Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER

[Ascender'nMN84]

I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on those upper link mounts. They keep ending up in my baskets but are the first thing removed when I've realized my eyes were bigger than my wallet.

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[Natedog]

They're pretty nicely made, few minor machine marks in them, but not bad and the marks are on the backside that butts up against the axle housing so you'll never really notice them. You can see the slight marks (like lines) in the second picture on the left side of the bracket. Anodized in black, gunmetal or clear/silver, seems like a good stock replacement if you wanted to install them. Price was right and they look like they'll hold up, I'd buy them again and might buy a front after my rear upper link project.

Userid Pete959 has them on at least one of his Ascenders. They are visible on is truck in post #65 here:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vaterra-ascender/562633-beater-4.html

and his other thread post #361:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vaterra-ascender/553444-newbie-19.html

Edit: They are also in Fyrstormer's Ascender:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vaterra-ascender/577062-build-complete-vaterra-ascender.html

 

[2mtech]

And the property value of your Ascender goes up a little more ;-)

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Are you still running the stock, plastic shocks? What are your reason(s) for not getting the Vaterra aluminum shocks?

 

[Ascender'nMN84]

Are you still running the stock, plastic shocks? What are your reason(s) for not getting the Vaterra aluminum shocks?

I JUST bought the aluminum Vaterra shocks for my new build. Not at all impressed. The divider between the 2 springs gets hung up on the threads of the shock. Binding like crazy. No ball ends on the top creates a lot of slop and clicking. I will be replacing these things ASAP. Just my $0.02

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[rag6]

^^^^^ I had the same issues when I recently got the alum vaterra shocks. You can eliminate the rings binding by slightly sanding the inside of the rings. Mine slide like butter now. And you can use fuel tube inside the top shock mounts with a washer to snug up the top shock mount. They are a nice shock once ya get it sorted out, but for the 80 bucks I dropped at lhs for them, I expected a little better...

 

[Natedog]

I'm currently running plastic shocks, but have run the aluminum shocks and need to change the internal limiter setup on them and put them on my K10.

I have had none of the floating spring spacers rubbing the threaded shock bodies on any of my Ascenders, plastic or aluminum shocks. Va'Blazer test unit 1 is still dirty from Moonrocks with dirt and gunk all over the shocsk and in the adjuster threads (toothbrush will make quick cleanup) and driving it around, theres no rubbing or catching anywhere. All the Ascender guys whom I crawl with have not had shock problems either, hard to say without the truck in front of me for hands on check out. Pics or video would help if you have it so we can try to help wiht the rub. If the spring spacers are hanging up, first thing I would check is inside and clean/smooth them up a little with some sandpaper rolled into a tube shape. "thumbsup"

On the upper mounts I've used nitro fuel line cut to length, but at the moment have settled on the plastic Axial shock ball mounts that came with one of my other kits and a 3mm washer under the screw head. These are cheap, plastic is softer than aluminum so quiet, free moving and won't wear against the aluminum shock like a steel ball end could. I also use these with my Pro-Line Scaler 90mm shocks because the upper mount is same as the Vaterra aluminum shocks. Don't over-tighten the upper screw mount, just snug it up with a little blue Loctite. "thumbsup"

 

[Natedog]

K10 WB4 LOL

But there's a matter of 24mm at rear body mounts, was going to cut off end of frame rails and move crossmember forward but doesn't work well. Searched for couple hours couldn't find the picture on RCC of the K10 wb4 with 3d printed extra rollbar hoop with spacers, anybody remember where that's at???

May have to buy another K10 cage set atm to try adding a second rollbar tube with spacers, since I don't have a 3D printer.

Test fit on the Va'Blazer test mule #1.




Test fitting on my mock up chassis currently set at WB4, with empty tranny case bolted in for clearance checking. Gotta think on this a bit. :ror:




The 'little' issue of 24mm.

 

[OldNTired]

Took me a little bit this morning but I think I found what you wanted. Didn't find pics but Yeti_stealth had linked to this vid on YT. About1:30 in."thumbsup"
https://youtu.be/OfdzTzktf_Y

 

[Natedog]

Thanks that might be it, but iirc there was a second full rollbar hoop in there too. Maybe he's done more than one version, I see several printed parts on those two trucks. 8). One I saw was a single photo on RCC. I need a 3D printer.

Edit, I'm internally limiting a set of Vaterra aluminum shocks by 6mm to install on K10 outboard front and back, Rockhugger proved this works. Now that link locations are getting better and swaybar is not needed, I want little more travel. This will be just under 4" shock length and test if spring spacers rubs or sticks on threaded adjuster area. This hasn't been a problem for me, but let's try it.

 

[youngDUMP]

Just another .02. I'm still running stock Vaterra shocks up front on my Ascender. On both sides the spring dividers snagged on the shock body threads stock. I've since installed spacers up top and that fixed almost all snagging except for one small spot on the driver side. I hadn't thought of whoring out the middle until I read this. I'll try it. Don't see why it won't fix it. As of now I have no intentions of swapping shocks unless I come across a set of kings cheap.

I have gmade diaphragm shocks out back with the GCM relocation setup and they seem to work well. Very smooth. Wouldn't be opposed to buying another set for up front. Won't be bothering with the aluminum Vaterra shocks after yall's issues


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[Natedog]

HH 550 21T motor and 3S planning.




Vaterra Aluminum shocks cleaned up, torn down, stock pistons seem to be about 0.037" holes. My smallest bit was #60 and didn't fit, so sized with a small tapered pick and then measured diameter of pick with calipers at point of maximum insertion in piston hole. Drilled both holes with #55 bit (0.052", 1.3208mm) same as all my Ascender plastic shocks, filled with Axial 30wt oil (it's what I've been using lately and it's handy in the squeeze bottle on the bench. Used two wraps of teflon plumbers tape cut to 1/4 width on O-ring retainer as kinda threadlock that wont' gum things up. Shock internals are much like the plastic shocks, two o-rings at the bottom retained by screw on cap, exception is the black plastic hat piece that prevents metal to metal contact between shock shaft and bottom o-ring retaining cap. I added to Losi shock limiters 3mm each for total of 6mm internal limit, spacers on shaft ready to assemble. Caster brand shock pliers (Multi Function Crab Plier) are the stuff, great price and in stock at LHS.




Teflon tape cut into 1/4 width strips for 'threadlock' on o-ring cap.




Upper and lower springs are 'silver' as noted by paint on end of springs, same as RTR and kits. Note the chamfered inside edges of the spring spacers, I've not had any hang up problems with the springs on any of my aluminum or plastic shocks.




Shocks assembled, just under 4" eye to eye (about 3 15/16"), Axial Wraith upper shock mount rubbers installed as upper shock bushings.

Edit: I've since gone back to Ascender steel balls at upper shock mount, allows shocks to pivot around. The rubber bushings limited this and slightly loosened couple shock caps.

 

[fr8cture]

Does that strc upper link mount fit revo rod ends?

 

[Natedog]

Yes it does, need a washer in there to take up play because they are slightly thinner.

 

[fr8cture]

I'm wondering why with the stock trusses I had to trim the upper link mounts? Did they change the link mounts since initial release?

 

[Natedog]

There are different steel ball ends, only difference is how wide the link pocket they fit without washer or trimming the pocket.

Vaterra is 0.274" (single flanged used in most links), 0.237" (non-flanged used on upper links at axles). Maybe to keep truss area smaller and more scale? I dunno.

Edit: test fit proper Vaterra ends in STRC upper link mount and fit fine. Measured and STRC machined the pockets to 0.240" each leaves about 0.003" extra. Tighter would be nicer but this works.

Traxxas Revo ends 0.246", 0.275", 0.325".

Axial is 0.275" single flanged.

Yes I just re-measured them all with calipers.

 

[fr8cture]

Ahh okay so vaterra doesn't have flange on the upper links explains why I had to significantly trim for .275.

 

[Natedog]

Correct and yes.
Vaterra Part number of flanged ball ends VTR246005. Non-flanged is VTR246008.

 

[Natedog]

Losi Mini-T springs (front and rear) fit the Vaterra aluminum shocks similar to how they fit BigBores, test fitted only but seemed secure. Might need a small collar to keep them from moving up during actual trail use. Feels like Vaterra medium springs are between Mini-T rear (longer) springs soft and medium.




Since the upgrade shocks don't provide any instructions, I went through a million different methods of upper shock mounting and was settled on Wraith rubber bushings, well not a million but I ran down the usual list of nitro fuel line, shock o-rings, ball ends, etcetera. I like the mount screws to bottom against something solid when possible, so turned down a Vaterra steel ball end in the drillpress lathe with low speed and the edge of a large flat file. Turned it down to about 0.155" od, but it was too tight a fit inside the Wraith rubber bushings and the steel was kind thin walled after turning it down. Settled on using unmodified steel Vaterra linkage balls with a 3mm flat washer on the outside to retain the shock. This is very smooth pivoting, virtually slop free (at the moment anyways) there isn't really room for an o-ring or two with this setup unless you want to bind the upper mount. We'll see how it goes, STRC sells aluminum shock caps, but don't know how well they fit the Vaterra aluminum shocks as they seem to be meant as replacement for the plastic shock caps. I'm guessing they'll fit fine, since STRC also sells aluminum shock bodies and lower o-ring retainers. 8)




Front shocks mounted outboard! The tires lightly contact the springs at full lock, about the same time the tires contact the lower links. I'm going with it, we'll see how it is long-term! I did NOT use the aluminum shock mount spacers included with the shocks.

Notes: I flipped the panhard mount screw at the axle so that the smooth and lower profile head is on the shock side, used a couple millimeter shorter screw and an Axial thin locknut (for the Wraith, part number AXA1052) so that at full steering lock it does not touch the knuckle steering arm.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/axial-...locking-hex-nut-set-black-10-axia1052/p183001

35mm buttonhead screws cut down to 33mm attach shocks and lower links to the axle housing. Used Vaterra steel pivot balls to space the lower link and mounts.




Ya, that's a lot of steering. 8)

 

[Itali83]

Great to see you still at it Nate tweaking an already awesome truck. I'm getting confused on which truck you're working on though. Are you running the original K5 still and doing this work to the newly stretched out K10? Are you still comping the K5 or focusing on the K10 fo comps and the K5 is the friend and fun truck?

The aluminum shocks in my own limited experience opinion just aren't worth the money. Seem like a bling upgrade more than anything else. I've never had a problem with the plastic sets I've got and they don't leak. The one aluminum set I've got has one that leaks and I did everything the same as with my plastic shocks. The top mount really agrivates me. Your solution is perfect but for the money they cost, that's ridiculous that you've got fabricate your own mount out of other brand pieces. Oh well, rant over. Keep up the good wok!
Ben