Losi Steering mod design

[badBKO]

I have put a couple packs through these with my scaler setup. There was a little issue with the shaft fitment. But that was quickly fixed. So far I have more steering than I have room for! Woohoo! I don't see any issues for now, so I give it a big thumbs up. I did make some pieces that tie the cases together at the shock/link mounts just for added personal security. Couple the steering mod with overdrive front gears and I think I'm set for a while. Thanks again for the awesome product!

-Clint

 

[CODYBOY]

I have put a couple packs through these with my scaler setup. There was a little issue with the shaft fitment. But that was quickly fixed. So far I have more steering than I have room for! Woohoo! I don't see any issues for now, so I give it a big thumbs up. I did make some pieces that tie the cases together at the shock/link mounts just for added personal security. Couple the steering mod with overdrive front gears and I think I'm set for a while. Thanks again for the awesome product!

-Clint

Thanks for the update Clint! I have fixed the shaft issue (I think), more testing with the change will tell.
Could you share with photos of the pieces you made for the link mount area? I tried small zip ties and they work pretty good.
Thanks "thumbsup""thumbsup"
Ernie

 

[baconbits]

Finally had a few moments to tinker in my shop with these tubes.

I decided I didn't want to have to alter a axle shaft so I went with dlux knuckles that were made for a losi shaft with upper and lower arms and bearing for a axial c hub.

Drilling out the housing was a bit of a pain and I did ruin 1 housing even with being very careful.

But I did manage to succeed with 1 of the spares I had.

The issue now is I am maxed as far as the cvd will let me go. So if I truly want more steering I will need to cut and modify a shaft.

Other than that I am happy with how this came out and it's a good weight.

Thumbs up

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[CODYBOY]

Finally had a few moments to tinker in my shop with these tubes.

I decided I didn't want to have to alter a axle shaft so I went with dlux knuckles that were made for a losi shaft with upper and lower arms and bearing for a axial c hub.

Drilling out the housing was a bit of a pain and I did ruin 1 housing even with being very careful.

But I did manage to succeed with 1 of the spares I had.

The issue now is I am maxed as far as the cvd will let me go. So if I truly want more steering I will need to cut and modify a shaft.

Other than that I am happy with how this came out and it's a good weight.

Thumbs up

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Hey Derrick, I was concerned about drilling the casings. I have a pretty good system now for drilling them and still have a slip once in a while. The shafts aren't that hard to do using the SS bushing, I've done 20 of them and they come out pretty clean. If you want help let me know!"thumbsup"
Ernie

I had to do a edit, that work bench is way to clean!!!!

 

[CODYBOY]

So when I started this thread I mentioned that I would show you how to make this mod yourself if you wanted to.
This is a little late for Derrick, but better late than never. This is the steps to drilling the axle casings.

First up, I want the casing bolted and secured together as tight as I can get it. The four 4-40 cap head screws.



Next I drilled a 3/8" hole in one of my c-hubs (3/8" is the bit I use to clearance the ID of the axle casings).



Next I turned down the heads of some 4-40 button screws so they are not blocking the 3/8 bit from the hole in the c-hub.



Screw head blocking hole.





Next small zip ties to keep the casing from shifting or opening up when drilling.



These are the three bits I use for squaring up the casing to the drill press and drilling out the casing.



This is the notched vice I us at the drill press. The notch helps keep the casing square. Same vice I use for drilling my ascender axles.



The set up bit is a reamer that happened to be the right OD for the casing hole. I don't even turn on the press for this step.



Next is a pilot bit and then the 3/8" bit.



The duct tape is a stop so I don't get into the housings for the four 4-40 screws inside the casings.



And that is the steps to drilling the casings, piece of cake right!! "thumbsup""thumbsup"WRONG!:mrgreen::mrgreen:

 

[loneranger6886]

What timing, I am getting closer and closer and I was curious as to how the drilling was accomplished. One more shipment and I should have everything I need to get cracking.

 

[CODYBOY]

What timing, I am getting closer and closer and I was curious as to how the drilling was accomplished. One more shipment and I should have everything I need to get cracking.

That's good, it sounds like something simple to do, but the tolerances between the ID of the casing and OD of the shaft makes the fit very critical. I know your taking some machining classes, if you don't have access to what you need I would be willing to drill a casing for you.
Getting excited to see what you come up with. Like I said before, maybe some day I will be buying parts from you! Glad to see your steeping out of the box a little."thumbsup"
Ernie

 

[CODYBOY]

I thought I would post some photos of a scale axle I put together today. This is what a scale kit could look like for your scale build. 7.5" from hex to hex.











Available

 

[CODYBOY]

Guess I lost all those Losi guys.

I wanted to show what I've done this week. My losi axle with, some Dlux and Crazes Builds goodies wrapped around it. 460 grams (16 oz total) non rotating mass. Photo are kind of busy, I will post better pics later.







Chassis and goodies I got from Robbob!





Thanks for looking"thumbsup"
Ernie

 

[eric113]

That scale axle looks good. Didn't realize even with universals that they are still that narrow.

 

[CODYBOY]

That scale axle looks good. Didn't realize even with universals that they are still that narrow.

Yes, I'm hoping the size will encourage some scaler guys to try these on their scale builds. (Hint Hint) I know you have been thinking about losi axles on a scale build."thumbsup"
Ernie

 

[CODYBOY]

A little update from yesterday. A little bit better pics of the axles, and a few more goodies. I had a chance to dig out my Lunsford titanium screws.





Axle at full lock! And a good look at Crazed Builds front tray!



Here is a good shot of the stance with Robbob's Losi Unstuck Chassis.



Crazed Builds newest wheel design.



Robbob, here it is with your wheels at 10.5" wide on the front and 9.5" on the rear. At full lock with the chassis compressed you can still see space between the tire and shock. So I think I can still outboard the shock at the bottom, add a little wider hub to take it close to 11" and not have tire rub. I will check it out tomorrow.



I think as soon as the weather gets better across the country I should start getting input on the axle. I don't want to start building them until I know they are going to do what they are supposed to do with no problems.

Thanks for looking, and start dusting off those Losi crawlers!!!"thumbsup"
Ernie

 

[CODYBOY]

Hey Robbob, can you share the profile you used in your Tekin or are going to use for your Losi? Did this here instead of PM cause some other people may be wondering. I'm using a RS Pro. Anyone else with profiles please share! Thanks "thumbsup"
Ernie

 

[84yoda]

Ernie, can you measure your links for me and what's your wheelbase?

 

[CODYBOY]

Ernie, can you measure your links for me and what's your wheelbase?

Wheel base is a 12 3/8" and holds pretty good through compression.

These are the bent link measurements from eye to eye.
Bottom rear 125mm
Top rear 114
Bottom front 118
top front 110

Not sure what the length was before I bent them.
Hope that helps you out!"thumbsup"
Ernie

 

[doug.steele04]

Are you running soft springs on all corners? What weight shock oil also if you don't mind me asking.

HilltopRcCrawlers

 

[Robbob]

Wheel base is a 12 3/8" and holds pretty good through compression.

These are the bent link measurements from eye to eye.
Bottom rear 125mm
Top rear 114
Bottom front 118
top front 110

Not sure what the length was before I bent them.
Hope that helps you out!"thumbsup"
Ernie

Those look like a perfect 50/50 split and lets you keep the stock driveshafts. Looks like it gives you great shock angles in both direction also. "thumbsup"

 

[CODYBOY]

Are you running soft springs on all corners? What weight shock oil also if you don't mind me asking.

HilltopRcCrawlers

Hey Doug, For now I'm running black pistons in the front with 50w. The rears have the white piston with 60w. That will all change once I put in some Krazed Builds colored pistons, but a good starting point. Be watching Robbobs build, I think once he starts tuning he will share piston colors and oil weights with us."thumbsup"
Ernie

 

[CODYBOY]

Are you running soft springs on all corners? What weight shock oil also if you don't mind me asking.

HilltopRcCrawlers

Those look like a perfect 50/50 split and lets you keep the stock driveshafts. Looks like it gives you great shock angles in both direction also. "thumbsup"

I'm going to need to do a little adjusting on the upper links on the front, I have a little binding at full compression. And will need to lengthen the rear shaft just a little. Should be an easy fix."thumbsup"
Ernie

 

[Robbob]

I'm going to need to do a little adjusting on the upper links on the front, I have a little binding at full compression. Should be an easy fix."thumbsup"
Ernie

I had the same on mine and remembered my original LCC ..... Put a soft bend about an inch or so from the front axle.

My OG LCC after some CDW upgrade

un-Stuck Losi .... just above the lower link bend you can see the soft bend on my uppers.