• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Help building my Krazed Un-stuck crawler

Glad you got it figured out! Did you find the servo programmer easy to use?

Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk
 
icculus said:
Glad you got it figured out! Did you find the servo programmer easy to use?

Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I had three hitec programmers to choose from that work with the Hitec 7000 series servos for full reprogramming. They can all test all other servos but may not be able to change their settings. The pc one only which is the cheapest one which is what I got. Then one that looks like mine but has a knob on it so you can do adjustments in the field or with pc (both require a 4.5 or 6 volt independent battery source to power the servo) ( can be more volts as long as the servo is rated to handle it). Finally the most expensive one that has its own battery system inside to power (also rechargeable I believe) and a built in screen so no pc is required for field use.

I figured since I use my laptop for all my castle/Holmes esc programing and knowing how simple it is having it on a big screen I'd do the same for my servo programming. I feel servo programming is something I would set up and do some fine tuning on then never adjust it again. So why spend the extra money to deal with a knob and blinking lights (middle one) or the small screen on the most expensive one. I'm thinking the field ones or more for guys with planes that may adjust things more often based on conditions but that's just my theory lol. You will have to buy a separate battery source as I mentioned. I went with a simple 4 cell receiver that holds standard AA batteries and came with the jack already on to plug right in to the programmer. Here's a pick of the one I used (model # on bottom of photo).

The one I have was easy to work with on my PC btw.

12b49591bd5d18d48ba6969b68e9fb15.jpg


d8c11d2296bdb1d9cccceb8326912ac6.jpg


Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Finished both bodies. Unfortunately I can't test either on my back yard course. I took it down since we're moving in the beginning of April to PA.

a3a19daef3d3f62f0257f3417850bd98.jpg
08ecbaa73fff03723a38eb5414d7f557.jpg
e9c10682d2ed1ced704856d0d6accd88.jpg
1bd35866e58dbefdcd7a714910c2b562.jpg
b580d7df56c2c1993a8a7cf1a6319a3d.jpg


Both bodies fit the same truck. I made a extra rear body post assy that's set up to work with the other body.

Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks guys. The painting part I need to work on lol, I'm happy with my trimming work though.

Most likely Bethlehem but possibly more north around the Stroudsburg area if I can find work around there.

You around either of those areas?



Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
 
Damn, I had it in mind to use Ar60s for my sporty but this build makes me want AX10s now. Great looking little truck. Also, check out EPARCC, you'll be close to those guys.
 
That's 2hrs from me.. you will actually be right in the area, of all our club comps!
Lucky guy!!!
I'm in Williamsport.

East PA RC rock crawlers, EPA..
 
Nice paint! Fade looks great, and the losi body looks super sharp. Whenever/if you have a spare moment, would you please provide me with an eye to eye measurement on your front and rear upper links? Ordering ti, want to make sure i get enough, and to have a starting point. I appreciate the help, and thank you!
 
icculus said:
Nice paint! Fade looks great, and the losi body looks super sharp. Whenever/if you have a spare moment, would you please provide me with an eye to eye measurement on your front and rear upper links? Ordering ti, want to make sure i get enough, and to have a starting point. I appreciate the help, and thank you!
Click to expand...


Thanks,

I can get you the measurements later but want to mention something first that may help you since I'm not sure where you are in your build.

If you haven't made any upper links yet I'd strongly suggest starting with 8-32 fully threaded rod to start with (which I still have on mine). It's cheap and easily screws into the rod ends. You can make multiple length ones and try out different lengths till you find what you like and will cost you very little. After you settle on something after trying a few different lengths then you can use the good stuff (titanium, carbon, aluminum ect). One thing you have to remember and it's something I learned, every little adjustment made changes something else down the line. You have to find a balance that works for what your trying to do. What made it easier for me was to setup pinion angle first where I wanted it in the front and back and make the upper links to accommodate that. From there you can shorten or lengthen the uppers a few mm's till you find your sweet spot. I feel there's way to many variables (what mounting holes you choose to use, shock length, the angle you mount your shocks, what mounting plates you use in the front and back axles ect) to say what length you need.

Id install you lower links, axles and shocks where you think you would like them on you chassis and eye ball pinion angle to where you want it and make your first cheap upper set and see how you like it and tinker around with the length from there to see if everything works together nicely threw out your range of suspension movement and how the truck handles.

As far as pinion angle to start with, I've heard from a few people you want the back pointing up alittle so it doesn't catch on stuff. I have mine at a angle where a rock is more likely to hit and slid up my rear lower links and not from a pinion angle to low that it sticks out past the lower links and catches stuff. My front I'm using a desTroy plate and wanted the plate to be mostly level with the ground so the pinion angle is only very slightly pointing up.

Pinon angle can change threw suspension movement depending on what length you choose and mounting points. My current setup keeps my angles the same threw travel. But I plan on trying some things after I move and have a better playground to test different setups hence why I still have my cheap upper links on.

Finally I'm very new to all this so take everything I say with a grain of salt lol. There or others here with vast more knowledge on this studf then me. I'm only telling you what I felt gave me a starting point to work off of. I'm continually learning more here from others and reading and every time I take the truck out for a spin.

If you still want those measurements I'll try and get them for you later today.

Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
New or not .... every bit of info helps some one down the road. "thumbsup"

Ive actually been thinking about pushing my shocks out farther after seeing yours. You got me thinking on it for my next practice ;-)


Sad we're losing ya out of the RI/MA/CT area but PA isnt that far "thumbsup"
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

N
SCX24 stock parts performer .
Replies
3
Views
494
JimrC
JimrC
J
My capra "build"
Replies
0
Views
441
Jefferson87
J
T
"Transing" the LOSI Promoto MX into Making MX Gr8 Again
Replies
17
Views
354
Timmahh
T
grob23
Grob's AR60 build
2
Replies
22
Views
2K
grob23
grob23
8
No.89 Element VW build
2
Replies
25
Views
1K
89Industries
8
Back
Top