lonewolf8o
Pebble Pounder
I see a couple of guys running carbon fiber upper links. What size diameter and do you glue the rod ends on?
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Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
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Help building my Krazed Un-stuck crawler
- Thread starter lonewolf8o
- Start date
snapon boy
I wanna be Dave
Pm Nerby 149
lonewolf8o
Pebble Pounder
I don't want to bother him yet, since I'm not sure i want to go that route. I'm assuming he makes them? Interested in getting info on how there made and the benefits. I'm assuming ones light weight and the other is running a thinner link for more clearance around other parts. Other reasons?
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Weights all I see, theyre just as thick as the Ti uppers I run so Id say 3/16 OD.
I had some on the front of my shafty last season, never had a problem or seen anyone break any. If you're counting grams I think they're worth it. I personally like the option of bending a Ti link vs snapping a graphite one if I get a little jammed up.
I had some on the front of my shafty last season, never had a problem or seen anyone break any. If you're counting grams I think they're worth it. I personally like the option of bending a Ti link vs snapping a graphite one if I get a little jammed up.
lonewolf8o
Pebble Pounder
From this figure I figured the bottom one was 3/16 and the top one thinner?
Edit to add: Didn't notice till now in that photo, but does he pin them to the rod ends?
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Last edited:
snapon boy
I wanna be Dave
Super glue maby
From this figure I figured the bottom one was 3/16 and the top one thinner?
Edit to add: Didn't notice till now in that photo, but does he pin them to the rod ends?
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OOps, you're right ..... didnt have my coffee this morning. :shock:
its 1/8 upper
I believe with just regulr 2part epoxy. The set i have were done with some cross pin, Ive seen them just epoxied in though.
lonewolf8o
Pebble Pounder
Moved my rear lower shocks outwards. Going to test it today. Was thinking of doing the front but looks like I'll have interference with the tires went turning. The people that have moved them outwards, did you move the fronts outwards too? Will I get the benefits of only doing the rear?
On a second note if your running SDI drive shafts you should think of inspecting the part that slides in and out threw travel. I notice mine was sticking a little and putting resistance on my suspension movement. I did a little light filing and polishing to smooth it out. Now the suspension acts the same if the shaft was on or off.
On a third note I highly recommend Prolink chain lube for the moving parts in the drive shafts and universals. I mountain bike ride and swear by this stuff. Lubes and doesn't attract dirt like other lubes.
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On a second note if your running SDI drive shafts you should think of inspecting the part that slides in and out threw travel. I notice mine was sticking a little and putting resistance on my suspension movement. I did a little light filing and polishing to smooth it out. Now the suspension acts the same if the shaft was on or off.
On a third note I highly recommend Prolink chain lube for the moving parts in the drive shafts and universals. I mountain bike ride and swear by this stuff. Lubes and doesn't attract dirt like other lubes.
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I moved them out on the front and back. The little bit of rubbing on the shock wont hurt or take away any steering. IMO this adds stability to the truck and gives the shock a smoother suspension travel. Don't know if you have checked out my build thread but it has some good info on setting up this chassis
lonewolf8o
Pebble Pounder
For the reasons you and Stuck mentioned. I feel I won't learn what I like as far as handling if I don't try it to compare, also to see how the truck responds to different setups.
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lonewolf8o
Pebble Pounder
Thanks for the info. I'm not sure if I saw your build thread, I have four others bookmarked but don't believe I saw yours. Do you have a link?
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WHITE-TRASH
I wanna be Dave
My front lowers are inboard of the mounts and the shocks are in the mount on the same screw. My rear shocks are out boarded and the links are in the mount using the same screw. With so much steering I had to inboard the front lowers or add massive spacers to clear the tires.
lonewolf8o
Pebble Pounder
That's what my front looks like locked to one side. I'm basically using the vanquish knuckles as steering stops since I get enough steering to turn it till it contacts the weights both ways. So I'm not sure if I'll be able to outbound the fronts unless I try it guess.
On a different note it's 35 degrees today and I'm wondering if any testing I do is invalid due to shock oil feeling a lot thicker and tires and rocks being so cold. Wondering if the truck handles very differently in 35 degree temps then 75 degree Temps if everything else remained the same? What have you guys found?
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WHITE-TRASH
I wanna be Dave
Silicon fluid is temperature stable between - 50C to + 150C. it won't matter. The tires on the other hand will change a bit but there is no reason to not go crawling. :mrgreen: I'm headed to go snow crawling this afternoon. No rocks to play on so wtf, why not? :lol:
If you use the offset P looking ends on the bottom ends of the shocks and use them to move the shock forward it will help clear the tires at full lock.
If you use the offset P looking ends on the bottom ends of the shocks and use them to move the shock forward it will help clear the tires at full lock.
lonewolf8o
Pebble Pounder
Was working on making my permanent drag link and ran into some problems lol. I originally noticed with the servo horn on it never sat at a perfect 90 degree angle at center. Id move the arm over one tooth and it would be off on the other side. It sat at the green line, where I wanted it to sit at the yellow to have equal throw in both directions.
I ended up having to set a lot of trim on one side to have it centered at rest (which took away some throw) and opening up the end point adjustments on the controller all the way (120 on one side) to just reach lock out. I wanted to address the issue since I was making the drag link. First I opened up the servo thinking I could offset the gear a few degrees but learned fast the sensor underneath the gear always makes it go back to where it was set. Next I noticed the plastic wheel on my 3pl transmitter had stops so I filed those off to learn that just opens it up as if I set end point adjustment to 120 so that was pointless. I thought worse case the wheel is easily replaceable but I am having a really hard time finding a replacement one now that I'm looking for one.
I've come to the conclusion I need to order a hitec servo programmerI and I can go with shorter steering arms then the extended ones on it now to get more throw. Is this correct? Suggestions?
BTW, or the wheels on the transmitters interchangeable? I found a wheel that fits the 4pk, will that fit the my 3pl also?
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I ended up having to set a lot of trim on one side to have it centered at rest (which took away some throw) and opening up the end point adjustments on the controller all the way (120 on one side) to just reach lock out. I wanted to address the issue since I was making the drag link. First I opened up the servo thinking I could offset the gear a few degrees but learned fast the sensor underneath the gear always makes it go back to where it was set. Next I noticed the plastic wheel on my 3pl transmitter had stops so I filed those off to learn that just opens it up as if I set end point adjustment to 120 so that was pointless. I thought worse case the wheel is easily replaceable but I am having a really hard time finding a replacement one now that I'm looking for one.
I've come to the conclusion I need to order a hitec servo programmerI and I can go with shorter steering arms then the extended ones on it now to get more throw. Is this correct? Suggestions?
BTW, or the wheels on the transmitters interchangeable? I found a wheel that fits the 4pk, will that fit the my 3pl also?
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WHITE-TRASH
I wanna be Dave
Centered probably won't give you full throw one direction or the other. Find its happy place and make the drag link accordingly. All of mine are off towards the knuckle the drag link connects to since that's what makes it go 70* both ways.
lonewolf8o
Pebble Pounder
Finally got around to making my permanent drag link. I also made a shield to protect my bec out of scraps of lexan from previous bodies I've cut out and also got another two bodies to try out on my rig on a impulse buy lol.
I'm glad I got the servo programmer cause it let me set perimeters I wasn't previously able too such as allowing more end point travel and making center where I want it. You can also change speed and another thing I liked and lowered was sensitivity by one notch so I don't have to hear or drain the battery as much with the servo constantly correcting center.
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I'm glad I got the servo programmer cause it let me set perimeters I wasn't previously able too such as allowing more end point travel and making center where I want it. You can also change speed and another thing I liked and lowered was sensitivity by one notch so I don't have to hear or drain the battery as much with the servo constantly correcting center.
Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
