How to: Building custom width Twin/Mad Force axle

[_BEN_]

Only if you can find some really deep offset wheels.

A rough measurement would put these axles (unmodified with only narrow sides) at about 11" from the outer side of one hex to another hex. raptorman57 will be able to confirm or offer a more accurate # when he gets to this.

I'm still waiting on parts so I have not bothered assembling them yet. I was just measuring pieces.

With the correct length dog bones you can shorten them quite easily. The axles are just one tube that slides into another.

 

[rocktoy]

Ok thanks. Looks like I'm building a new set of axles soon"thumbsup"I can make the offset on the wheels whatever I want to a point by cutting the centers.

 

[_BEN_]

I would take your short dog-bones to your LHS and see if they have some that are a 1/2"~3/4" shorter.

Because shortening the axles will be easier and less tedious.

If you look in his post you can see that the offset is almost to the outer bead of the wheel.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76419

 

[Reflection]

So If I use 2 short side axles on one housing will that be within comp specs for 2.2 class width? You answered tons of my questions with this one post Raptorman"thumbsup" I'm sick of breaking TLT axles and dont want clods again.

Yes,2 shortside will get you within 2.2 specs.....if you use the correct backspacong on your wheels. You'll end up a hair over 12" wide. I think the width on my 2.2 Hustler is right at 12 1/8" or 12 1/4" The width is nice to a point but to wide for serious comp use. I'll do some digging and list up a few different dogbones you can use for different widths. I'll probably try a different width next season.

 

[rocktoy]

Thanks Raptorman. I'm going to try and use my current RC4wd beadlocks. If needed I'll mill the centers down and Tig a aluminum adadpter to them. Once the 12m hex section of the wheel is gone alot of the offset is as well.

 

[Reflection]

O.K. On the stock shortsides,I couldn't find a measurement listed. I'm not sure if they measure from pin to pin or end to end,so that figure might be off a touch either way. I measured pin to pin on the shortside and the longside length is stated in the owners manual. Here's the stock dogbone length.....

Long side-114mm or 4.48" long Measures 12" hex to hex

Shortside 85.8mm or 3.38" long Measures 11" hex to hex

For different width axles,heres a few options I've found.....

Ofna # 30320 -Length: 3.48" (88.45mm) .200" added overall width over 2 short side shafts

Ofna #18043 -Length: 92mm (3.63") .500" added overall width over 2 short side shafts

Ofna #17145 -Length: 79.4mm (3.13") .500" skinnier than 2 stock shortside shafts

Ofna #40028 -Length: 93 mm (3.66") .560" added overall width over 2 short side shafts

Ofna #36100 -Length: 3.5" (90mm) + 3.4" (86mm) .240" added overall width over 2 short side shafts

HPI #86152 -Length: 3.3" (83mm) .160" skinnier than 2 stock shortside shafts

HPI #86151 -Length: 3" (77mm) .760" skinnier than 2 stock shortside shafts

HPI #A553 -Length: 61.7mm (2.43") 1.9" skinnier than 2 stock shortside shafts

HPI #86036 -Length: 57.2mm (2.255") 2.250 skinnier than 2 stock shortside shafts

HPI #86057 -Length: 3.307" (78mm) .146" skinnier than 2 stock shortside shafts

HPI #86233 -Length: 57mm (2.24") 2.280" skinnier than 2 stock shortside shafts

If you are looking for an offset diff,you could use 2 of these different length bones to get that. On some of these,there might be a chance you'll have to drive the pin out and sand the ball down a hair. I've not seen all of these in person and can't be for sure on that. I know that Savage dogbones need that to fit in the drive cups and stubs. They will however work and provide a very wide stance. They are longer than the factory longsides;-)

Oh,theres probably allot more options out there,so feel free to dig some if you like.

 

[rocktoy]

Dam:shock:

Thanks Raptorman.

 

[_BEN_]

Thanks for the list.

Another note on the savage drive shafts. Yes the diameter is too big to fit the kyosho drive cups. But the HPI savage drive cups also fit the Kyosho diffs. So if you dont want to sand the dog bones you have another option.

I know this because I used a savage suspension on a truggy project I was doing years ago. Before Truggies were commercially avaible.

MP 7.5 Kanai, RB WS7, Custom Savage Suspension swap.

Imagestation is going bye bye so I don't know how much longer this image will be hosted.

 

[clarkrw3]

anyone know widths of CVD's with 8mm hubs??

 

[_BEN_]

I have a pretty simple/accurate idea that involves brazing. This should allow you to cut your dogbones to length.

Once I get my project started I will document how and if it works.

I still have some shopping and waiting for parts before I will start. Pretty much it is the waiting that is holding me back.

 

[Reflection]

anyone know widths of CVD's with 8mm hubs??

From the searching that I've done,there's only a couple different widths if you run a CVD or universal type axle. One is a hair wider that 2 shortsides and one is right at the same as 2 longsides. There might be more,not sure on that though.

If you can find a CVD or universal type axle thats a different width,post it up. As far as I know,if it's for an 1:8 scale buggy,it'll work.

I'm waiting on parts right now. Soon,I'll be doing a full write up on how to build a set of Twin axles that'll be comp ready/worthy. You'll be able to do a 360 degree turn in roughly 2 feet with an 18" wheelbase"thumbsup",on top of having bomb proof parts,full link mounts and servo mounts ready for nearly any chassis set up you want to run.8)

 

[BeeRC]

How to: Building custom width Twin/Mad Force axle

That will be very interesting and quite helpful. Hope to see it posted up soon.

Can you do one how-to for stock wide side axle setups, and another for stock short side axle setups?


This is off the main subject I know, but for scaler projects using Twin Force axles, what's your take on running chassis mounted steering servo/s with axle mounted steering bellcranks for the linkage for more realism?

 

[Reflection]

That will be very interesting and quite helpful. Hope to see it posted up soon.

Can you do one how-to for stock wide side axle setups, and another for stock short side axle setups?


This is off the main subject I know, but for scaler projects using Twin Force axles, what's your take on running chassis mounted steering servo/s with axle mounted steering bellcranks for the linkage for more realism?

The axles I'm gonna be building will be nearly the same width as 2 short sides. I'll try to provide part numbers for different widths. Keep in mind,the different widths will effect the turning radius. Wider axles won't turn as sharp;-)......well,with these mods,they might still yet:twisted::twisted:

On the steering....take a close look at the pics towards the end of this page....2.2 Twin Force.......You can kinda see how I got it set up. Worked like a champ. Not really scale but might spark an idea. I like using bell cranks. Great way to work around things and adjust the speed/throw of things. Won't add torque though. I'm currently using a bell crank to run my brake on my 2.2 Hustler. Allows me to run one servo and it'll opperate both my disconnect and my brake. Look in my 2.2 Hustler thread for pics.

 

[BeeRC]

How to: Building custom width Twin/Mad Force axle

Just wondering Steve, have you had a chance to make any progress on your axle how-to write ups?

 

[Reflection]

still waiting on the parts from the machine shop. Patience o little one:lol: Good things come to those who wait:lol:

 

[666]

Skippy made a set that are as narrow as a TLT axle, it involved some brazing and some PVC tubing I believe....

 

[_BEN_]

The axles I'm gonna be building will be nearly the same width as 2 short sides. I'll try to provide part numbers for different widths. Keep in mind,the different widths will effect the turning radius. Wider axles won't turn as sharp;-)......well,with these mods,they might still yet:twisted::twisted:

Have you made any ground on these?

I am currently piecing together a set too. It should be the same length as two short sides if not narrower.

My parts list:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=260167704764&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=016
X2 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...sid=m37&satitle=260168057898&category0=&fvi=1
http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/mercha...de=bearings&Product_Code=kit825&Category_Code=

I have two other ideas to make shortened axles.
-Take a kyosho dog bone. Cut it half and trim it to your desired length. Slip a piece of 5mm inner diameter steel tube over your two stubs. Then braze them together.
Something like this.

I would have the ends touching in the center I just left a space there so you could tell that there is a joint.

-My other idea involves CVD's and is pretty simple too. If my MGT set up is still too wide for my liking Ill use the unused parts from my set up (the long axles). I guess I will have to wait and see. 8) Edit:This may work with regular dog bones (I think) Requiring only one simple part to be made.

Ben

 

[RCMFMaxxMan]

digging this one up...
so i have never really ran my mad force and i have had it for like 5 years now haha. but someday! soooomeday i will get it up anyways, I was looking at my axles that i had started narrowing (cut down the diff housing) and noticed that the knuckle carrier will NOT slide into the shortened housing! Upon further examination it appears that on a stock housing (uncut), right after the knuckle carrier slides all the way in, the housing's wall thickness gradually increases slightly as it approaches the diff. So the inner diameter at this point is too small to fit the knuckle carrier :-( So the question is, how do you deal with this!? or is this only the case for mad force specific axles? are twin force axles not tapered like this? I was under the impression that the only difference in the axle housings between the two trucks was the addition of the shock mounts at the knuckle of the TF axle...

 

[Reflection]

I used to do it two ways. Either cut a little off the smaller diameter side of the hub carrier,or,sand on the smaller section some with sandpaper. It's still a tight fit,but will go in.

I never had access to a lathe back then,so that was the best way I could figure. A lathe would be the best way if you have access to one.

 

[Bart bender]

Go to SuperShafty.com and get everything you need. Parts and how to video"thumbsup"