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Help building my Krazed Un-stuck crawler

If your starting from scratch and don't have any VP stuff, it is cheaper to go with VP C's and Dlux brass knuckles, from the get go.

Absolutely. Although my other rigs sure appreciate the trickle down upgrades I'm sure. :lol:


If starting from zero I've taken always recommend 8mm stubs with the dlux knuckles. The shafts can be upgraded to FBA later if needed but going 8mm from the start is stronger and easier to deal with.
 
Forgot to add the photo lol.

I'm waiting on a micro receiver to free up some room and some regular dean plugs and some micro ones. Want to take off those huge traxxas plugs on the batteries and install a micro plug on the Bec so I can update the Bec easier and swap out faster.

I redid my upper links and need to try it out after I get my wiring all done.



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Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
 
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What's the deal with rule 2.5.2? Thought it was from front axle shaft to rear axle shaft? Am I looking at the right class for me?

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Forgot to mention this. As some may have seen in previous photos before i decided to redo the lay out, I had all my servo/wires bunched up in a ball. My OCD doesn't allow such things lol so I needed to find away to fix it. I see a few people cut the wire shorter and reattach somewhere in the middle. Wanted to do it differently. I never had a need to do it before but now that I have a crawler I do and I found a way I like.

http://www.rchelisite.com/how_to_crimp_servo_plugs.php

For people that don't like too or don't feel they or good at it I find it personally easier to solder pins then to join two wire ends. I practiced enough were I can do both but others may find this way easier.

EDIT TO ADD
A member recommended and gave me contact info for Member Purptr8r for my tire needs. Communicated on phone with him. Highly recommend him. Especially to new people like myself that or clueless on modified tires. He knows his stuff and will take the time to explain your options and give recommendations. Doesn't cost that much more to have a modified set of tires made compared to using them out of the bag in stock form.
 
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Forgot to mention this. As some may have seen in previous photos before i decided to redo the lay out, I had all my servo/wires bunched up in a ball. My OCD doesn't allow such things lol so I needed to find away to fix it. I see a few people cut the wire shorter and reattach somewhere in the middle. Wanted to do it differently. I never had a need to do it before but now that I have a crawler I do and I found a way I like.

http://www.rchelisite.com/how_to_crimp_servo_plugs.php

For people that don't like too or don't feel they or good at it I find it personally easier to solder pins then to join two wire ends. I practiced enough were I can do both but others may find this way easier.

EDIT TO ADD
A member recommended and gave me contact info for Member Purptr8r for my tire needs. Communicated on phone with him. Highly recommend him. Especially to new people like myself that or clueless on modified tires. He knows his stuff and will take the time to explain your options and give recommendations. Doesn't cost that much more to have a modified set of tires made compared to using them out of the bag in stock form.


Def recommend Purp for tire help. My first set of Voodoos I narrowed and came out good. I got a set from him and he definitely has a better touch for doing them. I get all my narrowed voodoos from him now!


Its nice having a clean wired rig especially come clean up time or tear down. Nothing is worse then clamming around a rats nest trying to resolve an electrical gremlin when you got spaghetti wires all over lol.

Trucks coming together nicely - cant wait to see it this season "thumbsup"
 
Update:

Got my pins in early and had time so I wired everything up. This is how I had everything at first.

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After looking at it, I figured it was dumb to have the heavy battery up top and the lighter bec below, so I swapped them.

Next I couldn't stand looking at that big ball of plastic on the tray and it was hitting on the front body post when the suspension was fully compressed. So I moved the receiver to the upper side of the steering servo with 30pound double sided tape. I put it level with the top of the servo horn. I'm hoping it stays lol. Let me know of any better ideas on how the layout should be.

I finally found larger size heat wrap tubing, the tape is temporary, waiting for the tubing to come in mail.

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Looks good! I'd mount the bec somewhere other than on the battery, that will get annoying having to deal with it at every battery change and eventually the wires going to the circuit board will break solder joints and you'll end up chasing a gremlin. Been there... Will the battery not fit under the plate? I'd even look to add a plate between the upper links to mount the electronic bundle to if possible. I know I've seen plates like that before.

When you get new upper links I'd get the rear about 3/16" longer to bring the driveline up above the rear links.

You can shorten the motor leads a lot too. Run them down the opposite side of the spur and connect to the motor directly like this. I also made a plate to mount my fxr and receiver to. The bec is under the plate up next to the servo out of harms way.
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Looks good! I'd mount the bec somewhere other than on the battery, that will get annoying having to deal with it at every battery change and eventually the wires going to the circuit board will break solder joints and you'll end up chasing a gremlin. Been there... Will the battery not fit under the plate? I'd even look to add a plate between the upper links to mount the electronic bundle to if possible. I know I've seen plates like that before.

When you get new upper links I'd get the rear about 3/16" longer to bring the driveline up above the rear links.

You can shorten the motor leads a lot too. Run them down the opposite side of the spur and connect to the motor directly like this. I also made a plate to mount my fxr and receiver to. The bec is under the plate up next to the servo out of harms way.
20170108_151902_zpsvcquhq3k.jpg
Thanks for the ideas. Will look into it. If the battery won't fit under the link plate, what do you think about mounting my battery like you have yours?

Also the Bec is held in place by double sided tape but I agree it may move a little over time and break leads.

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Can you mount the bec infront of the servo under the plate? The steering would protect it. Or on the underside of the esc plate above the drive shaft output bearing? Dont know how low you have the plate mounted.


Agree on the rear upper links .... little longer just to roll the rear back some and pick up the driveshaft.

Rumor has it CT's spring opener is already scheduled for April ...... think we'll get to see it debut? "thumbsup"
 
Can you mount the bec infront of the servo under the plate? The steering would protect it. Or on the underside of the esc plate above the drive shaft output bearing? Dont know how low you have the plate mounted.


Agree on the rear upper links .... little longer just to roll the rear back some and pick up the driveshaft.

Rumor has it CT's spring opener is already scheduled for April ...... think we'll get to see it debut? "thumbsup"
I think so! Thanks for the suggestion. I also think I'll leave the battery in the front under the main plate and move bec to your suggested location. Battery has weight I'd like to keep on the front axle the more I think about it.

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So much cleaner this way. Thanks!

Just need to shorten the motor wires now.

Do I have to use the Holmes harness to direct power servo? Or can I feed the Bec wire into the bat slot on the receiver? Says receiver can handle 4.8 to 7.4 volts. I ask cause the harness takes up space.

Edit to add- nevermind found away to keep the harness out of the way

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Looking good man"thumbsup"

A lot of good ideas being tossed at you. One thing I saw was your rear links at the axle. With my links in that location my rear would come over on descents. So if that becomes a problem that's a remedy to it.
 
A lot of good ideas being tossed at you. One thing I saw was your rear links at the axle. With my links in that location my rear would come over on descents. So if that becomes a problem that's a remedy to it.


I was gonna say something about that too .... mine did the same thing.

I could have just thrown weight on the rear but figured there was a better way to tune so put them on top.
 
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