IRIE Products

[Sr.Irie]

I am running the 1 million diff oil from Gravity racing.

 

[Generis]

Here's our install video using the IRIE bellcranks on a GCM Racing TowerPlate. It's great!

https://youtu.be/TYAUWT6tgA4

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/TYAUWT6tgA4?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Sr.Irie]

Thank you Sir "thumbsup"

There is no way I could of said it better myself

YOU THE MAN "A" 8)

 

[toyotatrucks83]

Thanks gcm for making that video. I always love seeing more product for the twin hammers. I think these are awesome rigs and with suport like this I think more people will give it a try.

 

[smog]

awesome! It helped a ton. Just need to pick up the proper servo horn and I am golden. Thx Irie and GCM for the cool products and for being cool to deal with.

Here's our install video using the IRIE bellcranks on a GCM Racing TowerPlate. It's great!

https://youtu.be/TYAUWT6tgA4

<IFRAME height=360 src="//www.youtube.com/embed/TYAUWT6tgA4?rel=0" frameBorder=0 width=640 allowfullscreen></IFRAME>

 

[smog]

Soo, I picked up the recommended servo horn tlr1555 23T for the Irie bell crank steering kit. According to the above GCM instructional video it should be compatible with the stock ball end that has the shorter thread. Unfortunately the ball end's thread diameter is too large to thread into or penetrate the servo horn. Did I miss something? Should i just drill out the horn and nut the ball end? Any insight would be appreciated Wanna be sure before I drill.

 

[knightsy]

I would drill and tap for the ball end (if you can) AND nut the ball end. My ball end pulled out of the horn!

 

[WesTX]

Any chance you can make a shock tower similar to the Derwood style to go with your rack? If so please PM me so I can order a steering rack and that.

Wes

 

[Sr.Irie]

Soo, I picked up the recommended servo horn tlr1555 23T for the Irie bell crank steering kit. According to the above GCM instructional video it should be compatible with the stock ball end that has the shorter thread. Unfortunately the ball end's thread diameter is too large to thread into or penetrate the servo horn. Did I miss something? Should i just drill out the horn and nut the ball end? Any insight would be appreciated Wanna be sure before I drill.

The way I do it is to use one of the push rods and ball ends that you toke off the cantilever suspension and do not use the stock ball ends and cups at all. GCM was showing the ball ends with the stock servo arm. With the Losi arm and my steering or my GCM kit you can use the regular ball ends and rods that are everywhere else on the truck.

Picture of mine


Hope this helps

 

[Sr.Irie]

Could not sleep so I made this.
It is like a commercial and I have been trying to figure a way to use this footage anyhow. :ror:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/J28rCzV019c" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[WesTX]

St Irie, any word on if you could build what I am asking about above?

Wes

 

[Sr.Irie]

St Irie, any word on if you could build what I am asking about above?

Wes

Well I know I could and if you are a patient man I may be able to, but right now any spare time I have not producing kits and keeping up with orders. I am working on some new stuff and redesigning some old. I do this as a hobby so to start with I do not have allot of time allotted to it.

I can see what I can do, what shocks did you want to run.

Oh and sorry missed the first post I over looked it.

 

[smog]

The way I do it is to use one of the push rods and ball ends that you toke off the cantilever suspension and do not use the stock ball ends and cups at all. GCM was showing the ball ends with the stock servo arm. With the Losi arm and my steering you can use the regular ball ends and rods that are everywhere else on the truck.

Picture of mine


Hope this helps

I was poking around and noticed this on a few rigs. The collar of the stock servo arm ball cups were actually rubbing on the underside of the GCM tower plate as well. I used a dremmel to sand it to a lower profile but by the time I had decent clearance the collar was wafer thin on the one side. Not an acceptable condition for running IMO.

Thanks for the replies guys.

 

[Generis]

Mine is clearing everywhere just fine, and I'm using the stock ball cups for the drive rod also.
Keep in mind that a servo change will mess this around a bit also. I'm still using the stock servo, although it has just died, and everything was fitting perfectly with stock parts an stock servo. With the servo change, the horn position is slightly different now, and I may have to either move the servo back a bit or change the horn now to make everything work out clean.

 

[toyotatrucks83]

St Irie. If you do ever start making the derwood style front shock uprights count me in for one or two. My derwood ones are getting bent and bent back constantly. I don't know how much longer they will hold up. And I know I mentioned before, your steering kit seems to be more stout than the derwood kit. I bent the derwood steering but not yours. So maybe your aluminum is better or just that little extra thickness is helping a lot.
If needed for R&D I can send you one of my derwood uprights. Thanks. I know your busy. Just trying to help out if I can.
Also I'm using stock scx10 shocks with limited up travel with those uprights.

 

[WesTX]

Well I know I could and if you are a patient man I may be able to, but right now any spare time I have not producing kits and keeping up with orders. I am working on some new stuff and redesigning some old. I do this as a hobby so to start with I do not have allot of time allotted to it.

I can see what I can do, what shocks did you want to run.

Oh and sorry missed the first post I over looked it.

I am wanting to run some Gmade Piggyback shocks I think. I am not real big on the straight up shocks on an IFS setup for tuning, dunno why, maybe its just the looks. I dont know.

Looks like I am not the only one, Toyota needs them as well (which is where i got my inspiration for my twin hammers).

Wes

 

[Sr.Irie]

Laying the shocks over is of course possible the reasons I did not do this is (without getting to in-depth).

1: Performance; the more the shock is laid over past the arc of the A arm it looses effectives. Which in turn you then must run heavier springs and thicker oil to accomplish the same spring rate and dampening. Tuning becomes more finicky the further a shock is laid over as well, because the farther the shock is laid over the less of the shocks travel is used for the A arm to move the same distance. In crawling it is not as critical because you are moving slow. Although when speeds rise the shock can not do its job as effectively and the tire leaves contact with the ground and handling suffers. The Twin Hammers does not have allot of travel in the front to begin with. So I tried to use what the Twin Hammers has to its fullest.

2: Modifying; to lay the shock over you must cut out the structure that supports the front end. If you would like to use the G-Made XD piggyback shocks (which are my favorite) laid over, even more must been cut out to clear the reservoir on the shock.

With all that said I will see what I can do if this is what people would like. I just like to go fast and crawl so I am trying to get the best of both worlds. On the plus side the shocks would be more protected.

 

[toyotatrucks83]

I agree with you irie. I've just prefered the look and the protectability of buggy style. The straight ones like yours, bmrc, and gcm look great also. They just stick the mount and the shock way out there to get bent by crashes and roll overs. I'm actually thinking of going back to the lay down shock for the TH I built with full indepent suspension just to keep shocks and mounts covered by the flex able body. Like I mentioned. I'm bending the Derwood style with my crashes even being inboard like they are.
One problem I'm havin is I can't use lay down shocks with your steering kit which I love. I don't expect you to address all these concerns. I know that I have a very custom build that requires custom parts for just my application. Supply and demand. I'm hoping to get something reproducible for this rear independent suspension. But I don't have high hopes. It requires a lot of parts. Just the extra factory parts are totaling up to over $80. And that is just of the parts I know the cost of.

 

[WesTX]

Protection is big for me as well. I am also concerned with the straight up mounts for the reasons toyota pointed out with bending and such. I tend to go way too fast way too much and that means more and more wrecks.

Let me know if you think you could come up with something.

Wes

 

[smog]

Mine is clearing everywhere just fine, and I'm using the stock ball cups for the drive rod also.
Keep in mind that a servo change will mess this around a bit also. I'm still using the stock servo, although it has just died, and everything was fitting perfectly with stock parts an stock servo. With the servo change, the horn position is slightly different now, and I may have to either move the servo back a bit or change the horn now to make everything work out clean.

I think you nailed it man! I am not on the stock servo, I am working with the kit. Thx for the input, you put some polish on my greeness.