FREEDOM83
Rock Crawler
A ok, ignore these things. Great job Jato, now waiting for that bodywork , cheer up !!!
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A ok, ignore these things. Great job Jato, now waiting for that bodywork , cheer up !!!
The adapter was included so customers dont have to go out and purchase our specialized 8mm socket (thin wall). IMO thats a huge PITA, us including the adapter allowed you to finish the kit without purchasing tools outside of your normal RC related tools. No kudos?Making customs tools like that isnt cheap and its a decision we made at the last minute to include.
Of all the things I typed, you focused on the adapter socket? :razz: I gave kudos on plenty of other things.
Definitely kudos for including the tool. You didn't have to do that. That's the reason I showed it. I see how you could have gotten a different impression because I immediately went into the part about it being a PITA. But at the end of the day it is a huge PITA to carry something like that around and not lose it. It's not like it's something you can throw in a handle like your VPS08443 8mm driver. I'm sure you made the shafts larger for a good reason and the result was a larger nut, but it is kind of non standard for scalers and I thought it was noteworthy.
How did you fix the interference between the Panhard bar and the axle pumpkin?
Of all the things I typed, you focused on the adapter socket? :razz: I gave kudos on plenty of other things.
Definitely kudos for including the tool. You didn't have to do that. That's the reason I showed it. I see how you could have gotten a different impression because I immediately went into the part about it being a PITA. But at the end of the day it is a huge PITA to carry something like that around and not lose it. It's not like it's something you can throw in a handle like your VPS08443 8mm driver. I'm sure you made the shafts larger for a good reason and the result was a larger nut, but it is kind of non standard for scalers and I thought it was noteworthy.
How did you fix the interference between the Panhard bar and the axle pumpkin?
The shock height vs added portal height was made at the cost of some interference. The easiest adjustment is to unthread the rod ends at the bottom of the shocks 1-3mm (user preference). Just make sure the threaded portion is not traveling into the lower cartridge O-Rings.
This works because the shock body was only shortened 3mm, the shaft was shortened 7mm (to achieve the 80mm length). So you still have plenty of room inside the shock body for the shaft to travel an additional 1-3mm.
I've also seen some customers shave some plastic off the panhard rod end. Majority of customers don't even notice the minimal shock shaft exposed at full compression when the interference occurs.
You can decide if you want the lower COG or the additional height and travel. "thumbsup"
The Ultra's in the product video were ran completely stock and performed flawlessly. We have 80mm shocks on the way to sell repeatedly and I plan to run them on a C1 VS4-10 Pro Build thats in my head bouncing around.
The remaining 1 or 2mm of travel is probably more of a bench issue than a real world issue. Still drives me nuts though. :lmao:
I was thinking about shaving the Panhard rod end, but I'll probably just leave it be.
On a portal rig the lower COG is definitely paramount IMO. And even with 80mm shocks it feels like it has plenty of articulation for my needs. Right now my biggest concern with these portal axles is the reduction in steering. How much less steering do the portals have compared to the axles on the Limited and Pro?
Nice. I've always wanted to build a belly dragger, but never get around to it.
Origin Limited and Portal axle both have 45 degrees. While designing the Pro we made a running change to the knuckles to allow for 50 or 51 degrees, I will have to double check. Those knuckles were made after all the Origin Limited's had shipped. Those knuckles included on the Pro are not available separately at this time.
I think you will find the Ultra has plenty of steering for the trail. With the dig installed it becomes a non issue. The portal axles also have additional caster in them compared to the standard axle C's.
Nice running change! I'm glad I didn't get a Pro yet.
Good point about the dig. I didn't plan on putting a dig on this truck and then near the end of the build I decided I wanted one.
Topher Builds
I wanna be Dave
Nice updates Jato! Looking forward too seeing this one all done and hearing what you think about how it drives compared to your limited.
Interesting info! What are the odds of y’all making a shaft that’s shortened by 3mm to get us something close to an 85mm shock?
Interesting info! What are the odds of y’all making a shaft that’s shortened by 3mm to get us something close to an 85mm shock?
I ordered the Castle B-Link for this build, but it will be used on all builds with Castle ESC's in the future. What I mean by that is that I'm going to hook it up to this truck for the first trail run and have the ability to adjust the ESC settings on the fly. After testing it out it's really awesome. Although sometimes the ESC takes settings and other times it seems like it doesn't. I'd have each one of these on each of my trucks if it wasn't for the fact that they are $50 each.
I did notice this on my new Mamba X. Not sure what's going on, but I'm definitely going to contact Castle about it.
Here are some parts I picked up for this build.
The dig isn't in stock and I was able to find a NIP one on here at a nice discount. Score! And the Vanquish servo horn to, hopefully, eliminate the interference with the Panhard mount on the chassis. Lastly, I picked up some M4 spacers to put on the tierod. I had to unscrew the rod ends quite a bit in order to get the front wheels aligned. These spacers will be used to remove the exposed threads and help keep the rod ends tight and in place.
I did notice this on my new Mamba X. Not sure what's going on, but I'm definitely going to contact Castle about it.
Here are some parts I picked up for this build.
The dig isn't in stock and I was able to find a NIP one on here at a nice discount. Score! And the Vanquish servo horn to, hopefully, eliminate the interference with the Panhard mount on the chassis. Lastly, I picked up some M4 spacers to put on the tierod. I had to unscrew the rod ends quite a bit in order to get the front wheels aligned. These spacers will be used to remove the exposed threads and help keep the rod ends tight and in place.
Nice parts pickup!"thumbsup"
Love my Castle B-Link. Makes it nice to adjust settings out on the trail. I was dumb and bought 3 of them. One for each of my Mamba-X equipped rigs. Oh, well, it is always there in case I need to make adjustments!
The VP 20mm horn should take care of the problem. I have the 20mm on both my Origin and Pro and do not have any issues.
You may already know, but the DIG requires a VP 24mm servo horn to work properly in case you do not have one.
Love my Castle B-Link. Makes it nice to adjust settings out on the trail. I was dumb and bought 3 of them. One for each of my Mamba-X equipped rigs. Oh, well, it is always there in case I need to make adjustments!
The VP 20mm horn should take care of the problem. I have the 20mm on both my Origin and Pro and do not have any issues.
You may already know, but the DIG requires a VP 24mm servo horn to work properly in case you do not have one.
Thanks. I sent them an email right after posting that. I've been meaning to do it, but I kept forgetting.
Thank you.
I'm sure it's nice having one permanently on each rig.
Oh rats! Didn't even think about the servo horn for the dig. LOL I may have a 24mm horn. If not I'll be ordering one. Still not sure what servo I'm going to use anyway. Thanks for the heads up!
jason02ws6
Quarry Creeper
I ordered the Castle B-Link for this build, but it will be used on all builds with Castle ESC's in the future. What I mean by that is that I'm going to hook it up to this truck for the first trail run and have the ability to adjust the ESC settings on the fly. After testing it out it's really awesome. Although sometimes the ESC takes settings and other times it seems like it doesn't. I'd have each one of these on each of my trucks if it wasn't for the fact that they are $50 each.
I did notice this on my new Mamba X. Not sure what's going on, but I'm definitely going to contact Castle about it.
Here are some parts I picked up for this build.
The dig isn't in stock and I was able to find a NIP one on here at a nice discount. Score! And the Vanquish servo horn to, hopefully, eliminate the interference with the Panhard mount on the chassis. Lastly, I picked up some M4 spacers to put on the tierod. I had to unscrew the rod ends quite a bit in order to get the front wheels aligned. These spacers will be used to remove the exposed threads and help keep the rod ends tight and in place.
That’s dig looks a little familiar..... glad you are going to put it to use! Good idea on the spacers too man, I need to get some for mine as well. Seeing the threads bugs me.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
:ror: yes! The shock towers below should also look familiar.
Thanks for the speedy delivery!
I also bought the clear shock towers from Jason. They are virtually new. I received those yesterday along with a Traxxas receiver box. I'm going to try to use this instead of the fuel cell receiver box. I like the idea, but the fuel cell receiver box isn't wateproof. Also, it's way at the rear of the truck and I'll have to use servo extensions if I decide to use it.
The only work I was able to do last night was to install the shims on the tierod. As you can see in the photo, they don't seat perfectly against the Vanquish tierod because there's a taper there.
I don't like that the mounting screw hangs down below the knuckle. I'm going to either get a round head screw and thread it in from the bottom and use a lock nut on top or I'm just going to find a shorter cap head screw or maybe just trim this one.
I found with the aluminum shock towers that the body wouldn’t sit as low. On the front it didn’t matter because you can just lower the body posts. But in the rear with the truck body there is no way to make it lower and there is a gap that drove me nuts.
Bummer. I don't understand how the plastic shock towers and the aluminum towers are different to cause this.
I do wonder about the weight difference between the plastic versus the aluminum version!
I thought it was weird too. But they are the standard height shock towers.
Interesting! Thanks for sharing.
Would you do me a favor and, please, weight them so I know which weighs more? I'm guessing the difference is negligible. Thank you. "thumbsup"
sherbs
Quarry Creeper
The Pit Bull shocks will also not fit when using the metal towers in the rear. The slight angle causes them to hit and bind. Where as the originals were fine.
