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Josh's Bully 2

Put some puller 500 30t motors and dropped the weight down to 4.5#. It has that something is missing feel to it when I pick it up know. Also put in some Gunnar hex pins. These things are a nice snug fit. Hopefully this will cure some of the wheel looseness. Drilled through my upper link mounts and run my uppers more parallel to each other.

This is gonna happen here too.
 
It is very adjustable. I like being able to play around with using different length upper and lower links just to see what it does. You have to have a good sharp drill bit to get through without pushing the material. I want to try a 3mm carbide drill bit sometime to see if it works better than typical ones.

My guess is that you won't do any better than a cobalt drill, I'd put hss second. Not really sure that carbide would do anything special, but those cobalt bits are nice.
 
what exactly is "getting it"? I've made lots of changes to make my crawler do x better but then y suffers. Is there a perfect set up? I don't think so. What exactly is driving your changes?

For example, I've gained a ton in breakover and pull up over a ledge, but i've lost a fair amount of sidehilling. I'm really just normalizing my rig to the guys rigs that I crawl with. Is it better? I think it is, but I've made sacrifices, for sure.

I like to set my rigs up so they perform similarly. I feel that driving a rig that you know what it does in certain situations is the advantage. If you know what will happen before you try it you'll be a step ahead. I aim to make it do everything well but its just not possible. I drive on a lot of wholey rip rap, and hand stacked stuff. My set up is going to be a little different than you guys that are fortunate enough to have natural formations to crawl. Every one who takes a close look at my set up scratches their heads. I built it for this guy who is a little different.:ror:
 
Ordered

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Time to get turning!


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that is far and away the best personal rock pile that I've ever seen. Looks like a great testing ground. I have to drive 4 minutes to my first park of standards, and then 8 minutes to my second. Nothing like a backyard bash though.
 
I got started on the gears and found they are not nearly as hard and tough as the B1 gears. This made me nervous, so they didn't get the full treatment. I did get a 1/4 Ti tube and drill the final gear to mate them together with sleeve retainer. I may also drill through the gear and tube at the bearing surface to pin it. I have had good luck with the Loctite 660 and will try it without the pin first.
 

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Made some more weights for the rear. They are about 3/4 ounce a piece. I like mine with a little more meat on the hind quarters. Sorry about the first pic. It's a little blurry.
 

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With these axles being a little heavier than the XR axles I had been using for so long I have not felt the need for weight out back, rear feels good. Are these weights to compensate for weight you are removing from other areas of the rear axle?
 
I am a little late to the bandwagon but I too love your rock pile. I am wishing you lived in NC! I wonder what it would cost to get some boulders dumped in my backyard...
 
The weights are adding stability to the rear. You are spot on with the compensation. I like to make it lighter then put it back where it makes a difference.
 
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