josh6575
RCC Addict
This little piggy weights in at 4.73#. Pounds not hashtags people.
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
Josh's Bully 2
- Thread starter josh6575
- Start date
ROWDY RACING
I wanna be Dave
Oh yeah your up into the sweet spot.
josh6575
RCC Addict
Finally got to see the sun shine and run it some. After 2 packs added knuckle weight has improved down hill performance the most. helped a little with side hill. Steep climbs are the same. The extra weight has killed the drag brake. On a steep climb when I put it in dig the rear lets loose and rolls backwards. I suspect puller motors will erase this issue.
Master Basher
Rock Crawler
Mine is 4lb 11oz, and I just have integy cans and crawler 213% rear drag and it holds mine fine. Maybe you need stronger springs on your brushes. It makes a big difference.
josh6575
RCC Addict
Went from all skid to none. Just couldn't get the full skid to agree so I went with none. I already don't like getting caught on the rear motor so I have been thinking about something for that. Any way here is the finish product of the chassis center and some side panels.
Attachments
ROWDY RACING
I wanna be Dave
Why is there glue all over your rod ends, extra material for rock wear? :ror:
josh6575
RCC Addict
You caught me. Ended up drilling holes and moving them up after seeing it start to eat through the rod ends. Super glue is super slippery after it dries. And what ever other lame excuse I can come up with for being a cheep skate and not replacing the worn rod ends.
ROWDY RACING
I wanna be Dave
How does it sidehill with that no skid setup?
josh6575
RCC Addict
Chris that is a strange question. It side hills good but could be better. I think a half pound lighter in the motor department, rear knuckle weight, and a little more fine tuning to the upper links should sort it all out.
Spiitz Travsky
Pebble Pounder
Now that is a skinny chassis! I can't believe you managed to still fit some electronics in between the frame.
With all of those adjustment holes you must be able to create just about any stance.
How hard is it to drill through CF cleanly?
josh6575
RCC Addict
It is very adjustable. I like being able to play around with using different length upper and lower links just to see what it does. You have to have a good sharp drill bit to get through without pushing the material. I want to try a 3mm carbide drill bit sometime to see if it works better than typical ones.
josh6575
RCC Addict
Put some puller 500 30t motors and dropped the weight down to 4.5#. It has that something is missing feel to it when I pick it up know. Also put in some Gunnar hex pins. These things are a nice snug fit. Hopefully this will cure some of the wheel looseness. Drilled through my upper link mounts and run my uppers more parallel to each other.
ROWDY RACING
I wanna be Dave
How far did you space out your uppers?
Did you space them the same front and rear?
What position are your link mounts in front and back?
What holes are you upper links in at the axles?
Did you space them the same front and rear?
What position are your link mounts in front and back?
What holes are you upper links in at the axles?
josh6575
RCC Addict
ROWDY RACING
I wanna be Dave
Interesting, my link mounts are dropped all the way down and my links are in the bottom most holes.
josh6575
RCC Addict
Your chassis is made to use axles that the uppers are closer to the lowers. The amount of adjustment with these axles will allow the use of almost any chassis. Its like they made axles just for my experimenting nature.
ROWDY RACING
I wanna be Dave
Cool man, far out. 8)
josh6575
RCC Addict
Got a chance to try out the recent adjustments. The lightened weight improved the ability to get a tire to grab on the littlest things. More paralleled uppers had it settling in a bit more easily. With these insanely grippy tires it hard to tune around. I lengthened my front upper links to try to get the rear to break loose a bit easier. There is so much traction to the rear now that it tries to shove the rear axle up underneath itself when I try to rear dig. I love to use rear dig so this is a problem for me. If this don't get it I am going to try putting some silver compound voodoo's on the rear. I have blue all the way around right now. It seems the stiffer tires bite a whole lot harder to me.
josh6575
RCC Addict
Lengthening the front uppers and lowering the rear at the upper trans. mount got the rear to free up and settle back down. I got my rear dig back
. Run seven courses today and was very happy with the adjustments. Only have one concern. When I started the rear of my rig was 10 3/4" after the end of the day it was 10". I am trying to sort out if I should keep using wider spacers on the hubs or tear down the wheels and use 1" spacers instead of 3/4". This is killing the rear on sidehills.
. Run seven courses today and was very happy with the adjustments. Only have one concern. When I started the rear of my rig was 10 3/4" after the end of the day it was 10". I am trying to sort out if I should keep using wider spacers on the hubs or tear down the wheels and use 1" spacers instead of 3/4". This is killing the rear on sidehills.Master Basher
Rock Crawler
what exactly is "getting it"? I've made lots of changes to make my crawler do x better but then y suffers. Is there a perfect set up? I don't think so. What exactly is driving your changes?
For example, I've gained a ton in breakover and pull up over a ledge, but i've lost a fair amount of sidehilling. I'm really just normalizing my rig to the guys rigs that I crawl with. Is it better? I think it is, but I've made sacrifices, for sure.
