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jebster's creeper

Jeff as you know I rebent the lower stock links on mine and turned them into high clearance links...works mcuh better especially in the rear

i was trying to remember who had done that. thanks for the reminder. i'll go back and review your build thread.
 
anyone using other manufacture hi-clearance links, like axial? i'm probably going to bend my stock links but i'm always afraid of weakening aluminum by doing so. the machined hi-clearance links from axial look sweet but are a little pricey.
 
The links I made cost me around $15.00- $1.15 8/32 allthread,$9.50 Revo rod ends, $3.00 Brass Valve stems, You can also use 3/8 brake line and its works just as good. I used valve stems because they won't break (EVER)
 
got my links bent and added plastic pipe skids under the axles. my creeper is handling breakovers better and with the skids it's getting snagged on sharp edges less. got some rovers in the mail so i'm looking forward to the increased traction. had some pics but deleted them accidentally. have to get some more next time out.

not having used derlin much does anyone know how it handles cold weather? i'm thinking about running my creeper in the winter and making some spiked tires to crawl on a homemade ice course (covering the rock pile with water). i'm worried about the derlin getting a little too brittle.
 
so, heard an occasion click from the rear axles the last night or two. it seems kind of random, but it is when i have it under load. i searched the forum and i've seen everything from bad large outer hub bearing to missing teeth on a spider gear. given it is kind of random what do people think is the most likely culprit? if it was a missing tooth would it be a random click or more regular?
 
Its most likely a bad inner hub bearing (the larger of the two)... If you pull the hub and shaft out of the axle housing as an assembly you should be able to feel some roughness in the bearing as you turn it by hand... I had the exact same problem as you did, and since I replaced the large hub bearings the click hasn't come back (this was after I JB'd the diffs)...

If your spider gears packed it in it would make noise mostly when turning but could also click when driving straight ahead under load... Hold the driveshaft from turning while you turn one tire (with the diff unlocked)... If it's a diff you'll know right away (it will be chunky)... To check the ring and pinion just disconnect the driveshaft from the tranny and turn it by hand... should be fairly smooth (a little coggy because of the straight cut gear teeth)...
 
thanks speedyg. i'll look into some of these things. the click has been pretty rare so i'm waiting for it to get more consistent before i tear things apart.

on another note i got my creeper out on the rocks (sorry, didn't have a camera on me so no action pics) and the new rovers are awesome! compared to the stock tires traction is incredible. the axle skids also helped get over some of the sharper rocks.

i did get a couple pics from the workbench.
 

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for bent lower links just bend them i did that and no breeaks or bends i did not want i know i laubched it off a 4 foot log pile and i only broke the mounting ears on the front axle and did it again today and broke the rear ears off but it was pretty cold but i had to new cases so all good
 
got my links bent and added plastic pipe skids under the axles. my creeper is handling breakovers better and with the skids it's getting snagged on sharp edges less. got some rovers in the mail so i'm looking forward to the increased traction. had some pics but deleted them accidentally. have to get some more next time out.

not having used derlin much does anyone know how it handles cold weather? i'm thinking about running my creeper in the winter and making some spiked tires to crawl on a homemade ice course (covering the rock pile with water). i'm worried about the derlin getting a little too brittle.

Jeff,,,Delrin temp range, -40° to +185° F

Now,,that being said plastic is plastic,,the colder it gets the more brittle it will get. This is one of the very reasons I made my chassis from Aluminum and use Aluminum links. Except for maybe Teflon and UHMW I think just about all plastics are be prone to breakage at freezing temps.
 
i appreciate the info. i know that aluminum has better cold weather performance but i was curious at what point derlin will start having issues. i'm thinking about how i could use the creeper during the winter but when it comes right down to it if i just want to play in the snow that is what my kyosho nitro blizzard or traxxas summit is for.
 
ive got the same click in the rear axle

so, heard an occasion click from the rear axles the last night or two. it seems kind of random, but it is when i have it under load. i searched the forum and i've seen everything from bad large outer hub bearing to missing teeth on a spider gear. given it is kind of random what do people think is the most likely culprit? if it was a missing tooth would it be a random click or more regular?

it get worse if i tighten the right rear tires down
and disapears if i loosen it just enuff to run
 
i'll give it a try. i still have the stock plastic wheels and have noticed some slop in the hexes so i've been cranking down the locknut to help that. trying to fix that might be the source of the clicking.
 
Thats bearings,,,too much side load. These arent top of the line, ceramic, high side load bearings. These are probably rated at about 20-30lbs. Doesnt take much to pop them.

if it is the bearings do you recommend upgrading to ceramic bearings? i was looking at the price of acer racing ceramic bearings and they are pretty expensive. i can get 8 stock venom bearings for about $16.
 
and the winner is ... bad inner hub bearing! you called it speedy! "thumbsup"

now, just need to get some new ones. recommendations? as i mentioned in my last post ceramic bearing are pretty expensive. are they worth it?

oh yeah, and i ordered some flm lockers. might as well upgrade while i have things apart.
 
Cool... Glad I could help... Did you look into the set from CKRC? $15 a set... The ones I received from them had blue seals instead of black, which probably (hopefully) means they're not actual Venom-brand like the junky ones in the kit...

P.S. They put the same size ones on the diff carrier too, so keep an eye on your pinion backlash (if they fail the carrier/ring gear will move away from the pinion creating more in/out pinion movement)...
 
and the winner is ... bad inner hub bearing! you called it speedy! "thumbsup"

now, just need to get some new ones. recommendations? as i mentioned in my last post ceramic bearing are pretty expensive. are they worth it?

oh yeah, and i ordered some flm lockers. might as well upgrade while i have things apart.


You can also try Avid Bearing too,,,google 'em
 
picked up some traxxas revo bearings that were the right size for pretty cheap. fixed the problem. now i'm just waiting on my flm locker.
 
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