So it probably is a tolerance stack-up issue then or a part out of spec.
The overall of the link from tip to tip without rod ends?
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Jato Gets Offerings to Build the Teal Terrifier H10 Optic
- Thread starter JatoTheRipper
- Start date
The overall of the link from tip to tip without rod ends?
Yes. Thats how they sell their links too.
That makes sense, but they should also include a dimension for the finished, assembled link. They just provide true-to-scale drawings for that. I prefer dimensions.
Yes, it uses the same programming card as the one that comes with the 1080 or what HobbyWing calls the "LED Program Card", BUT the buttons are different. The Fusion Pro comes with a sticker to put over the existing labels on this LED programmer.
The "Multifunction LCD Program Box PRO (G3)", pictured above in this thread, does not work with the Fusion Pro from what I understand.
I got a little more wrenching on the cage done last night. Still waiting for my servo to ship.
Bag G is the cage. Missing from the photo are the two main side pieces.
I couldn't find the parts that hold the side panels/battery door tab into place. Thanks to @B-MOW71 I looked inside the battery tray, where his were hiding, and mine stayed in there for the entire ride from Asia as well. Crazy!
I ran into a little snag with the rear piece. It's warped like a pretzel. I'm guessing somebody took it out of the mold before it was fully cured. I sent an email with photo to Vanquish last night for a replacement.
I have to say this is a good looking cage. The chassis is solid once screwed together. I don't like the coarse threaded screws, but I didn't bother replacing with fine threads. Did any of you? Vanquish swears they did this as coarse threads have proven to pull out less or something like that. I'm honestly not buying that fine threads would cause any problems.
And now we wait for parts and more time to wrench.
Bag G is the cage. Missing from the photo are the two main side pieces.
I couldn't find the parts that hold the side panels/battery door tab into place. Thanks to @B-MOW71 I looked inside the battery tray, where his were hiding, and mine stayed in there for the entire ride from Asia as well. Crazy!
I ran into a little snag with the rear piece. It's warped like a pretzel. I'm guessing somebody took it out of the mold before it was fully cured. I sent an email with photo to Vanquish last night for a replacement.
I have to say this is a good looking cage. The chassis is solid once screwed together. I don't like the coarse threaded screws, but I didn't bother replacing with fine threads. Did any of you? Vanquish swears they did this as coarse threads have proven to pull out less or something like that. I'm honestly not buying that fine threads would cause any problems.
And now we wait for parts and more time to wrench.
svt923
I wanna be Dave
The teal panels look awesome, I don't know why Vanquish insists on covering so much of that great color with stickers.
Man, that teal color is sexy as hell ( Love the Hamburger Helper/ Pinky-Stinky mascot too).
Most people will never have an issue with fine threads for a cage but once you start to install/ remove hardware over and over again ( along with some pulling/ twisting of that cage over time), having fine threads in that plastic would become more prone to stripping. I think they did it right.
Most people will never have an issue with fine threads for a cage but once you start to install/ remove hardware over and over again ( along with some pulling/ twisting of that cage over time), having fine threads in that plastic would become more prone to stripping. I think they did it right.
Hamburger Helper/Pinky-Stinky mascot!!!
I always try to put screws back in the threads that have been cut into the plastic during the first install. Never had a problem. I remember back in the OG Axial days, everybody was switching out the coarse cage hardware to fine threads. How times change...
Vanquish responded to my email and said they put in the order to ship me a replacement for the defective rear cage piece. 
The VFD cap with the faux gear shifters is optional. Seriously, Vanquish? In order to get this part, you have to buy the VPS10131 parts tree the includes useless items such as the plastic motor plate, plastic standoffs, plastic spur gear hub, and bearing retainers for this transmission. Come on Vanquish.
Believe it or not, the RTR Optic comes WITH the optional gear cover, and the little plastic shifter balls...
They are in the little bag with the batteries for the transmitter. Also has the plain shifter cover.
meatmonkey
I wanna be Dave
I made sure to use fine thread bolts anywhere I felt future disassembly would be required. The course thread bolts don't give me warm puzzles. I was surprised Vanquish specd them for upper shock mounting!
But I also used longer bolts with nuts on much of the suspension and steering hardware.
Actually, now that I look at it I have quite the pile of hardware left over...
But I also used longer bolts with nuts on much of the suspension and steering hardware.
Actually, now that I look at it I have quite the pile of hardware left over...
I usually replace all of the course thread screws with fine threaded screws. I didn’t on my stock Optic cage yet, but will replace all of the screws eventually. I think the fine thread do a better job.
Glad to hear VP is taking care of your crippled rear end!
Glad to hear VP is taking care of your crippled rear end!
Good idea on the shock mounts. If you remember which size screws you used, please let me know. I should order up a kit of black oxide.
Yep and it should be here Friday.I usually replace all of the course thread screws with fine threaded screws. I didn’t on my stock Optic cage yet, but will replace all of the screws eventually. I think the fine thread do a better job.
Glad to hear VP is taking care of your crippled rear end!
We were finally able to get together with my mom to exchange gifts. We saw her on Christmas at the family gathering, but we save gift exchanges for a smaller gathering. She got me a few nice things. I only asked for one thing and she got it. These Treal brass knuckles are heavy! 150g each or 5.29oz. I may end up needing to add some weight to the rear to balance it out. We shall see.
Those are still on my want list. The we’re out of stock the last time I checked. Can’t wait to see how they look mounted up.Good idea on the shock mounts. If you remember which size screws you used, please let me know. I should order up a kit of black oxide.
Yep and it should be here Friday.
We were finally able to get together with my mom to exchange gifts. We saw her on Christmas at the family gathering, but we save gift exchanges for a smaller gathering. She got me a few nice things. I only asked for one thing and she got it. These Treal brass knuckles are heavy! 150g each or 5.29oz. I may end up needing to add some weight to the rear to balance it out. We shall see.
Let's install these beefy sum bitches.
Just look at them compared to the stock knuckles! These Treal H10 knuckles weigh 150 grams (5.29 ounces) per side for a total adder of 300g (10.58oz). That's in comparison to the SSD knuckles I just received for my VS4-10 Fordyce that weight 71g each for a total of 142 grams (5.00 oz). Insane. To me, this looks like too much weight up front and I may have to add some to the rear of my Optic, but time will tell.
I also added M2x6mm @Locked Up scale hardware. To me the bolt heads look a little large and out of scale, but everything up front is beefy now so it doesn't look too bad.
I don't know how @B-MOW71 gets such good photos with his iPhone. Mine always look like
. This series of pics after install look particularly bad. It looks like a Parkinson's patient took this photo. Anyway...ta-da!
Just look at them compared to the stock knuckles! These Treal H10 knuckles weigh 150 grams (5.29 ounces) per side for a total adder of 300g (10.58oz). That's in comparison to the SSD knuckles I just received for my VS4-10 Fordyce that weight 71g each for a total of 142 grams (5.00 oz). Insane. To me, this looks like too much weight up front and I may have to add some to the rear of my Optic, but time will tell.
I also added M2x6mm @Locked Up scale hardware. To me the bolt heads look a little large and out of scale, but everything up front is beefy now so it doesn't look too bad.
I don't know how @B-MOW71 gets such good photos with his iPhone. Mine always look like
. This series of pics after install look particularly bad. It looks like a Parkinson's patient took this photo. Anyway...ta-da!
I had the same concern with the knuckles I used on my wraith. I ended up trimming a chunk of weight off vs adding more weight to compensate.Let's install these beefy sum bitches.
Just look at them compared to the stock knuckles! These Treal H10 knuckles weigh 150 grams (5.29 ounces) per side for a total adder of 300g (10.58oz). That's in comparison to the SSD knuckles I just received for my VS4-10 Fordyce that weight 71g each for a total of 142 grams (5.00 oz). Insane. To me, this looks like too much weight up front and I may have to add some to the rear of my Optic, but time will tell.
I've been huffing Tamiya Lacquer Paints, Isopropyl Alcohol and brush cleaner the past few days adding details to this rig.
I bought Tamiya LP-48 Sparkling Silver and then LP-52 Clear Red and LP-68 Clear Blue to try to replicate an anodized aluminum finish for the hose fittings. Why can't anybody make a silver that doesn't separate during painting? I have never found a silver that isn't constantly streaky or fighting to separate. This paint included. This is about as good as my lackluster paint skills get, but it looks good from far away. The Vanquish logo is also painted silver and then coated in clear red. It looks wet, but is completely dry.
Oh and Vanquish includes one of their awesome, red anodized caps for the fuel cell!
My plan was to coat the Power Tank (not a fire extinguisher) in silver and then coat it in blue for the anodized aluminum look, which is a color they offer, but after finding that the silver is streaky AF and painting clear over it with a brush isn't as easy as it seemed in my dim bulb, I decided to paint it with LP-40 Metallic Black instead. I wanted to do the fuel cell in this color as well, but again the paint was more of a pain than I expected so I'm not doing that. Really, these components should have been spray painted I guess. The valve is painted silver and the knob got clear red over it. You can really see the uneven lines up close in the photos, but not from arm's length.
Overall, it doesn't look too bad from far away, but I'm not looking forward to painting the interior.
I took time painting the radiator silver and you can barely see it. Doh! I also think the manual is wrong at the step showing installation of the radiator. You can't use these holes. The radiator is too wide. You have to use the holes above the ones shown.
Up next is wheels and tars! My favorite!
The Trepadors seem to be the go-to tire for this rig because they are slightly larger in diameter than the average 1.9 XL tire. And I mean slightly. This is the 4.9" / 124mm Trepador on the left vs a 4.75" / 121mm KM3 on the right.
I mounted one Trepador to the TSS Stockerz wheels to observe the clearance at full steering lock. Sadly, these wheels do not even fit over the knuckle weights!
It's a sign of the age of these wheels as knuckle weights weren't a thing or at least not a big thing back then. We still put lead wheel balancing weights on the RC wheels.
Earlier in the night, I went on a scavenger hunt in my house and attached garage. My order history on the Vanquish website showed that I ordered a pair of 1.9 Machete V2 wheels. I wondered why I would only order two wheels. So my plan was to find the 2 and order 2 more. Well low and behold, I found these in my garage. Four brand new Proline 1.9 KM3 tires mounted to four brand new Vanquish 1.9 Machete v2 wheels! Reminiscing in my dim bulb, I believe I got two of the Machetes on a deep sale since that's all that were in stock and then I decided to order the other two directly from Vanquish.
These beauties will have to suffice. I love these wheels. I just wish Vanquish would stop being stubborn and offer real clear anodizing instead of this matte finish!
Mmm! Me likey!
I installed a Fanquish hub which is close to a.350 SLW hub and these tires rub the lower links at full steering lock. So I have to either order high clearance links and turn them for steering clearance or order .475 SLW hubs.
I bought Tamiya LP-48 Sparkling Silver and then LP-52 Clear Red and LP-68 Clear Blue to try to replicate an anodized aluminum finish for the hose fittings. Why can't anybody make a silver that doesn't separate during painting? I have never found a silver that isn't constantly streaky or fighting to separate. This paint included. This is about as good as my lackluster paint skills get, but it looks good from far away. The Vanquish logo is also painted silver and then coated in clear red. It looks wet, but is completely dry.
Oh and Vanquish includes one of their awesome, red anodized caps for the fuel cell!
My plan was to coat the Power Tank (not a fire extinguisher) in silver and then coat it in blue for the anodized aluminum look, which is a color they offer, but after finding that the silver is streaky AF and painting clear over it with a brush isn't as easy as it seemed in my dim bulb, I decided to paint it with LP-40 Metallic Black instead. I wanted to do the fuel cell in this color as well, but again the paint was more of a pain than I expected so I'm not doing that. Really, these components should have been spray painted I guess. The valve is painted silver and the knob got clear red over it. You can really see the uneven lines up close in the photos, but not from arm's length.
Overall, it doesn't look too bad from far away, but I'm not looking forward to painting the interior.
I took time painting the radiator silver and you can barely see it. Doh! I also think the manual is wrong at the step showing installation of the radiator. You can't use these holes. The radiator is too wide. You have to use the holes above the ones shown.
Up next is wheels and tars! My favorite!
The Trepadors seem to be the go-to tire for this rig because they are slightly larger in diameter than the average 1.9 XL tire. And I mean slightly. This is the 4.9" / 124mm Trepador on the left vs a 4.75" / 121mm KM3 on the right.
I mounted one Trepador to the TSS Stockerz wheels to observe the clearance at full steering lock. Sadly, these wheels do not even fit over the knuckle weights!
It's a sign of the age of these wheels as knuckle weights weren't a thing or at least not a big thing back then. We still put lead wheel balancing weights on the RC wheels.Earlier in the night, I went on a scavenger hunt in my house and attached garage. My order history on the Vanquish website showed that I ordered a pair of 1.9 Machete V2 wheels. I wondered why I would only order two wheels. So my plan was to find the 2 and order 2 more. Well low and behold, I found these in my garage. Four brand new Proline 1.9 KM3 tires mounted to four brand new Vanquish 1.9 Machete v2 wheels! Reminiscing in my dim bulb, I believe I got two of the Machetes on a deep sale since that's all that were in stock and then I decided to order the other two directly from Vanquish.
These beauties will have to suffice. I love these wheels. I just wish Vanquish would stop being stubborn and offer real clear anodizing instead of this matte finish!
Mmm! Me likey!
I installed a Fanquish hub which is close to a.350 SLW hub and these tires rub the lower links at full steering lock. So I have to either order high clearance links and turn them for steering clearance or order .475 SLW hubs.Mopar man
Rock Stacker
The painting details look great. The build is coming along nicely I really like these optics.
