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Help building my Krazed Un-stuck crawler

I run lots of vertical separation and a bit of rear weight to keep the rear in check on decents. I'm going to build a piece to go in the dlux truss to move the rear uppers up a bit higher at the axle and shorten them a bit so they aren't behind the axle as they are now. Figure it can't hurt anything to try. :mrgreen:

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I'm going to build a piece to go in the dlux truss to move the rear uppers up a bit higher at the axle and shorten them a bit so they aren't behind the axle as they are now. Figure it can't hurt anything to try. :mrgreen:

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My moneys on you liking it better lol. Ive tried it on both my rigs and things always felt funky when I was past axle center on the top links.


Edit: I think Hulkster makes a rear upper mount for the AR60's thats adjustable .... I remember seeing someone that made a delri piece that bolted to the front side then the CF fin came up. Could be/work better for what your thinking?
 
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Looking good man"thumbsup"

A lot of good ideas being tossed at you. One thing I saw was your rear links at the axle. With my links in that location my rear would come over on descents. So if that becomes a problem that's a remedy to it.
So I understand right, you guys are saying to put the upper rear link ends above the rear plate, not under like they r now if my rear flips over on steep descents?

Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
 
My moneys on you liking it better lol. Ive tried it on both my rigs and things always felt funky when I was past axle center on the top links.


Edit: I think Hulkster makes a rear upper mount for the AR60's thats adjustable .... I remember seeing someone that made a delri piece that bolted to the front side then the CF fin came up. Could be/work better for what your thinking?

I'm not unhappy with the performance as is but as we know it can always be better. I'll take a look at what hulksta has and maybe copy it if it's better than the design I have in my head. I'm not afraid to build things and have some ugly bits as long as they're functional. I came into this hobby fabrimuhkaytin my own junk so I try not to prefab too much. :mrgreen:

So I understand right, you guys are saying to put the upper rear link ends above the rear plate, not under like they r now if my rear flips over on steep descents?


Exactly. Vertical separation makes stability easy to attain.
 
So I understand right, you guys are saying to put the upper rear link ends above the rear plate, not under like they r now if my rear flips over on steep descents?

Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk


For me I noticed it let the rear squat down better with them on top of the axle, letting the weight transfer and stay on the rear down hill.

With them under it seemed to keep the chassis jacked forward and wouldnt let the weight come back or stay back. The rear axle was really lite.
 
I finished laying everything out on the desTroy kit. Tires should be here tomorrow and the weather shouldn't be bad. So I'm hoping I'll be able to start running it soon.

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Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
 
Looking forward to hearing some feedback when you get out. Its looking great, and those DLUX lower links look really nice!

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https://traxxas.com/products/parts/7062

RC Bros should have the bladders there too. (I believe)

Question .... do you remember what length your front driveshaft is? I wanna downsize my MIP and would order one today.
I can do that for you today. How do u want me to measure? Take it off and measure fully closed and fully open and at what points?

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I can do that for you today. How do u want me to measure? Take it off and measure fully closed and fully open and at what points?

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Fully extended would work ... you remember what one you ordered or did you cut yours?

Appreciate it. "thumbsup"
 
Fully extended would work ... you remember what one you ordered or did you cut yours?

Appreciate it. "thumbsup"
PROPELLER SHAFT (5mm to 5mm) and yes I had to cut both front and rear down. You need measuring for both fully extended? Cause they were cut down at different lengths.

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PROPELLER SHAFT (5mm to 5mm) and yes I had to cut both front and rear down. You need measuring for both fully extended? Cause they were cut down at different lengths.

Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk

Nah just the front please and Thank you.
 
Update:

Got the tires on Thursday and have been running it all weekend. I'm amazed at what these things can crawl over lol. Was able to drive all over my old course in any direction without a problem. I had to pile more rocks around my course just to make it challenging again.

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Does you guys use the bladder in your shocks or do you let the air and oil mix? Also do you set them with some rebound? Curious since I've been running without them this weekend because I tore one when I over tightened the shock cap when I first built the shocks. The replacement bladders came in the mail today so I plan on trying the shocks now with bladders.

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I run with bladders and vented shock caps.

I try to build with zero rebound as I personally dont like it. Rebound to me feels like the shock is fighting the truck when compressed.


Looks good all rolling around "thumbsup"
 
Thanks for the inspiration! Chassis and desTroy plate in my hand. Thanks again for posting your build thread!
 
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