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Jato the Ultra

I like the poop brown! Reminds me of a baseball glove. But I second Jason’s recommendation. I always hit the interior with a quick matte and it takes the shine out and makes it look more like fabric/leather.

PFE
 

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I also agree on using a flat clear. I use the Tamiya PS55 Flat clear on all of my interiors.

IMG_4329.jpg
 
I was on Castle's website a few days ago checking out ESC's and noticed that all of the Mamba X and combo's were out of stock or unavailable. Hopefully Castle can get you fixed up sooner than later!

Interior looks great!"thumbsup"

The black that is showing through gives the dash some depth and looks good! You couldn't of planned that any better!;-)

I think all electronics are going to take a big hit for a while.

Castle got back to me and said they just started making a new batch of the ESC's so it will be 1-1/2 to 2 weeks which is fine.

Your interior looks great!


You could hit is with some tamiya flat clear. That should tone down the poopiness a bit and make it look like a bomber leather interior. Just my 2 pennies.

I agree with all of you that Tamiya matte clear looks great. My LHS doesn't carry it and I often forget to order this paint with other orders. Buying it online, all by itself, is outrageously expensive.
 
I think all electronics are going to take a big hit for a while.



Castle got back to me and said they just started making a new batch of the ESC's so it will be 1-1/2 to 2 weeks which is fine.



Your interior looks great!









I agree with all of you that Tamiya matte clear looks great. My LHS doesn't carry it and I often forget to order this paint with other orders. Buying it online, all by itself, is outrageously expensive.



I feel you on that. I just ran out and will likely order some “just in case” with my next parts order. I like to keep it on stock.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My LHS doesn't carry it and I often forget to order this paint with other orders. Buying it online, all by itself, is outrageously expensive.

My LHS (Hobbytown) didn't carry it either. After I had them order it for me a few times, they decided to keep a couple cans on their shelf so they wouldn't have to keep special ordering it.

I agree with buying it online. It is outrageous! It was cheaper for me to have LHS order it!

I usually try to keep two cans on my shelf at home at all times.
 
I like color, for an interior. We were wanting to see the body now."thumbsup"

The Castle theme, I have read many things for which in the end I decided not to buy it, I will mount an AXE 2300kv at 3S in the PRO.

You will have to wait a little bit longer because the body is still unpainted. :lmao: I may just end up painting it myself instead of giving it to a painter once I can decide on a theme. I may borrow OSRC's patented silver and blue theme for this one. :mrgreen: It's gotta be blue since I chose the blue beadlock rings.

I used to hate Castle products, but they have changed a lot for the better over the years and now I'm a huge fan. They also have great customer service. What other big name brand will answer questions on this forum? You also get email responses the same day in most cases. The issue I had with this ESC is a fluke. It's the first time I've had a problem with a Mamba X ESC. I do like HobbyWing as well though so you should be happy with that system.
 
I used to hate Castle products, but they have changed a lot for the better over the years and now I'm a huge fan. They also have great customer service. What other big name brand will answer questions on this forum? You also get email responses the same day in most cases.
Castle's CS isn't just "great"...it's outstanding. Originally, I was using HW ESCs in my vehicles, but they're CS was "problematic" (to say the least). Castle, on the other hand, not only provides support via email & forums, but they also have excellent phone support. In calibrating & programming the Mamba X in CAPbRAstard (the Class 3 Capra I'm finishing up), I ran into a few problems (one of which turned out to be that my new Castle Link Quick Connect appears to have died prematurely).

The person I was speaking with not only spent the time to walk me through everything (even he was initially baffled as to what was causing problems, until the Quick Connect problem was finally realized), but he even started on the line until I was able to get the throttle's end-points properly set, so as to get the deadband down to 0.025ms. These guy are patient (unlike HW support), knowledgeable, and are TRULY interested in helping their customers get the most out of their products. Working in the service industry, if I could tip them, I would.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]
 
Castle's CS isn't just "great"...it's outstanding. Originally, I was using HW ESCs in my vehicles, but they're CS was "problematic" (to say the least). Castle, on the other hand, not only provides support via email & forums, but they also have excellent phone support. In calibrating & programming the Mamba X in CAPbRAstard (the Class 3 Capra I'm finishing up), I ran into a few problems (one of which turned out to be that my new Castle Link Quick Connect appears to have died prematurely).

The person I was speaking with not only spent the time to walk me through everything (even he was initially baffled as to what was causing problems, until the Quick Connect problem was finally realized), but he even started on the line until I was able to get the throttle's end-points properly set, so as to get the deadband down to 0.025ms. These guy are patient (unlike HW support), knowledgeable, and are TRULY interested in helping their customers get the most out of their products. Working in the service industry, if I could tip them, I would.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

I love HobbyWing, but I've never had a single issue with any of their stuff so I never had to deal with their customer service. I buy direct from HobbyWing Direct which is an authorized US retailer.


I think it took me a year to finally remember to order a can.

Hey our memories sound similar! :lmao:
 
The replacement Mamba X came in from Castle so that restarted this build. They even included the XT60 connector from the ESC that I sent back.




On this build, I am going to use a peasant's device - a BEC - because the Sfeer servo that I am using isn't the quickest or strongest on 6.0V. So I'll be setting this at 7.4V to max out the Chinese servo.




I mounted the ESC in this orientation so that wires would clear the interior. I'm glad I took the time to check the clearances before sticking it to the chassis.




I am jealous of those of you who have the talent for clean wiring. I do not. Even when I try it seems like the wires just don't line up to make clean bundles. So I end up with a rats nest like this! :ror: The Castle B-Link is just temporary. I'll remove that after the first trail run or so when I'm happy with my settings. I'm going to have to remember to get this truck too wet or I'll have to come up with another receiver box plan. Or maybe I'll give in and put everything in the fuel cell eventually.

I decided to not use the stock fuel cell/receiver box because it's at the rear of the chassis and I didn't want to put servo extension on everything.

I wasn't sure what to do with the long receiver antenna so I zip-tied a piece of antenna tube to the chassis. The antenna takes up the entire length of the tube so it won't easily slip out.

In these photos you can also see the battery stop that I designed and printed. I wasn't confident that one strap was going to hold the battery in place.

I also replaced the screws that attach the metal side plate to the chassis which is under the battery. I figured button head screws would be safer for the battery than cap head screws.

The rear battery tray is very nice, but if you are using the dig you have to put the battery on the floorboard. For the side-mounted battery, the only provision you get from Vanquish is a single strap to hold the battery. You could use a second battery strap, but there's no slot for it cut into the sheet metal plate.






It felt like spring this weekend so that gave me some time to paint on Sunday. I decided to try Tamiya's Dark Metallic Blue PS-59 backed with Gold PS-13 and then Duratrax Base Cover Black. I may never buy another uncut body again. Pre-cut bodies are so damn nice and cut out so much work! You can tell I haven't painted in a while because I washed the body and was all ready to spray it. Woah I need to apply the masks first. And then I applied the first mask sticker on the outside of the body! Doh! WTH are you doing?! Good think it was the smallest of the bunch - the taillight - so it came off easily. Freaking newb mistakes! :lmao:

It's a little dark, as expected, but I really like it. It is going to need an accent color though. I'm thinking about a white stripe. For the grille, I'm thinking about painting it silver or maybe even white. I'm leaning towards silver though. I think Molotow chrome would be great if I had somebody to airbrush it for me. What do you guys think?






I particularly like this shot. It reminds me of back in the day when I was a kid and my dad would do body work on cars. All the parts and accessories are removed from the body so you have just the sheet metal. To me, the body looks like a sheet metal shell in this photo and I think it's cool.

 
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I had similar thoughts about the last picture when I was it on it on Instagram. Has a great, WIP in the field, nearing the light at the end of the tunnel, type of vibe. Really digging this color too! Will be a great combo with the interior color you chose. Nice work "thumbsup"

What voltage are you running your steering servo at? I think the 555 is 7.4v preferred as well, if you wanted you could likely ditch the bec and run the dig and steering servo through the mamba x internal bec.
 
I had similar thoughts about the last picture when I was it on it on Instagram. Has a great, WIP in the field, nearing the light at the end of the tunnel, type of vibe. Really digging this color too! Will be a great combo with the interior color you chose. Nice work "thumbsup"

What voltage are you running your steering servo at? I think the 555 is 7.4v preferred as well, if you wanted you could likely ditch the bec and run the dig and steering servo through the mamba x internal bec.

Thank you!

I'm also thinking maybe making the top white or even just flat clearing over it.

It's a Sfeers servo meaning it's from China. It's not branded Reefs, but I'd be shocked if they aren't the exact same servo. I am running it at 7.4V from the BEC. My FlySky receivers can't take more than 6.0V and that's the only reason I'm using an external BEC.


I am digging that paint color! Nice update too!!!

Cheers,
Doc

Thank you!
 
That looks like a BS6 receiver? If so those can handle higher voltage, up to 8.4v

Specifications of the Receiver:
Model Name: FS-BS6
Channels: 6CH
RF range: 2.408-2.475 GHz
RF channel: 135
RX sensitivity: -92dBm
2.4 GHz system: AFHDS 2A
Modulation type: GFSK
Power consumption: 4.0-8.4V DC
Dimension: 30* 22* 16mm
Weight:8g
 
That looks like a BS6 receiver? If so those can handle higher voltage, up to 8.4v

Specifications of the Receiver:
Model Name: FS-BS6
Channels: 6CH
RF range: 2.408-2.475 GHz
RF channel: 135
RX sensitivity: -92dBm
2.4 GHz system: AFHDS 2A
Modulation type: GFSK
Power consumption: 4.0-8.4V DC
Dimension: 30* 22* 16mm
Weight:8g

Yes, the BS6. Where did you find your information? I've always found conflicting information.

On the website it says: Power: 4.0-6.5V
https://www.flysky-cn.com/bs6-canshu

But in the manual (page 17) from the same website it says: Power input: 4.0 - 8.4V

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...1543387771736/FS-GT5+User+manual+20171219.pdf
 
Yes, the BS6. Where did you find your information? I've always found conflicting information.

On the website it says: Power: 4.0-6.5V
https://www.flysky-cn.com/bs6-canshu

But in the manual (page 17) from the same website it says: Power input: 4.0 - 8.4V

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...1543387771736/FS-GT5+User+manual+20171219.pdf

IIRC either the specs, or perhaps the hardware itself, was updated to show the 8.4v a while back after the GT5 was released. The info I pulled was from one of the sites that sells the GT5. Can’t remember which one now. But fwiw I run all my bs6 receivers on 7.4v or higher from the mamba x.
 
Ver' purty!!

White stripe - yes
Chrome grille - yes
Clean up wiring - yes
Have I ever masked the outside of a light area - yes :oops: :ror:

Thank you!


IIRC either the specs, or perhaps the hardware itself, was updated to show the 8.4v a while back after the GT5 was released. The info I pulled was from one of the sites that sells the GT5. Can’t remember which one now. But fwiw I run all my bs6 receivers on 7.4v or higher from the mamba x.

Perfect! Thanks for the info. I'll have to try it then.
 
Yes, the BS6. Where did you find your information? I've always found conflicting information.

On the website it says: Power: 4.0-6.5V
https://www.flysky-cn.com/bs6-canshu

But in the manual (page 17) from the same website it says: Power input: 4.0 - 8.4V

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...1543387771736/FS-GT5+User+manual+20171219.pdf

Mine is dark blue with some stripes for reference:
LqjJKwxl.jpg

R3IN83ol.jpg

Nvt19kOl.jpg


I think some white would really help it pop.
 
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