't find the optional aluminum shocks over-rated at all (or over priced, look around at other all aluminum RC shocks), mine (and several other NorCal buddy's) have been great, smoother than plastic and didn't need drilled out pistons. I'm running AE 30wt in mine, shocks squeeze tested in hand and crawling is noticeably smoother to me, YMMV "thumbsup"

I guess I should be more clear, I don't think they're over priced for an aluminum shock because cause there are others way more expensive and not much better quality probably. The more I think about it, I don't care for them because they aren't leaps and bounds better than the stock plastic shocks. I think it's more that the plastic shocks are THAT good, not the aluminum shocks are THAT bad. I think that sounds better. So to me, it's the issue of the extra cost not giving me the same amount of performance benefit. The only issue I've had eight either style shock has been some binding of the sliding ring between preload and main springs. It was because of dirt buildup, not manufacturing so I had no problem grinding down the unused threads and fixing the problem once and for all.

Ben

 

[CODYBOY]

Aluminum shocks aren't always an improvement. It's a myth, at least in my opinion, that aluminum shocks are better than plastic shocks. Plastic shocks are just that good these days. It's different when you race and get into coated aluminum shock bodies and shafts, but for crawlers you'd be hard pressed to find aluminum shocks that are a significant upgrade over the stock plastic shocks on most crawlers. The stock Vaterra shocks have the wrong pistons, but other than that they're great shocks IMO.

Traxxas Big Bore 3.5 are perfect for the ascender, and you don't need limiters."thumbsup" I know you don't talk to me, but thought I would share for others.
Ernie

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Traxxas Big Bore 3.5 are perfect for the ascender, and you don't need limiters."thumbsup" I know you don't talk to me, but thought I would share for others.
Ernie

Traxxas Big Bores are great on just about anything they'll fit on.

I didn't know I didn't talk to you...

 

[TLR_junkie]

For the budgeted guys, ecx makes a really nice looking aluminum shock, pre built with springs and a pair is only 22 dollars. They are only a couple mm shorter than the stock ascender shocks but some of y'all are limiting them anyway.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

As noted a few pages back that is how the shocks come, easy to pop out the stock shocks upper balls or buy a pack of spares, they make great spacers for stuff like out-boarding your shocks too. The stand offs are very nicely machined, just not anodized or crappy lol. A small sheet of instructions would be nice, but I tried a bunch of different mounting options, and figured it out and I'm kind of a picky guy. I've already mentioned this to Team Vaterra guys and gals. "thumbsup"

No limiters are pre-installed in any Vaterra Ascender shocks.

The stock balls are steel I believe. I don't like the idea of using steel balls in aluminum shocks. Friction will wear the aluminum.

Thanks. I guess I might have to add limiters at some point.

I just noticed you have your servo sideways instead of front to back. I've been thinking about doing that. Why did you do it? I just want to see if your reasons are the same as mine. And what did you use to mount it that way?

Do you have pictures showing your links mounted to the Double-DZS-RC risers? Did you space the links far off of the risers?

 

[Natedog]

Yes steel balls in aluminum, we'll see.

Servo sideways because it's easier to get drag link up higher in better alignment with panhard and more tie-rod clearance to servo horn on compression travel without offset horn. Used wb2 servo mounts, put servo on top of mounts and FullForce RC servo clamps to hold it in place better.

Double DZSRC link mounts position pictures back a page or two. No spacers between bracket and links.

Why's your servo mounted sideways?

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Yes steel balls in aluminum, we'll see.

Servo sideways because it's easier to get drag link up higher in better alignment with panhard and more tie-rod clearance to servo horn on compression travel without offset horn. Used wb2 servo mounts, put servo on top of mounts and FullForce RC servo clamps to hold it in place better.

Double DZSRC link mounts position pictures back a page or two. No spacers between bracket and links.

Why's your servo mounted sideways?

Thanks for the info. I didn't realize the shorter wheelbase configurations mounted it sideways. But you know that because you're Dr. Asecender. :mrgreen:

My servo is still mounted front to back, but I thought about trying to mount it sideways just to get as much weight of the servo as possible up at the very front.

I saw the photos, but I couldn't tell if you used spacers. I'll have to mount mine next. I think I want to run it with the new shocks before installing the risers though. That way I can see if I can notice a change with the shocks and then with the risers.

 

[Natedog]

You're welcome and thanks.

Hmmm, iirc this is not going to move the weight forward comparted to the fore/aft mounting setup of WB3 and WB4, but can't hurt to try it.

OK, guess I only showed the outside so spacers would not be visible. One change at a time is good way to test. "thumbsup"

Yesterday I replaced old AC electrical outlets in the garage, you know the ones that the cord kinda flops downward and tries to fall out? Worn outlets can arc, cause heat build up and start fires. I also upgraded to heavy duty versions and screwing the wires to the outlet instead of using the push in connection (HD version does not even have the push connectors). Then I re-glued the sandpaper to my benchtop disk sander, 3M heavy duty trim adhesive, hot summers kill the self-adhesive paper, should be fun to remove next time it wears out. :mrgreen:"thumbsup"

Worked on front axle aluminum link mount and bracing, just gotta drill a hole and bolt it together. "thumbsup"