I just want to say... Just buy a axial ax10 with a sudu chassis![]()
No way,-the Losi are doing great so far :mrgreen:
I like to be a bit different......

But the sudo chassis is very nice,no doubt about it "thumbsup"
I just want to say... Just buy a axial ax10 with a sudu chassis![]()
No way,-the Losi are doing great so far :mrgreen:
I like to be a bit different......
But the sudo chassis is very nice,no doubt about it "thumbsup"
Good show JENS! Keep the Losi alive, IMO it is soooo underrated.
The Sudu is nice, I had one hand me my rear end last comp. But I beat the two others. The only Losi did just great, had the AX10 drivers watching closely.
Awesome build, JENS, just awesome.
But the worm-bearings where the driveshafts are attached, were broken in both axles. But that's "normal" for Losi worms I guess ;-)
Good to hear....sort of. I have had problems with those bearings also, so glad to hear I am not alone. I know that it is a very high stress application, so I was not concerned.
But, I did some reading on bearings. This is what I found that got me thinking. They are talking about Short course trucks, but the theory translates.
Rubber shields offer the best protection against dirt intrusion while metal the worst. Rubber shields will not spin as freely as metal shields. Rubber shields are not desirable for high heat applications. You need to look at where you want to put them then decide what would work best. There are also bearings such as the ones made by Avid that have rubber on one side and metal on the other. Perfect for axles where the rubber side goes to the outside and the metal to the inside where it is protected from flying dirt.
I have always run the rubber shielded bearings, and that may be part of my problem. Where it states 'Rubber shields are not desireable for high heat applications.' Since I do not have to worry about dirt intrusion in the axles (dirty grease is another story), and it is a high heat application. I am seriously considering running metal shielded bearings. Added benefit, metal spins freer (probably imperceptible in the worms, but piece of mind...priceless).
Thoughts?
so what is often to you jens? with rubber sheilds all around the rig, i can make the worm bearings last 2-3 months depending on runtimes and the rest of the rig is 6 months to a year. with metal shields, i burned the worm bearings in 2 runs, but that was during testing times when i was purposely trying to break the truck in some way.
the maintenance on these things is highly person to person imo, we all drive differently and we all do teardowns at different intervals.
with the grease port, that's where i started seeing some issues. once i had a nice system down for the grease port, it started to force old grease into the bearings and fouling them up quicker. when i was still just packing grease in without it, the bearings still took a beating, but it took longer to get them to unacceptable. with the grease port and a small syringe, the religious teardown regimen with a squirt on pack changes, then i started having to order extra 5x11's on bearing runs. the grease port is a useful mod that has a drawback here. the metal shields were one of the first tried in this period, and it was just a horror show after 2 runs, took the shields off and there were loose balls just hanging out.
also with rubber shielded bearings, you can usually weed out some good ones after a thorough cleaning and re-lube. the metal ones tend to fail (at least for me) in a catastrophic ways that make it impossible to even use them for spares. i change bearings when they get gritty feeling or are getting noticeable slop.
Thanks for the commentary, I have trampled this thread enough. My apologizes JENS.
Dent
Tires are looking familiar :mrgreen: Very clean job!
Thanks,-yes these are the new trend now :ror:"thumbsup"
I used Panther Leopard sides,and they came out a few mm smaller than standard Rover's.