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Yep, that's one of the options I found. It doesn't seem available in the US so I'm guessing it's some environmental nonsense. Have you used this one yourself?

I have not but a local out here has and it has worked great for him.

Just ordered some off eBay to have in the future but might take till May to get here.
 
Yep, that's one of the options I found. It doesn't seem available in the US so I'm guessing it's some environmental nonsense. Have you used this one yourself?

That works great. You can buy it off eBay.

I cleared out my Redcat Gen8 windows with it.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/redc...redcat-fleet-gen8-scout-ii-2.html#post5929332


As far as applying the window tint decals... you need to treat it light car tint in order to apply with proper alignment and no bubbles.
Use light soapwater on the area you want to apply to. Then place decal and let it slide into position. Then start squeegee'ing the bubbles out.
 
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I have not but a local out here has and it has worked great for him.

Just ordered some off eBay to have in the future but might take till May to get here.

Thanks for the feedback! I may order some as well.


That works great. You can buy it off eBay.

I cleared out my Redcat Gen8 windows with it.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/redc...redcat-fleet-gen8-scout-ii-2.html#post5929332


As far as applying the window tint decals... you need to treat it light car tint in order to apply with proper alignment and no bubbles.
Use light soapwater on the area you want to apply to. Then place decal and let it slide into position. Then start squeegee'ing the bubbles out.

Awesome, soze! Thanks for the input. I'm glad to know it works well.

I'll have to try the soap water method. I've never tried that with adhesive decals. Thank you.
 
Watch me hijack this thread even further by asking how to start window masks so they don't come out perfectly aligned at one end and with a big gap at the other...:roll: I'm at that point.

I'm going to try the waterslide trick too I think...worked on my 1:1 car graphics, so who know...?
 
Once you do you'll never slap a decal onto a dry body again.

You're probably right.


Watch me hijack this thread even further by asking how to start window masks so they don't come out perfectly aligned at one end and with a big gap at the other...:roll: I'm at that point.

I'm going to try the waterslide trick too I think...worked on my 1:1 car graphics, so who know...?

It's not easy getting the masks centered and/or square to the window. What I do is cut the mask off of the sheet leaving around a 1/8" border of the backer around the entire mask. Then I decide which side I want to stick first, typically I do short sides because it's easier, but choosing long sides makes it easier to align, and then I peel back about 1/2" of the backing paper. I stick that "free" side on the window and then slowly peel the backer away as I depress the mask onto the window. I hope that rambling makes sense for you.
 
It's not easy getting the masks centered and/or square to the window. What I do is cut the mask off of the sheet leaving around a 1/8" border of the backer around the entire mask. Then I decide which side I want to stick first, typically I do short sides because it's easier, but choosing long sides makes it easier to align, and then I peel back about 1/2" of the backing paper. I stick that "free" side on the window and then slowly peel the backer away as I depress the mask onto the window. I hope that rambling makes sense for you.

Nice! I'm going to try that tonight...thanks!

I'm still looking for a 1/10 scale credit card to squeeze air bubbles out of the window stickers with....
 
I'm still looking for a 1/10 scale credit card to squeeze air bubbles out of the window stickers with....

Spray the windows down with soapy water first. You can squeeze the bubbles out with your finger and a paper towel.
 
I guess that went over my head. The way the windows are set into the body, you can't use a credit card to get the bubbles out from under the decals.
 
I guess that went over my head. The way the windows are set into the body, you can't use a credit card to get the bubbles out from under the decals.

That's why it would have to be 1/10 scale! :) I haven't had good luck using fingers on such things, too much give on flesh. May have to raid the GF's makeup stash for those tapered wooden skewer things again, whatever they use those for...?
 
I guess that went over my head. The way the windows are set into the body, you can't use a credit card to get the bubbles out from under the decals.

A 1/10th credit card should do! The inset windows are nice. It gives the body depth and some realism.
 
:lmao:



I guess he'll need a 1/10 scale paper towel? ;-)

You're no fun. Where's your sense of the scale experience? :lmao:



Nope...couldn't find any now!!

:lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao:

OK that had me seriously laugh out loud. First with the scale paper towel and then the veiled reference to the AHOLE hoarders that keep clearing the shelves of paper towels / toilet paper / etc.....

I live in the North East and TP is getting low in the house with no leaves on the trees for backup!!!!
 
It's not easy getting the masks centered and/or square to the window. What I do is cut the mask off of the sheet leaving around a 1/8" border of the backer around the entire mask. Then I decide which side I want to stick first, typically I do short sides because it's easier, but choosing long sides makes it easier to align, and then I peel back about 1/2" of the backing paper. I stick that "free" side on the window and then slowly peel the backer away as I depress the mask onto the window. I hope that rambling makes sense for you.

Holy shit, but this is the Tip of the Week! That worked so perfectly I wish I had known or thought about doing that about 10 kits ago. Spot on, my friend! "thumbsup"
 
Holy shit, but this is the Tip of the Week! That worked so perfectly I wish I had known or thought about doing that about 10 kits ago. Spot on, my friend! "thumbsup"

I wish it worked that well for me! LOL I still sometimes struggle to get masks on correctly. But I am glad it worked for you. I'm happy to help.
 
I wish it worked that well for me! LOL I still sometimes struggle to get masks on correctly. But I am glad it worked for you. I'm happy to help.

Wow, that "View First Unread" widget am not my friend...I missed all your build updates from yesterday. You caught right up!

How you were able to get the motor and servo wires up front stuffed behind and under the motor cover and belt & pulley assembly is beyond me, but good on ya!

And yes, I may never fear window masks again...at least until the next build.
 
Wow, that "View First Unread" widget am not my friend...I missed all your build updates from yesterday. You caught right up!

How you were able to get the motor and servo wires up front stuffed behind and under the motor cover and belt & pulley assembly is beyond me, but good on ya!

And yes, I may never fear window masks again...at least until the next build.

I didn't have a problem fitting the wires in there. There's a decent amount of room between the motor and the faux engine. It's probably tight with a 550, but a 540 leaves you room.

Haha.
 
I'm excited to get this body finished. It is so nice...just excellent. It's easily one of the best Lexan bodies in terms of scale details. And it just looks darn good. Everything is pre-cut and pre-drilled which is so nice! When are the aftermarket bodies going to start offering this on the majority of their bodies.

The gun metal is a little too dark, but I think the light gun metal would have looked to much like silver. Maybe I should have backed this with gold and then black instead of just black. Oh well, I still like it.

If I'm honest I'd say I think the TrXuS tires may be a little too small for this body.

Look at that front end! It's one of the best looking ones out there. The precut grille is excellent. Can you imagine having to cut that out?! Rich said on Harley/SBG's live stream last night that he did have to hand cut those out on some of the prototype models. Ugh! The radiator behind the grille, that includes the chrome plated headlight bucks, just looks so good. I'm a big fan of this body despite the fact that it's a Jeep. I don't hate Jeeps like some people think. And this one does the 1:1's justice. I reached out to Rich and told him how good of a job they did with this body. This body and the Blazer/Bronco from Traxxas have raised the bar so high. Time for other companies, especially the aftermarket body companies, to step up.










One of the idiot windows. :roll:

 
Definitely agree this is an awesome body. My GF was just now tripping on all the accessories that came with it. She wanted to know why I wasn't going to do the big WRANGLER graphic I had planned...I showed her the body and asked her where it would go!
 
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