Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER

[Junkk5]

Crawled Sunday at Moonrocks too, group of guys from Mountain Roo came by in their Subarus four-wheeling and hill climbing, some really nicely setup cars! They stopped and chatted a bit, said they were Subaru Brand Ambassadors (Nick driving and forget his buddy's name sorry), before they left gave us each a sweet Subaru coffee mug with matching orange coaster! Thanks guys! Guy in the brand new blue CrossTrek ripped a big piece of plastic aerodynamic under panel off on the steep down and back up through the wash below us, stopped, threw it in the hatchback and kept on wheeling.

Mountain Roo

Thank you for the pictures! For what ever reason my girlfriend gets upset when I talk about how awesome a set of 27" swampers would look on her forester... Now I have proof I am not the only dummy (in her words) that would wheel a subaru!

 

[Natedog]

Nice to see them beefing up the CVDs, though my OG sets have held up great.

X2, but this set was from my second RTR Blazer, first Blazer set still going strong.

nice pic of the two cvds

"thumbsup"

Thank you for the pictures! For what ever reason my girlfriend gets upset when I talk about how awesome a set of 27" swampers would look on her forester... Now I have proof I am not the only dummy (in her words) that would wheel a subaru!

You're welcome! LOL sounds nice to me, I wheel my Forester everytime I'm out somewhere like this! The blue CrossTrek was brand new and the guy tore off a large undercarriage aerodynamic plastic when he bounced through the ruts at the bottom of the was and blasted up the other side, stopped at top, threw the plastic in the hatch and took off up the trail. "thumbsup"

Edit: Pics of the Event T-shirts!

 

[MaX-D]

The Wraith has better ground clearance and approach angle, so it can handle larger obstacles. Don't get rid of it, find harder stuff to drive it on.

- - -

The Ascender is going to stay as a roller for a while. I need to finish my SCX10 II first, and test the MST CMX I have coming in the mail, and oh yeah I also have to buy Christmas presents for people. However, I did regrease the diffs with my preferred grease and refill the shocks with 15wt oil. I need to get some 10wt oil, because even 15wt feels thick in the Ascender's shocks. I also replaced the stock shorty battery tray with a full-size battery tray from BP Custom Chassis.

I've decided to turn my Wraith into a monster truck with the STRC Izilla chassis. I'm building a crawling course in my backyard for the ECX Barrage I have on order. Being a 1/12 sized truck, the obstacles will be more of a challenge. The Wraith goes over them no problem. I don't have a large amount of room for the course.

 

[CODYBOY]

X2, but this set was from my second RTR Blazer, first Blazer set still going strong.



"thumbsup"



You're welcome! LOL sounds nice to me, I wheel my Forester everytime I'm out somewhere like this! The blue CrossTrek was brand new and the guy tore off a large undercarriage aerodynamic plastic when he bounced through the ruts at the bottom of the was and blasted up the other side, stopped at top, threw the plastic in the hatch and took off up the trail. "thumbsup"

Edit: Pics of the Event T-shirts!

That looks just like mine!!!!"thumbsup"

 

[kham0315]

excellent thread nate. im running the k10 and I am working on mounting sway bar. I like how you went thru frame under esc but i don't have clearance after relocating rear upper links. actually had to shim esc up to prevent contact. did you have this problem? I don't see sway bar in your latest pics.

 

[Natedog]

That looks just like mine!!!!"thumbsup"

But of course! ;-)"thumbsup"

im running the k10 and I am working on mounting sway bar. I like how you went thru frame under esc but i don't have clearance after relocating rear upper links. actually had to shim esc up to prevent contact. did you have this problem? I don't see sway bar in your latest pics.

Thanks, I initially setup the Blazer with swaybar behind the axle (utilizing optional body mounts), the K10 was setup swaybar in front of axle (drilled holes through frame) and that nearly touched the bottom of the RTR ESC in it's stock location. After running it with swaybar for awhile, I did the RULR setup using TODBLDZ (RCC userid) machined aluminum RULRs. To raise the rear upper links, I cut the ESC mounts off the chassis and servo taped the ESC to the front of the RX box. Ascender does not need a rear swaybar if you raise the rear upper links and outboard the shocks. "thumbsup"

 

[Natedog]

I've got the itch to go WB4 with the K0 body and cage bed setup. Currently the K10 sits at a modified setting to achieve WB3, see below. Been measuring and thinking.

WB1 = 278mm (10.95 inches)
WB2 = 290mm (11.4 inches)
WB2 + 12mm rear links = 302mm (11.9 inches)
WB3 = 302mm (11.9 inches)
WB4 = 314mm (12.36 inches)

Thinking about drilling new holes in frame and moving shock towers back, maybe swapping side to side, might also reverse rear frame X member that rx box mounts too. Might need to grind the unused body mounts off of them. Would need to remount the fuel cell rx box. Only about 10mm between rear of rx box and rear cage/body mounts and need some space here for cage to flex on hard rollover impacts. Checking it out with my spare frame mock up, might be easier just to make some aluminum upper shock mount plates and move the top of the shocks back 12mm that way.

Wonder how much longer the Pro-Line 1966 Ford cab is, might make up the difference in body length to use this on WB4. Saw a guy post here and had what looked like black 3D printed extra rollcage hoop with printed in spacers to go between cab and cage/bed. Looking and can't find the posting dangit, looked really good and then just make my own plates for sides and bed top with extra length to match.

 

[Natedog]

I originally typed this up for the VP Future Options (new products) thread,
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vaterra-ascender/578919-future-options-vanquish.html
but copy/pasted it here in my thread to give it more exposure.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Been thinking about this, there are several reasons that non-Vaterra aftermarket parts sales for Ascender parts have not been as good as some vendors may have hoped for.

When the Ascender first released a bunch of peeps had diff gears break and plastic driveshafts twist off like licorice, everybody got scared and sold off their Ascenders for cheap, abandoning some really nice build threads here on RCC and elsewhere. Vaterra stepped up and very quickly released redesigned pinion gears with better metallurgy and thicker driveshafts made of stronger fiber reinforced plastic, fixing the two main problems. Vaterra also release a whole slew of very high quality machined aluminum parts for the Ascender at the same time the very well thought out and engineered truck was released, thus decreasing the need and consumer demand for aftermarket parts.

Stronger CVDs that can handle abuse with slipper locked down, 3S/4S lipos and brushelss motors and a TT (torque twist) solution were pretty much all that remained. Vaterra has beefed up their CVDs, now Vanquish has released VVDs, problem solved! I'm waiting for VP VVDs to be in stock to purchase for my trucks. TT has been almost eliminated with rear swaybars and RULR type rear link setups in conjunction with outboarded rear shocks.

We have been mostly ignored for over two years by the aftermarket companies. The few companies that have stepped up have been hit and miss, we asked for something and they gave us what they thought we wanted, not what we've been loudly asking for. When we provided input telling them what to change on their product(s), many ignored us again and then said that sales could be better. Therefore most Ascender peeps have learned to make do and build the parts ourselves. I really enjoy my Ascenders and keep crawling with them and letting anybody test drive them, because I believe in them. I can't wait to see what we can do with VP VVDs, axles, pinion input shafts, etcetera! Thanks and looking forward to some great new products! "thumbsup"

 

[JatoTheRipper]

I originally typed this up for the VP Future Options (new products) thread,
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vaterra-ascender/578919-future-options-vanquish.html
but copy/pasted it here in my thread to give it more exposure.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Been thinking about this, there are several reasons that non-Vaterra aftermarket parts sales for Ascender parts have not been as good as some vendors may have hoped for.

When the Ascender first released a bunch of peeps had diff gears break and plastic driveshafts twist off like licorice, everybody got scared and sold off their Ascenders for cheap, abandoning some really nice build threads here on RCC and elsewhere. Vaterra stepped up and very quickly released redesigned pinion gears with better metallurgy and thicker driveshafts made of stronger fiber reinforced plastic, fixing the two main problems. Vaterra also release a whole slew of very high quality machined aluminum parts for the Ascender at the same time the very well thought out and engineered truck was released, thus decreasing the need and consumer demand for aftermarket parts.

Stronger CVDs that can handle abuse with slipper locked down, 3S/4S lipos and brushelss motors and a TT (torque twist) solution were pretty much all that remained. Vaterra has beefed up their CVDs, now Vanquish has released VVDs, problem solved! I'm waiting for VP VVDs to be in stock to purchase for my trucks. TT has been almost eliminated with rear swaybars and RULR type rear link setups in conjunction with outboarded rear shocks.

We have been mostly ignored for over two years by the aftermarket companies. The few companies that have stepped up have been hit and miss, we asked for something and they gave us what they thought we wanted, not what we've been loudly asking for. When we provided input telling them what to change on their product(s), many ignored us again and then said that sales could be better. Therefore most Ascender peeps have learned to make do and build the parts ourselves. I really enjoy my Ascenders and keep crawling with them and letting anybody test drive them, because I believe in them. I can't wait to see what we can do with VP VVDs, axles, pinion input shafts, etcetera! Thanks and looking forward to some great new products! "thumbsup"

The Ascender had teething problems like most vehicles. If those things were enough to scare people way I'm not sure they would have purchased aftermarket accessories anyway. Besides those initial issues, I personally think the Ascender only has one shortcoming and that is the torque twist. Other than that, this truck has a great design and it's made from strong, high quality materials. Unlike the other brands, this truck doesn't need tons of upgrades out of the box. I think there is something to be said for that. I mean if the Ascender had rubber shock hoops like the SCX10 I think at least a few companies would be making aluminum replacements.

 

[OldNTired]

Saw a guy post here and had what looked like black 3D printed extra rollcage hoop with printed in spacers to go between cab and cage/bed. Looking and can't find the posting dangit, looked really good and then just make my own plates for sides and bed top with extra length to match.

Have you considered using the metal spacers that Vaterra sells for the links as spacers for the cage/body?

 

[Ascender'nMN84]

Have you considered using the metal spacers that Vaterra sells for the links as spacers for the cage/body?

But you'd be missing the hoop that helps visually fill the gap between the cage and cab. Yes you could use the spacers to separate the two, but what I think he's talking about is basically a 3D printed full cage extension that physically and visually fills the space between them.

When I get home I need to do some investigating. I had an idea pop in my brain as I was typing but it could be one of my crazy ideas so before I let the cat out of the bag, I'll look first.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Natedog]

Have you considered using the metal spacers that Vaterra sells for the links as spacers for the cage/body?

Yes, I have and they work, but the visual and strength of unsupported span with only a long screw supporting it is not ideal. I have a bunch of Axial 3mm ID spacers in various lengths, which Vaterra spacers?

But you'd be missing the hoop that helps visually fill the gap between the cage and cab. Yes you could use the spacers to separate the two, but what I think he's talking about is basically a 3D printed full cage extension that physically and visually fills the space between them.

When I get home I need to do some investigating. I had an idea pop in my brain as I was typing but it could be one of my crazy ideas so before I let the cat out of the bag, I'll look first.

Precisely!

Well, get on it lol. Hope it's good one, thought about buying another bed cage just to get a second hoop, but kinda wasteful, parts might interlock like I want...gotta look at that, would be worth the price to me! "thumbsup"

 

[Ascender'nMN84]

Yes, I have and they work, but the visual and strength of unsupported span with only a long screw supporting it is not ideal. I have a bunch of Axial 3mm ID spacers in various lengths, which Vaterra spacers?



Precisely!

Well, get on it lol. Hope it's good one, thought about buying another bed cage just to get a second hoop, but kinda wasteful, parts might interlock like I want...gotta look at that, would be worth the price to me! "thumbsup"

You hit the nail on the head. I just don't know how the holes line up and what I'd use as spacers. Possibly just link spacers like suggested earlier. I just wanted to get home and lay eyes on it.

Plan B is hack up a couple RC4WD Blazer bodies and make a hard body extended cab/crew cab truggy [emoji15]
A fella can dream....

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Ascender'nMN84]

Answer to our question is yes. With proper spacers and longer hardware this can be done with a second cage. I really like how it would look too. I, on the other hand just took a drastic turn in my planning.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Natedog]

Cool, thanks we're thinking on the same page.

Plan B would be nice too, little more money and lot more work but would look awesome.

Thanks for confirmation that will work, probably 1/8" or little longer spacers?

Hmmm, post your drastic turn I think it might be pretty sweet too. 8)

Anybody have the Proline 66 Ford cab they can place next to K10 cab with ruler and snap a pic with length differences, mounting holes etc?

 

[Ascender'nMN84]

Depending on how much space you want to fill, you could use the Vaterra link spacers to fill the space nicely. Just use the longer hardware to bolt the secondary hoop to the 6? holes that aren't used to attach the cab to the cage.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Scouts_out]

Awesome read! Only took a couple days but wrote down TONS of notes. Thank you! One question, what size drill bit is used to drill out the shock plunger? I seen #5 or #55, but what is that in standard drill bit sizes?

Second, would it be ok to drill out the front and run 20wt both in the front and back shocks or is 20 to thin with the holes? Thanks again for all the great info!!!!

 

[Natedog]

Thanks Ascender'nMN84!

Scoutsout thanks and drill both shock piston holes with #55 drill bit. I use 30wt oil, but you can try 20. Maybe 20wt front and 30 rear but I like 30 all around.

#55 = 0.0520". 3/64" is slightly smaller so maybe good with 20wt. 1/16" slightly bigger so good for 30wt or little thicker.

http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-drillsize.htm

 

[Natedog]

Thanks to userids: Hillbillrc and Durok! 8)

Measured my K10 and Honchos, height can be trimmed some and my Honcho has about 1/4" iirc trimmed off the bottom edge. K10 has not been trimmed.

K10..........Cab..............Bed
Length......9.25".............8"
Width.......8".................8"
Height......4.75"............4.375"

Honcho.....Cab..............Bed
Length.....11.3"..............6.75"
Width........7.5"..............7"
Height.......5.125"...........4.3125"

According to Proline:
1966 Ford F-100 Cab
Length.....11.125" (283mm)
Width........8" (203mm)
Height.......6" (152mm)

85 Toyota HiLux Cab
Length.....11.31" (287mm)
Width........8.0" (203mm)
Height.......5.25" (133mm)

 

[Natedog]

Vanquish VP parts, my VVDs are here and they look great! I can't wait to install and test, but working on some link mount project with the K10 at same time. 8)
Part number VPS08201, in stock at RPP Hobby:
https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/vps08201.htm





Bought STRC rear axle upper link mount to check it out and maybe use as part of a lifted and rearward mounted setup on the axle. Nice looking parts, I bought gunmetal color but they have black and silver too.
Part number: STV232074RGM, in stock at RPP Hobby:
https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/sptstv232074rgm.htm