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I am not sure if this is what y'all have been waiting for, but here it is: My first filming and editing job. Kinda cheesy, but I was by myself and I am lacking driving skills - yet another thing to learn! Anyhow, enjoy!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3Cx87hCRADI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Man of ingenuity and creativity...wow I am blown away. Not only is it scale, replaceable parts easily available, it looks like it handles very realistically as well! Excellent job!

Thanks a lot! Yes you are right, it is all stock parts, easily replaced and it would just take ten minutes and it is back to stock Yeti. The only part that needed to be figured out, was the hinge in the back and the front body mount. And hey, I even found a use for the weak stock plastic links from my SCX10 - they are used to strengthen the rear body mounts - you can see them next to the fire extinguisher. "thumbsup"
 
I was asked, what it looks like under the body - how the cage and body is attached to the chassis.

Front: The Axial tall body post (AX80031) fits perfectly into the existing Yeti mount. Even better, the other end fits (almost) the SC8e cage. In fact, the slight tension of the post makes the cage snap in place. I could pick it up without the clips. This way, the tips of the post reach all the way through the body. And: You can adjust the distance between body and chassis better.










The rear:

I used a simple thick piece of styrene - will be exchanged for aluminum once it breaks. It is mounted to the rear chassis brace of the Yeti by using nylon cable clamps - they work great on these cages. Excuse my crappy hardware. Mounted it in a hurry to find out it actually works great.







In this shot you see the rear upside down. In the front center you can also see a left over part of some old cage that I used to mount the rear bumper. Left and right of the white plate you can see body posts that I attached horizontally. To strengthen them I used Axial plastic links that are attached to the roll cage on the other end. The aluminum plate serves as the tire rack:



Here are the body mounts on the side. The body also slides partly under the tires:






Oh, and last but not least: The black dust jacket on the inside of the cage is a simple plastic flower pot trimmed to fit ;-)
 
This build is taking shape big time. Nice work.

So question for you. Have you done anything to settle down the rear end? I am planning on doing a similar build, but the shock setup seams odd. I almost want a two stage like the pralines, but I do not want to have a short travel shock. Also seams that the angle of the shocks makes the rear end harsh on jumps, from what I am seeing.
 
Thanks, RickM. I am not sure what you mean with settle down the rear end. I used super firm springs and due to the weight of the two wheels in the back it handles a lot different from the stock Yeti. And I thought about a dual shock setup too. But I only have this one, therefore I don't know, how it could handle different. I think it is doing okay. My next major change will be the motor/ESC combo. I need a little more speed to get that heavy butt in the air ;-)
 
Update: I stretched the wheelbase with SSD's trailing arms and longer rod ends, Vanquish upper links. Changed the headlights (as if that would make a big difference, lol).
Well, that didn't work out very well ... now I am caught in that viscous upgrade cycle. Next: HD gears ... glad i didn't go 3s first.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UuCI2vnsNKE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Edit: Steel gears came in - I am back on the road! Hopefully the ordered 3s battery will be here before the holiday. Time to break more stuff! "thumbsup"
 
Here is a teaser:

teaser.jpg

We had lots of thunderstorms and rain here lately. The soil was just too muddy for a desert. But I got my new axle installed and went for a quick test run. Sounds like a clockwork now!
I will take a video again the next days - it's supposed to stay dry and hot for a while now. Perfect! And thank you for you interest ;-)
 
Wanted to do this tribute already for a while:

Olpc7ho.jpg




Original can be found and bought here:
race-dezert.com Store - 2015 Tavo Vildosola Mint 400 Poster
 
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Great thread Fxman... I'm working on putting an SC8 body on mine, although it won't be nearly as detailed as yours.

The only problem I've run into is that the my tires hit the fenders when the suspension compresses. I know the Dune T/A's are narrower than the tires I have now, but are your wheels a different width and/or offset than the stock ones?
 
Thanks dls1234. Maybe you mounted your body too low? Or you mounted the cage too low underneath it? I run stock wheels and yes Dune T/As are pretty small too. But mine was rubbing when fully compressed as well. So I got me the stiffest springs I could find and ended up using shock relocation plates once the springs were broken in. Mine is sitting at least 1/2 inch (almost 2 cm) higher than stock and I still need a stiffer setup - thinking about twin shocks - because the rear tucks in too much at full speed. Look at this:



 
I can try raising the body a little, but either way I'm gonna need to change tires. My current ones stick out about 1/4" past the fender lip.

Any chance you could measure the track width on the front of yours? Like from outer sidewall to outer sidewall?

3KT93q2.jpg
 
I can try raising the body a little, but either way I'm gonna need to change tires. My current ones stick out about 1/4" past the fender lip.

Any chance you could measure the track width on the front of yours? Like from outer sidewall to outer sidewall?

3KT93q2.jpg
You don't stick out nearly as far as I do bud and mine is fine
d2d437857efbe8bb8d3eba7a94cbdcbb.jpg
 
Trackwidth? No problem. It's stock wheels, stock hubs.
Outside to outside of wheels: 30,5 cm (12") - tires are slightly narrower than beadlock rims.
In between: 22,0 cm (8 2/3")

The body is 31 cm wide between the front fenders. Obviously you don't see the tires from top ;-) Did you use different hubs? Or did you use the rear ones in the front? Can't tell from that one picture...



 
Trackwidth? No problem. It's stock wheels, stock hubs.
Outside to outside of wheels: 30,5 cm (12") - tires are slightly narrower than beadlock rims.
In between: 22,0 cm (8 2/3")

The body is 31 cm wide between the front fenders. Obviously you don't see the tires from top ;-) Did you use different hubs? Or did you use the rear ones in the front? Can't tell from that one picture...


Stock hubs and wheels on mine. Mine measures 12.5" from outside to outside. My wheels are about even with the fenders just like yours, but my tires stick out more than the wheels, so I'm sure that's the problem. Gotta get some Dunes and I'll be good to go.
 
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