OSRC
I wanna be Dave
What's with the fenders - are they fully attached in this pic? Look like they are not flush with the body, to my eyes there's an odd gap in there.
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Jato the SCX10 Take III
- Thread starter JatoTheRipper
- Start date
What's with the fenders - are they fully attached in this pic? Look like they are not flush with the body, to my eyes there's an odd gap in there.
What color did you use to paint it?
I didn't notice it until posting these photos. I'm not sure. I think that's how they fit because I've seen others like it. I'll have to double check when I remember.
Tamiya Gun Metal backed with gold backed with black.
bikepilot
Pebble Pounder
Looks great jato!! Good job!!! What size are the tires?? I don't think they look too small. I reread the thread 3 times and couldn't find it!!
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iplaywithrocks
Rock Stacker
What wheels are these ? I hear method wheels fit these but the slw hub thing confuses me .
Gun metal can be a brutal color . You nailed it !
I agree best body so far except the sticker on the front fenders is shameful imo . They came so close except the awful sticker.
Gun metal can be a brutal color . You nailed it !
I agree best body so far except the sticker on the front fenders is shameful imo . They came so close except the awful sticker.
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eBay specials. SLW compatible hubs are included. SLW hubs all have the same bolt pattern, but the widths are different which b creates a different offset. Chinese "SLW" hubs use metric hardware whereas real SLW hubs use standard screws.
Thank you!
The fact that the front fenders hang off of the body at the front is a problem too. That gap looks...not the greatest.
One thing I forgot to mention about the body is that the inner half of the fenders contain provision for routing wires. Very nice touch to this part.
I had the dreaded "clicking" in my transmission. Apparently, somebody on YouTube determined it was caused by an issue, that supposedly dates back to the SCX10 II kit, where some of the transmission gears have slots for the pins on both sides yet the gears are not symmetrical. Only one side of this gear is cut to allow for the pins whereas the other side of the gears have slots with a rectangular profile that obviously doesn't fit nicely against a round pin. I had overlooked this during assembly.
I tightened my spur more than I realized. There goes a 1.5mm MIP Speed Tip. This one was oddly rusting anyway so I ordered up a new one.
As I removed the bell housing from the transmission, in order to verify the positioning of the gears with the slots, I noticed something didn't feel right, but I continued on anyway. I did verify that one of the gears was backwards so I fixed that and reassembled the transmission. That's when I noticed that turning the input shaft wouldn't spin the output shafts. I had to disassemble the entire transmission because another pin fell out somewhere during the first disassembly. So frustrating. I stripped the transmission all the way down and finally found the pin. I essentially completely disassembled and reassembled this transmission. I disassembled it even more after taking this photo. It was a frustrating night. Harley was keeping me company while he was simultaneously building the Element Builder's Kit live on the Tube. I love my Chromebook for things like this!
I also picked up a Tekin Hotwire 3.0 to program the BXR. Right now it's not playing well with my iPhone. I'm awaiting a response from Tekin's customer service to try to get to the bottom of it. They are out of office due to COVID-19 though. I also don't see a way to keep the Hotwire attached while running the truck, but hopefully I'm wrong about that.
I had the dreaded "clicking" in my transmission. Apparently, somebody on YouTube determined it was caused by an issue, that supposedly dates back to the SCX10 II kit, where some of the transmission gears have slots for the pins on both sides yet the gears are not symmetrical. Only one side of this gear is cut to allow for the pins whereas the other side of the gears have slots with a rectangular profile that obviously doesn't fit nicely against a round pin. I had overlooked this during assembly.
I tightened my spur more than I realized. There goes a 1.5mm MIP Speed Tip. This one was oddly rusting anyway so I ordered up a new one.
As I removed the bell housing from the transmission, in order to verify the positioning of the gears with the slots, I noticed something didn't feel right, but I continued on anyway. I did verify that one of the gears was backwards so I fixed that and reassembled the transmission. That's when I noticed that turning the input shaft wouldn't spin the output shafts. I had to disassemble the entire transmission because another pin fell out somewhere during the first disassembly. So frustrating. I stripped the transmission all the way down and finally found the pin. I essentially completely disassembled and reassembled this transmission. I disassembled it even more after taking this photo. It was a frustrating night. Harley was keeping me company while he was simultaneously building the Element Builder's Kit live on the Tube. I love my Chromebook for things like this!
I also picked up a Tekin Hotwire 3.0 to program the BXR. Right now it's not playing well with my iPhone. I'm awaiting a response from Tekin's customer service to try to get to the bottom of it. They are out of office due to COVID-19 though. I also don't see a way to keep the Hotwire attached while running the truck, but hopefully I'm wrong about that.
Sniper4370
Quarry Creeper
That looks like the same power driver he was using (I watched too). If it is, how do you like it?
2mtech
RCC Addict
So that's what those are for. I couldn't puzzle out what purpose they could possibly serve, since I stopped doing fiddly lights long ago and don't think in terms of underbody wiring anymore. Nice!
Sorry you had a frustrating evening. Just walk away....................
Hey, that wasn't your grandma up there holding the Coors light can and the sign saying "Need More Beer!!", was it?? :lmao:
Yes, Harley uses the DeWalt gryo as well. I love it, but I also hate it. The clutch is awesome - best I've found for screwing into RC plastics - but the gyro is hokey as hell. I'd rather have an analog trigger. The gyro definitely takes some time to learn, but it's getting to the point where I do it without thinking. I'd still prefer a regular trigger though.
Sometimes I mess with lights when I went to get tortured. :lmao: They do look good though.
I took some deep breaths. LOL
Sniper4370
Quarry Creeper
The gyro was what I was really curious about. Kinda figured it might be a bit wonky. I have a little cheapy B&D I may try to use. No clutch but, it is pretty slow so it may work. Now just to get some drivers. Rig is looking great BTW! "thumbsup" I think I used the Gunmetal for my Cherokee SCX10.2
I used a Craftsman electric screwdriver with a clutch before the DeWalt and I was just as happy with that. That only has high and low speeds, but it's still fine. For bits checkout MIP Speed Tips. Although there's a lot of competition these days.
Thank you!
trackman
Rock Stacker
hey jato if you don't mind me asking what foams are you running in those tires? just bought a set and have no idea where to start with foams.
you did a great job on your build.
you did a great job on your build.
The build is looking great so far!"thumbsup"
Nice job on the body! The gun metals have always been one of my favorite colors. Though they can be a pain to spray sometimes. I normally back with white before backing with black. It lightens it up a bit and helps make the metal flake shine a little better.
Too bad about the windows! I know how you feel! I've done the same thing. Painted a body once without any window masking. Took forever to get the paint back off the windows. I tried Nitro fuel and brake fluid. Ended up using the brake fluid. It was a very slow and painful process!
Nice job on the body! The gun metals have always been one of my favorite colors. Though they can be a pain to spray sometimes. I normally back with white before backing with black. It lightens it up a bit and helps make the metal flake shine a little better.
Too bad about the windows! I know how you feel! I've done the same thing. Painted a body once without any window masking. Took forever to get the paint back off the windows. I tried Nitro fuel and brake fluid. Ended up using the brake fluid. It was a very slow and painful process!
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
If you have any scrap lexan for testing I will share a styrene paint removal trick.
Acetone!
Yeah I know acetone melts plastic......BUT I learned if you dilute with 20% water it will remove paint and not melt. use your scrap piece to test.
I routinly did this as it removes lacquer. 91% alcohol also works but slower.
Acetone!
Yeah I know acetone melts plastic......BUT I learned if you dilute with 20% water it will remove paint and not melt. use your scrap piece to test.
I routinly did this as it removes lacquer. 91% alcohol also works but slower.
I am going to start with the stock foams. Stock foams tend to be better in smaller tires like this in my experience. It's the taller and wider tires that seem to suffer most and flop around due to soft foams. These seem alright, but the real world will be the true test. Also, I'm not sure you'll find any aftermarket foams narrow enough for those tires without cutting them down.
Thank you!
Thank you!
I have some Tamiya polycarbonate cleaner on the way. That's not scheduled to be here until May so I also ordered some Testors ELO. Hopefully that makes it easy to remove the paint on the windows. The ELO is supposed to be here by Saturday. Testors did confirm it is fine for Lexan, but they threw in the CYA of suggesting I test it first to make sure.
Thank you. I'll try those if the ELO doesn't work.
That's some funny right thar, I like it too! :lmao:"thumbsup"
Great suggestion, I've also used nail polish remover mixed with acetone, got a bottle all mixed up sitting around but kinda forgot about it until you mentioned this! "thumbsup"8)
Jeep's looking good Tim!
MeanTT
Rock Crawler
Any thoughts on the performance of the Truxus? I have some on order along with a few other sets. I tend to like the 4.6 sized tire and thought they would look pretty scale.
I can’t find a review from a knowledgeable person anywhere. Do share. Maybe test as compared to something other than the Hyrax. I really like the KM3 on my gen 8 with proline foams. Like the my MT/Rs a whole lot on the 4-10 and UMG. most of my running is trail running though so take that fwiw.
I can’t find a review from a knowledgeable person anywhere. Do share. Maybe test as compared to something other than the Hyrax. I really like the KM3 on my gen 8 with proline foams. Like the my MT/Rs a whole lot on the 4-10 and UMG. most of my running is trail running though so take that fwiw.
That's some funny right thar, I like it too! :lmao:"thumbsup"
Jeep's looking good Tim!
Great minds think alike! :ror:
Thank you!
Sorry, I haven't had a chance to run the TrXuS yet. I'm still annoyed that they don't offer them in Predator compound yet. I think it would do very well for this tire. G8 is still very good, but it's certainly stiffer than Predator. These tires have a tight tread pattern which makes them less compliant to begin with. I think the added flexibility of the Predator would help. I also think the tight tread pattern will get clogged up easily and often by wet sand, gravel or mud which is a common hazard around here. These are all assumptions though. I'll definitely give feedback once we're let out of our COVID-19 cages.
I love the size though and that's why I got them. Like you, I'm a big fan of this tire size and wish they would make more tires in this 4.4" to 4.6" range especially with this narrower and more realistic look width like the TrXuS.
